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I had a brain fart and really put my right foot down hard in third while
dragging my left one off the clutch pedal.It slipped bad for several seconds
before locking up and began to smell real bad.It was hours before the stench
cleared up.I think I went through 20k miles worth of clutch in 5 seconds.
The next day I went out and test drove it hard to see if it would slip and
it didn't,however,I can tell it's severely worn.The pedal engages & releases much closer to the top than it did before.There is no chattering when starting
off so in that respect I'm lucky but it just breaks my heart to know I hurt it.
Does anybody know what it costs to replace the clutch assembly in my
Z06?
The moral of the story is that you need to be sure your left foot is off the
pedal before you put your right foot down. :cry
Sorry to hear, a foot with a mind otf it's own?????
Clutch, PP , Flywheel, labor, I figure around $1,500.00..........+ or - a few............
Be sure IF you do a replacement, that the TEch KNOWS how to remove the old unit, & mark the position of the flywheel in reference to the crank............bad JUJU.........just ask Ranger.,,
They are a balanced assy from the factory,,,,,,,,,,
So Caveat Emptor....... :eek:
Can't be any worse than cruising at 40 mph in 4th, and (my left foot was off the clutch and on floor) as I mashed the gas to unleash the almighty LS6 low end torque and watched the tach hit 5000, and the speedo still said 40... 9000 miles on the car and it can't hold 4th after the clutch is fully engaged and cruisin... The clutch was fairly cold as I had only driven about 2 miles and shifted throgh the gears easily, and grandmotherly-like, since the fuzz was bustin out the radar lately on this particular road by my friend's house...Good thing these things have a warranty :smash:
It would be very nice if this were covered under warranty (I'm at 14k miles),
however I don't think GM will cover a burned (worn out) clutch under any
warranty. :(
Well, that would be hard on the clutch disc. The "feathering" technique discussed here in previous posts also, seems to me, would be hard on the clutch. If you are revving @ 5k rpm and "feathering" ( meaning a slow release) in 1st gear would that not also greatly accelerate clutch wear? I think some of us, even in everyday driving (myself included) may slip the clutch too much just pulling into an intersection or going thru a drive-thru. I work on clutch technique all the time.. I know your case was much more severe; just got me thinking. Good luck with your situation, I did the same thing on my 300ZXTT about a year ago and still driving on the same clutch. It doesn't feel as tight as previously but I am going to use it as long as possible. :cool:
Exactly what is the proper technique here guys? I'm a new Z06 owner that has little experience with standard shift cars in general, but feel good about my ability to work this car. I usually take off from first at about 2k to 3k rpm and release the clutch slowly as to not get any jerking motion. Is this causing harm to the clutch by easing out on it in 1st? Should I use more throttle at a higher rpm and get off of the clutch faster? I typically press the clutch in while getting off of the gas then shift to the next gear (2 thru 6) and get off of the clutch much faster (rather quickly) when shifting to any of the higher gears... I'm still new at this, any coaching tips would be greatly appreciated!
Darren, there's no need to rev the engine so high when normally taking off in 1st gear. I find 1500-1800 rpm the optimal range. Not too low to bog the engine down and not too high to put unnecessary stress on the clutch.
Thanks Begger! I usually get the jerking motion if I don't give it a little more gas and lightly let out of the clutch. I'll sure try it in the 1500 to 1800 range. Guess I still need to fine tune my take offs!
Sure they will warantee it just take the car into the dealer and tell them that the cluch is chattering. they will probly take you on a test drive so that they can see what you are talking about. then just slip the mechanic a franklin and he will warantee it for you. Heck you might not even have to do that they may not even test drive it. they may just replace the cluch on your word. or another thing that you could do is drive the car while on the test drive and slipt the cluch while the mechanic is in the car. who knows man it might work. Those mechanics get paid for warantee work and alot of them like working on vettes they might just warantee it for the privlage of getting a test drive in your car. You remimber hearing those scams about mechanics doing unnessisary work on cars so they could make money it works the same for warantee work too. :chevy
I feel for you. About 8 months ago I took my first trip to the track. I did a heel toe burnout feathering the clutch for about 10 seconds. When I looked in my mirror I didn't see any smoke coming off my tires. Then I smelled it. Toasted clutch. Man I screwed up. I wasn't used to the clutch and I tried to ease into a burnout that cost me a Grand. I couldn't even launch at the green light. I just limped down the track as embarrassed as I've ever been.
Well, some info that I am sure some of you do not know........so take notes.
The C5 clutch is DIFFERENT than a traditional direct straight disc to Pressure plate lockup.
It STARTS engaging at the OUTSIDE edge of the disc.......and then after a bit, works into a full contact lockup.
The problem is, the use of the clutch for Strip, is that you are not getting full contact on these components..........thus, you run a much higher risk of toasting your ride doing them this way.
Quote" These cars were meant for xcross, and track events, not Dragstrip use.......".
They are for high speed tracking, and are suspect for multiple 1/4 mile blasts......
Although MANY do just that with great success..................
This was from a well known C5 tech.........so for what it's worth.........be advised.......slipping the clutch, and slipping INTO the clutch are two different animals........fyi :rolleyes:
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