(Summary at the bottom.)

A couple months ago I realized that I was still driving around with the original battery in my '99 coupe. Although it worked just fine, I noticed a bit of corrosion and some leakage. I decided to replace it with an Optima Red Top...$130 at Costco, manuf. date within the last month, charged and ready to go.

A few weeks go by, and as I'm driving down the road one early evening I try to put up my headlights as it is getting dark...no go! I rotate the switch over and over but they don't work. I get home JUST before it was dark, turn the car off in the garage, leave the key in the ignition and turn the switch...lights come on! This happened once or twice more in the next few weeks, but I just made sure to have the lights on before I started driving if it was close to dark.

At the same time, I'm noticing that every now and then the car takes an extra few turns to start. I check the battery with a volt-meter a few random times and the voltage looks good, at just over 12V (before cranking). The DIC shows 12.5-13.5 while driving. I figure the car is just getting old and perhaps this is normal.

THEN, the big event. Two weeks ago, the wife and I go out to breakfast on our way to the beach one morning. Come back out to the car, try to start it, and it gives "pull key, wait 10 seconds" error. I do that, and then get the feared Service Column Lock error. I call local dealerships, first one confirms that my car had the recall (I could always move the wheel freely; now I get 2mph shutoff), and then every one tells me they either won't work on my car (wtf?) or it would be $500 and change. I go through Corvette Forum for 3 hours on my cell phone while waiting for a tow truck. Tried everything in the sticky thread, tow truck finally arrives, about $50 later we're home. I decide I'm going to undo the recall and order a CLB. CLB still hasn't arrived

Fast forward to today...the car was sitting for a while, albeit on a battery tender, so I decide to start it up just to keep the fluids moving. Car won't start...battery is dead! I immediately take the batt back to Costco, and decide to save myself $50 by just getting their top of the line "Kirkland Signature" thing. Install the battery, re-program the fob, start the car...starts right up! Not only that, but there is no column lock error(s), and I can turn the headlights on/off as much as I like (car on OR off)! What the fecckkk!?

You know, honestly, I did read here and there that a battery could be responsible for any one of these issues. But to have this POS Red Top be the cause behind ALL OF THIS!? After $100, endless hours, and needless stress spent, I will never buy or recommend an Optima again.

[end rant]


SUMMARY

A new Optima Red Top battery, which showed good voltage and was often kept on a battery tender, was the culprit behind random hard starts, headlight/headlight motor malfunctions, and a column lock problem. It eventually died while the car was sitting to be fixed (column lock/2mph fuel shutoff problem), and a new non-Optima battery fixed all of the problems.

 

Would like to see if you go a while with out any problems before adding this to the list of red top issues. However, I would not recomend them to anyone, at least not to people I like

 

i try to warn ppl u roll dice with the optima

 

I am still thinking about undoing the recall and installing a CLB since I already ordered it. After reading through all those column lock threads (+ the sticky) it seems as though the recall could still fail and leave me stranded. I've experienced that once already...would like to avoid it in the future if possible

 

I never knew a battery could be the cause of the column locking...

 

My first Red Top lasted me two years but I had to make sure to ALWAYS keep a tender on it if it sat for more than two days. Just had it replaced under warranty last month because it died so we'll see how long this one lasts...

 

I have been running a Red Top for the past 3-1/2 years (just installed a new one as I never trust any battery more than about 3 years) - no problems yet, but I drive the car everyday - never needed a battery tender.

 

Don't feel too bad. With an electric car a bad battery causes all sorts of issues

In my case I had similar problems but the battery was an AC Delco and in my sons case the AC Delco added injury to insult and leaked.

This car eats batteries.

 

So what is the best battery for our beloved C5's? I am pretty sure mine is original as well. Hasn't given me a single problem and she sometimes will sit a week or two without even being started. I would like to keep her this way

 

It is the roll of the dice it seems. I had one go bad on my when it was only a few months old. Store I bought it from replaced it with no problem, and I also did some research and learned how to read the manufacturing date code so got the newest one I could find and verified the voltage was good before purchasing.

 

I think I sorta maybe remember that "Optima" was sold and quality has since tanked.
I'm sure the details are out there somewhere, but a once reliable product now seems to have too many complaints. I personally use a NAPA battery just like the Optima except
that it's more powerful, easier to find and costs less...sorry, it doesn't have a pretty color top. I like that there are NAPA stores everywhere in case I do need service for it.

 

I can't remember if it was on the recall itself, or somewhere else, but I read that when the voltage drops below a certain level, the steering lock can engage without the fuel cutting off. Thus the service column lock message.

 

I replaced the factory battery in my Y2K in 2002 with a Red top. I drove the Car 2 times a week, 100 mile RT commute, Replaced the battery with another RT after 5 years just for insurance. Gave old one to my son for his truck and it is still starting fine today. I am retired now so connect a smart float charger since the car may sit for several days.


Johnson Controls makes the Optima and also supplies original equipment batteries for DaimlerChrysler, Ford, Honda, Nissan, and Toyota. They also make DieHard, Duralast, Interstate, ProStart, and Everstart, along with others. Johnson is the largest supplier in North and south America. Any battery can have problems.
OGC5

 

Kirkland Signature auto batteries are made by Johnson Controls.
OGC5

 

That's actually why I went and got the Kirkland Signature battery rather than exchange for another Optima. I was aware of this

I was not aware that an Optima Red Top, supposedly the "cream of the crop" in car batteries (as they advertise it), can fail after just a few weeks (and while being on a tender) AND cause all sorts of problems in the mean time. If I had known it was the battery causing my column lock woes, and thus not being able to drive the car over 2mph, I would have returned that piece of crap and replaced it immediately.

Ah well...live and learn I guess

 

 

The Sears Die Hard Platinum P-4 (Odessy PC1500DT) are currently the best of the lot..

Made by Enersys..

 

I have a two year old red top and have had no problems with it, car has sits for most of the winter and still starts. I think some of these batteries have sat i a warehouse too long before being sold.

 

I recently posted concerning my own battery problem. My tech claims that he could not tighten the negative post bolt. Said bolt was bottoming out before getting tight enough thus had enough juice to run lights, memory seat etc. but would not pass enough juice for the starter. Said was a common problem with GM vehicles with aftermarket batteries. Made sence to me since the battery tested out fine as did the alternator.

 

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