Paint Experts - Some Help
If your primer was sanded correctly then your base should always lay flat with no orange peel or raised areas or whatever you wanna call them. If your wet sanding a eurethane, the base is so thin you will take off most of what you just sprayed down and with having to recoat with the same amount to cover than your really just wasting materials and time or giving yourself peice of mind. I think we all know how much materials are these days. I bought a half pint of paint the other day and it was $50 and that is with a discount.
Have you ever painted a car before? You can spray over glass smooth primer and still get orange peel. Orange peel is a result of the solvents in the paint drying too quickly, period. Has little to nothing to do with the flatness of a panel; steel dose'nt have orange peel in it, it has waves so the OP isnt coming from the body. Primer is sanding down flat by using guide-coat and still, primer dose'nt get OP, it's too thin.
with the eurethane paint you can sand the clear after it dries and recoat with more clear and then sand that flat and buff. that will make a difference and make the color look deeper but not the base.
Again, the coats are as thick or as thin as you spray them, read the can. If 800 grit is not going to smooth it out, how do you expect that 2000 grit does? One coat of clear is the same thickness as one coat of color; you know why? because clear is colorless base. Clear coat is paint with no pigments in it to add color, acrylics for the gloss and a hardener or activator that is added separately. Not trying to flame you but how many cars and how long have you painted?
what is that lol primer is thick. Y2k high build primer will cover a 180 scratch. that is not thin and it is the least reduced out of any of base or clear. 3 coats of high build and i can guarentee that you will have orange peel.
clear is not base with no pigments in it.( Binder is base with no pigments in it.) If that was true then why do you not add a catalyst to the the base like you do the clear? dry times? it is a whole different chemical makeup than base. FYI I work in a paint shop and we paint 10-12 cars a day on a normal day. never have I seen anyone sand the base and we are using dupont paint.
I use ppg at the house. never sand the base then clear. I am not disagreeing that you shouldnt sand any imperfections out of the base and then rebase the car and then clear it im saying at the end of the day your still going to be spraying an unsanded coat of base over the top and not sanding it before clearing it if its a metallic paint or pearl or a threestage.
Im sure that you can sand a solid base and be fine without recoating but not metallic. If your taking all this time to wetsand the base and remasking everytime you get the car wet then your probably going to take the time to wetsand the clear and buff the entire job flat right.
nextime you paint a metal panel check it with a mill guage after you have primed it, then base the panel to the point you are happy with and check it again with a mil guage then clear the panel with two coats of clear and check again with a mil guage. I can bet that your two coats of clear are alot thicker than your 3-4 coats of base. half of the base you mix up is going to be a reducer and evaporate if your mixing the minimum 1-1 recomendation. I am not trying to flame you either sorry for the long posts. by the way as i stated far above im talking about eurethane paints (ex. PPG dbc line) btw have you used ppg 2060 matte clear? Im looking for info on the spraying characteristics
Last edited by TioSterling; Aug 7, 2008 at 07:20 PM.
what is that lol primer is thick. Y2k high build primer will cover a 180 scratch. that is not thin and it is the least reduced out of any of base or clear. 3 coats of high build and i can guarentee that you will have orange peel.
I either got strings coming out of the gun or not enough material coming out of the gun. I usually just got close then used test panels; most of the time it was closer to 1-1.10-1.20 (paint to reducer) but depended upon the weather and humidity; had to watch it though, at those amounts sometimes it would flash over too quick. Never used matte clear, never could find a real reason or person who wanted it. I believe that it may be in use on some ford mustangs with the matte finish hood and the new Challenger but I haven't looked at either very closely to see it it is actually paint or vinyl.
To ge a smooth surface, the paint has to be thinned enough to flow when it hits the surface (but not so wet it runs easily). This is a delicate balance and can change with temp/humidity/reducer/hardener.
You ALWAYS need to shoot test paint BEFORE you shoot a panel to get the pattern/flow you desire. Wonder how many people read the data sheet on the paint they shoot???
To ge a smooth surface, the paint has to be thinned enough to flow when it hits the surface (but not so wet it runs easily). This is a delicate balance and can change with temp/humidity/reducer/hardener.
You ALWAYS need to shoot test paint BEFORE you shoot a panel to get the pattern/flow you desire. Wonder how many people read the data sheet on the paint they shoot???
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