I would really like to put heated seats in my C5 this winter. It doesn't get very cold here, but this is a feature I have been in love with ever since driving my mom's Audi.

There are plenty of threads with info, but the one which looked most helpful (can't find the link for some reason) was from about 2005 and most of the pictures don't exist anymore.

I can handle the electronics no problem, but I'm looking for instructions/advice/pics as to how to get the heating elements into the seats. I'm hoping I don't have to take the seats all apart to get them in, maybe just unzip the covers and slide them into place?

I'm looking at the PFYC kit, the 3 mode setting version.

one other question for those that have them, is the heating element completely flat? I ask because I have a heating blanket which is also great for the wintertime, but it has rather stiff wire running through it. if the seat heater pad was like that you'd be able to feel the conductors while sitting in the seat. I'm pretty sure its not like that, but I thought I would ask

tia

 

I think this Thread may be of some help. I do know that you will have to remove the seats and skin to install the Heating Pads plus install some switches for control of the heated seats.

If you live close to Mid America Motorworks i think they sell the Heating pads and think they could install them too. If you don't want to do them yourself.

Here is the link for a DIY repair. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...y+heated+seats

 

This has come up a couple of times recently. I guess its that time of the year. FWIW I think this was one of the best mods I did on the Vert. It really extends the top down driving season.

To answer your questions:

You need to choose the heating pads carefully. The ones O got can be cut at any point. Because of the way the element is made up it has redundant loops so the current gets around despite the cuts.

You need to take the seats out and the console. You could run the wires externally but it would look really bad. Take the time out and do a proper job. Its worth it.

Once the pads are in place you cant feel them at all. The wires route out of the back of the seat so again they're out of the way.

Let me know if you need any advice as you get into it.

How To Fit Heated Seats to a Corvette C5

Those of us who drive convertibles know only too well that on a sunny Winter’s day there’s nothing better than to drop the roof, wrap up warm and take off for a drive. Even so, even the hardiest of us would like that little touch of luxury that comes with heated seats. Fitting them to the C5 is an easy mod that’s well within the capabilities of the average DIY’er.

What You’ll need:

A heated seat kit
Basic Tools
A Dremel
Shears (to cut the heater pads)

The Fit

I bought my kit from Sports Imports. They have a good range and I went for the Universal Model (Product Code SIL-01) which at the time cost $160. It was particularly good because the element design allows you to trim the pads to fit the seat without damaging any of the electrical elements. Some kits have to be fitted as they are as you’d break the circuit if you trim the pad. Make sure you know which pad you’ve bought. The kit came with very clear installation instructions and included a 9” x 18” back pad, a 9” x 18” seat pad, an electronic temperature control module, two dual temperature (high/low) two-colour illuminated round switches and cable ties and insulating tape.

First disconnect the battery. Make sure you can reactivate your radio if you have the security feature set or, better still, deactivate the security feature before you start. If you forget, there are instructions online on the Corvette Forum on how to solve this problem.

The kit comes with a good wiring diagram which shows how to connect up the leads and gives you a good idea of the overall scope of the modification.


The Wiring Diagram Which Comes With The Kit

Next you need to take out both seats. This sounds much worse than it really is. All you need to do is unhook the electrical connections under the seats and remove the main bolts. There are great instructions on the Vette Essentials Website online and I’ve included a link below. Follow the Vette Essentials instructions to step 17c but stop before removing the bottom covers as you can fit the heating pads with the covers still on the seats. Next, work the Velcro fastening loose inside the seat covers. This fastening sculpts the stock seat cover so you’ll lose this definition with the pads in place. A small price to pay. Take care because the Velcro hooks are very sharp. Work out the size of heating pads you want and trim the pads to size using some shears. Slide the lower seat pad into the gap between the seat cover and the foam pad and route the wires out of the back of the seat. My kit was adhesive backed to hold the elements in place. There are connectors on the wiring harness which allow you to connect to the rest of the wiring loom later. Fit the back pad element into place and replace the seat cover by reversing the Vette Essentials instructions.

Next step is to remove the console. Again follow the Vette Essentials instructions to step 3 to allow you to run the wires forward underneath the console to the switch mounting position. You may feel you can route the wires without completely stripping the console out. I found it easier to work with the console out of the car and there was less risk of a pinched wire. Run the wiring harness to the ashtray area from the rear of the console making sure you leave enough wire at the rear to connect to the seat/heater looms. Run the live wire under the edge of the console area and down into the passenger footwell to emerge next to the lower fuse panel. This is a bit fiddly so I used a wire coat hanger to thread the wire down behind the dash trim panel. An alternative would be to route it directly under the carpet from the rear of the seats to the passenger footwell.

Now we need to fit the switches and you have two choices where to mount them. If your car doesn’t have the selective ride control switch you could mount them on the active handling panel. The advantage here is that they are easily accessible and look very neat. The down side is that you need to trim a section of the circuit board which sits behind the AH panel to give enough room for the switches. It’s not for the faint hearted and there could be tears!

The hole you need for mounting the switches is about the size of a US 5 cent piece or a Brit Penny. Check the size before you cut plastic. A tiny piece of double sided tape will hold them in place while you mark the panel. Best advice is to start smaller than you need and slowly enlarge the hole until you get a tight fit. If you have a Dremel, drill a tiny 1/2" diameter hole using the sanding drum. You can see from this picture that the back side of the AH plate is very busy. There’s considerable trial and error trimming to get the circuit board to clear the switches although none of it is visible once the panel is refitted. Make sure you don’t cut something important in the process.


The Switches Mounted on the Active Handling Panel

The safer option is to fit them as I did in the ashtray unit. Dismantle the ashtray unit. The outer door which is fitted to the console bezel will cover the switches once you’ve finished the fit. Remove the inner door of the ashtray. You could use this to mount the switches as it fits the hole perfectly. If you do, be very careful as you drill the material as it’s very brittle. Cut a slot in the rear side of the ashtray mount using a hacksaw or Dremel cutting wheel. This allows the wires and connectors to route out from the switches. Again be very careful as you cut as the Bakelite material is brittle and easily broken.



The Switches Mounted in the Ashtray

I used a small black plastic faceplate to mount the switches. Drill two holes (5/8”) for the switches to sit snug on the plate. Pull the main wiring connector through the hole and attach it to the switch. Fit the switch snug in the hole until it clicks in place then fit the faceplate into the ashtray and screw in from the sides to hold it in place.


The Switches in Place on the Panel

Reassemble the console taking care not to pinch any wires. Pull the wires through the ashtray hole. Connect to the switches. Slot the ashtray back into place. This is how the switches should look once they are mounted.


The Final Switch Installation

Reinstall the seats leaving access to the wires which are protruding from behind the seat base. Connect those wires to the main harness connectors and secure the wires to the carpet if you feel the need.

Next we need to hook up the power by connecting the live red wire to a switched power supply. Again there are 2 choices. You can buy spade type connectors from the Company who sell the seats which splice onto the power lead and will slot directly into a spare fuse slot in the fuse panel in the footwell (Add-a-Tap). You can see from this picture a wire attached to fuse number 22.



Alternatively you can hook up at a spare connector in the passenger footwell. Pull out the cover and look in the top left corner above the computer module. There’s a small plug with three wires (orange, yellow, & black) that are taped up. The yellow wire is the +12V switched supply. Splice into that using an online electrical connector.



Connecting to the Footwell Switched Power Supply

Next you need to ground the installation. Connect the ground wire to a suitable ground point. The grounds can be tied together on one ring lug and grounded under a 10mm screw. I ran through the bulkhead to the ground behind the passenger headlight. This is fiddly and you need to thread the wire through the bulkhead through the firewall behind the battery. You need to remove the battery to get access if you choose this option.


Bulkhead Earthing Point

Much easier is to use one of the other grounds nearby. One is located under the bulge of rug found beneath the dash panel on the passenger side. It’s that little overhang of carpeting located just off to the left-bottom corner of the glovebox.


Glovebox Earthing Point

All that leaves you to do is reconnect the battery and test the seats. There are two settings low and high. Low is toasty and High is a definite “Bottom Burner”!

All in all this is a fairly straight forward modification but I have to say, on a cold day it’s one of my all time favourites

I used some pictures provided by members over the years. if your pic is there I hope you dont mind me using it

Internet Links:

Heated Seat Kit from Sports Imports:

http://www.seatheater-heatedseats.co...OVMTC=standard

How to Remove the Seats:

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...er_change.html
How To Remove the Console:

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...t_install.html

 

You want directions?
DeeGee is the man!
Don't let these pics discourage you, it's not nearly as bad as it looks. I combined the insulation and heated seats.
Heated seats are awesome!

 

You don't have to remove the seats to install a set of heaters. The vetteessentials site is a great place to see how the seats come apart so look at that to see the idea.

This is for sport seats only, not sure how to do the regular ones but I have done 2 sets of sport seats no problem.

Leave seats in.

There is a zipper across the top of the back insert. Pull out the zipper and unzip it. The back insert (cushion) falls forward. Pull the top plastic tabs when you pull the insert forward to free it. (All this is on the vetteessentials site) The insert falls free and is held in at the bottom with the leather folding over, you'll see it there. Remove the insert. Then it is simple as trimming the heater element some and reinstalling. Leave the insert out until the bottom is done. NOTE: Whether you remove the seat or not this part is the same.

For the bottom it is simple to pull the two hog rings that hold the back flap of material holding the bottom leather in. Use a mirror to look under the seat, grab the ring with a pair of pliers and pull off. The passenger side is easier with more room under the seat, do that first. Then need to decide on how far forward you want the element. I cut the elements to go just up to the first velcro in the seat so as not to make the seat go out of shape. You can put the element far forward by pulling up the velcro but you lose the fitted seat bottom. Then put the bottom flap back in place with zip ties, not hog rings. They go in easily. NOTE: Whether you remove the seat or not this part is the same.

Run the wires under the console to your switches.

Removing the seat is simple with 4 nuts and the wiring connector but definitely not needed and ads complexity of this simple job.

 

Not trying to be argumentative, but it is soooooooo easy to remove the seats that I can't see not going through the little bit of effort it takes to make this job easier.
Remove the targa, or put the top down to help.

 

It would have been so much harder feeding the wiring around the console with the seat in place

Seats out is 5 minutes.

Preparation is always worth the effort IMHO

 

Doesn't sound too bad. I have F45 so no installing the switches there. I also have no power outlet under the little door, I put a switch panel in instead, but that's exactly where I'll put my seat heater switches. this way also I can close the door at night if I'm using the heaters and the LED is blinding. I usually drive at night with blackout mode on my Stereo reciever, dimmer all the way down, pitch black inside the car using the HUD on a dim setting to see. so even one LED inside the car would brighten it up quite a bit.

I think I'm going to get the 3 temp setting product sold by PFYC. is this the one that allows you to trim the heating pads to the exact shape of the seat? One thing that I don't like about it is that it has an automatic timeout, you have to turn it off and back on every hour if you want to keep the heat flowing especially while driving in cooler weather with the top off I would want the seat heaters to just stay on. I think their low end version doesn't have this but the better ones with more heat settings do. if anyone has them, do you find this annoying?