Leaking Convertible
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 681
Likes: 11
From: Carson City MI
Got pics now
Okay, I finally have the pics up. The forum would not let me transfer them yesterday for some reason. I don't know how to move them into this thread (maybe someone can move them). Click on my avatar and go into my photos.
Photo 1 and 2 shows where I inserted a 10 inch long 1/4" dia dowel into the rear weatherstrip to stop the air rush. The WS has a fold in it that allows you to just insert the dowel into it and it moves it out to put more pressure on the window to seal it better. I took out my painted ones and inserted plain wooden ones so you can see them better.
Photos 4 and 5 are before and after shots using plain and painted black so you can see where this 3 inch long 1/4" dowel is inserted at the top of the window and then you will observe that when painted black, it is not visible. Matches the WS. This dowel goes in between the fabric top and the WS and forces the WS down over the glass with the door closed. You will have to experiment a little as each case may have the problem in a different place. You might need a longer dowel. Basically, the WS must lap over the top edge of the glass as it was originally intended, or you will have a leak. The dowel forces it down to accomplish that. Once you have it working, paint the dowels black. I simply used a permant marker, but enamel would hold up to the weather better. Be sure to paint the ends as they will soak up water.
Another area to look at is where the end of the top WS meets the WS on the windshield pillar. If that is not a tight seal you can lift your top and observe where the pillar WS makes a U shape that meets the top WS. This can also be pushed out to make better contact with either a very short dowel and I am thinking that perhaps filling it with silicone would do it. Mine did not leak there.
Photo 1 and 2 shows where I inserted a 10 inch long 1/4" dia dowel into the rear weatherstrip to stop the air rush. The WS has a fold in it that allows you to just insert the dowel into it and it moves it out to put more pressure on the window to seal it better. I took out my painted ones and inserted plain wooden ones so you can see them better.
Photos 4 and 5 are before and after shots using plain and painted black so you can see where this 3 inch long 1/4" dowel is inserted at the top of the window and then you will observe that when painted black, it is not visible. Matches the WS. This dowel goes in between the fabric top and the WS and forces the WS down over the glass with the door closed. You will have to experiment a little as each case may have the problem in a different place. You might need a longer dowel. Basically, the WS must lap over the top edge of the glass as it was originally intended, or you will have a leak. The dowel forces it down to accomplish that. Once you have it working, paint the dowels black. I simply used a permant marker, but enamel would hold up to the weather better. Be sure to paint the ends as they will soak up water.
Another area to look at is where the end of the top WS meets the WS on the windshield pillar. If that is not a tight seal you can lift your top and observe where the pillar WS makes a U shape that meets the top WS. This can also be pushed out to make better contact with either a very short dowel and I am thinking that perhaps filling it with silicone would do it. Mine did not leak there.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 681
Likes: 11
From: Carson City MI
I guess I'm missing something about the dowel at the top of the window. Did you place it behind the WS between the WS and the frame of the top? The picture is not clear enough for me to see where the dowel is actually located. ( your black out job obviously works 
)
Mine leaks at the top toward the front so I'm thinking I could use the same fix if I can understand what you did well enough.
)Mine leaks at the top toward the front so I'm thinking I could use the same fix if I can understand what you did well enough.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 681
Likes: 11
From: Carson City MI
Thanks. I got it now. 
I just looked at the area in question on my car. It is just behind the leading edge of the vert. top and the rubber just touches the glass as you describe and doesn't lap over the top of the glass. I will need a fairly short piece of dowel to force the WS down over the top of the glass in that area. Upon checking the passenger side I discovered that I have the same issue there in exactly the same place that I was unaware of until reading this post.
I may try a piece of rubber vacuum hose to see if that will do the trick. That will not require any attention to stop from absorbing water if it will work.
Thanks for the post and Pic's...........
I just looked at the area in question on my car. It is just behind the leading edge of the vert. top and the rubber just touches the glass as you describe and doesn't lap over the top of the glass. I will need a fairly short piece of dowel to force the WS down over the top of the glass in that area. Upon checking the passenger side I discovered that I have the same issue there in exactly the same place that I was unaware of until reading this post.I may try a piece of rubber vacuum hose to see if that will do the trick. That will not require any attention to stop from absorbing water if it will work.
Thanks for the post and Pic's...........
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 5
From: Forsyth Illinois
Thanks. I got it now. I just looked at the area in question on my car. It is just behind the leading edge of the vert. top and the rubber just touches the glass as you describe and doesn't lap over the top of the glass. I will need a fairly short piece of dowel to force the WS down over the top of the glass in that area. Upon checking the passenger side I discovered that I have the same issue there in exactly the same place that I was unaware of until reading this post.
I may try a piece of rubber vacuum hose to see if that will do the trick. That will not require any attention to stop from absorbing water if it will work.
Thanks for the post and Pic's...........
I just looked at the area in question on my car. It is just behind the leading edge of the vert. top and the rubber just touches the glass as you describe and doesn't lap over the top of the glass. I will need a fairly short piece of dowel to force the WS down over the top of the glass in that area. Upon checking the passenger side I discovered that I have the same issue there in exactly the same place that I was unaware of until reading this post.I may try a piece of rubber vacuum hose to see if that will do the trick. That will not require any attention to stop from absorbing water if it will work.
Thanks for the post and Pic's...........
Great post your findings also.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,617
Likes: 2
From: San Diego California
This great info is from GREENDREAM! Many thanks to him!
Okay, I finally have the pics up. The forum would not let me transfer them yesterday for some reason. I don't know how to move them into this thread (maybe someone can move them). Click on my avatar and go into my photos.
Photo 1 and 2 shows where I inserted a 10 inch long 1/4" dia dowel into the rear weatherstrip to stop the air rush. The WS has a fold in it that allows you to just insert the dowel into it and it moves it out to put more pressure on the window to seal it better. I took out my painted ones and inserted plain wooden ones so you can see them better.
Photos 4 and 5 are before and after shots using plain and painted black so you can see where this 3 inch long 1/4" dowel is inserted at the top of the window and then you will observe that when painted black, it is not visible. Matches the WS. This dowel goes in between the fabric top and the WS and forces the WS down over the glass with the door closed. You will have to experiment a little as each case may have the problem in a different place. You might need a longer dowel. Basically, the WS must lap over the top edge of the glass as it was originally intended, or you will have a leak. The dowel forces it down to accomplish that. Once you have it working, paint the dowels black. I simply used a permant marker, but enamel would hold up to the weather better. Be sure to paint the ends as they will soak up water.
Another area to look at is where the end of the top WS meets the WS on the windshield pillar. If that is not a tight seal you can lift your top and observe where the pillar WS makes a U shape that meets the top WS. This can also be pushed out to make better contact with either a very short dowel and I am thinking that perhaps filling it with silicone would do it. Mine did not leak there.
Whats with the seats???
I'm very appreciative of your leaking convertible/wind noise reduction fix, the least I could do is post up the pics Thank you very much!
Okay, I finally have the pics up. The forum would not let me transfer them yesterday for some reason. I don't know how to move them into this thread (maybe someone can move them). Click on my avatar and go into my photos.
Photo 1 and 2 shows where I inserted a 10 inch long 1/4" dia dowel into the rear weatherstrip to stop the air rush. The WS has a fold in it that allows you to just insert the dowel into it and it moves it out to put more pressure on the window to seal it better. I took out my painted ones and inserted plain wooden ones so you can see them better.
Photos 4 and 5 are before and after shots using plain and painted black so you can see where this 3 inch long 1/4" dowel is inserted at the top of the window and then you will observe that when painted black, it is not visible. Matches the WS. This dowel goes in between the fabric top and the WS and forces the WS down over the glass with the door closed. You will have to experiment a little as each case may have the problem in a different place. You might need a longer dowel. Basically, the WS must lap over the top edge of the glass as it was originally intended, or you will have a leak. The dowel forces it down to accomplish that. Once you have it working, paint the dowels black. I simply used a permant marker, but enamel would hold up to the weather better. Be sure to paint the ends as they will soak up water.
Another area to look at is where the end of the top WS meets the WS on the windshield pillar. If that is not a tight seal you can lift your top and observe where the pillar WS makes a U shape that meets the top WS. This can also be pushed out to make better contact with either a very short dowel and I am thinking that perhaps filling it with silicone would do it. Mine did not leak there.
Whats with the seats???
I'm very appreciative of your leaking convertible/wind noise reduction fix, the least I could do is post up the pics
Thank you very much!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,512
Likes: 49
From: Franklin IN
This great info is from GREENDREAM! Many thanks to him!
Okay, I finally have the pics up. The forum would not let me transfer them yesterday for some reason. I don't know how to move them into this thread (maybe someone can move them). Click on my avatar and go into my photos.
Photo 1 and 2 shows where I inserted a 10 inch long 1/4" dia dowel into the rear weatherstrip to stop the air rush. The WS has a fold in it that allows you to just insert the dowel into it and it moves it out to put more pressure on the window to seal it better. I took out my painted ones and inserted plain wooden ones so you can see them better.
Photos 4 and 5 are before and after shots using plain and painted black so you can see where this 3 inch long 1/4" dowel is inserted at the top of the window and then you will observe that when painted black, it is not visible. Matches the WS. This dowel goes in between the fabric top and the WS and forces the WS down over the glass with the door closed. You will have to experiment a little as each case may have the problem in a different place. You might need a longer dowel. Basically, the WS must lap over the top edge of the glass as it was originally intended, or you will have a leak. The dowel forces it down to accomplish that. Once you have it working, paint the dowels black. I simply used a permant marker, but enamel would hold up to the weather better. Be sure to paint the ends as they will soak up water.
Another area to look at is where the end of the top WS meets the WS on the windshield pillar. If that is not a tight seal you can lift your top and observe where the pillar WS makes a U shape that meets the top WS. This can also be pushed out to make better contact with either a very short dowel and I am thinking that perhaps filling it with silicone would do it. Mine did not leak there.
Whats with the seats???
I'm very appreciative of your leaking convertible/wind noise reduction fix, the least I could do is post up the pics Thank you very much!
Okay, I finally have the pics up. The forum would not let me transfer them yesterday for some reason. I don't know how to move them into this thread (maybe someone can move them). Click on my avatar and go into my photos.
Photo 1 and 2 shows where I inserted a 10 inch long 1/4" dia dowel into the rear weatherstrip to stop the air rush. The WS has a fold in it that allows you to just insert the dowel into it and it moves it out to put more pressure on the window to seal it better. I took out my painted ones and inserted plain wooden ones so you can see them better.
Photos 4 and 5 are before and after shots using plain and painted black so you can see where this 3 inch long 1/4" dowel is inserted at the top of the window and then you will observe that when painted black, it is not visible. Matches the WS. This dowel goes in between the fabric top and the WS and forces the WS down over the glass with the door closed. You will have to experiment a little as each case may have the problem in a different place. You might need a longer dowel. Basically, the WS must lap over the top edge of the glass as it was originally intended, or you will have a leak. The dowel forces it down to accomplish that. Once you have it working, paint the dowels black. I simply used a permant marker, but enamel would hold up to the weather better. Be sure to paint the ends as they will soak up water.
Another area to look at is where the end of the top WS meets the WS on the windshield pillar. If that is not a tight seal you can lift your top and observe where the pillar WS makes a U shape that meets the top WS. This can also be pushed out to make better contact with either a very short dowel and I am thinking that perhaps filling it with silicone would do it. Mine did not leak there.
Whats with the seats???
I'm very appreciative of your leaking convertible/wind noise reduction fix, the least I could do is post up the pics
Thank you very much! Great Posts guys thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,865
Likes: 6
From: Saraland Alabama
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Good info!
I have an '02 on which I have never had a water leak unless you spray hard hose spray directly at top of windows and then it only makes a small trickle down the inside of window glass.
The secret I have found to maintaining the water tight integrity of weather seals is an annual application (my Vettes are garage queens so if yours sits outside you may want to apply it quarterly) of dielectic grease (gelled silicone). It is available in a small tube at any electrical supply house and perhaps at hardware stores for around $10.00 but if you want it in a genuine GM tube you can go to your dealer and pay around $40.00 for the same stuff in a different tube.
This stuff is definitely great in extending the life of all your rubber on your Vette. I always rub in on using a tiny dab on a few inches taking care to rub it in thoroughly before moving on. Be careful not to use too much! Do not get it on the glass or paint as it is very difficult to remove. After I have all the w/s coated I then let it sit for at least an hour before taking a lint free rag and carefully removing the excess.
Unless your w/s is in really bad shape this dielectric grease will definitely make it look much better and become soft and pliable. Keeping your w/s pliable and soft will cut down on any leaks that you have whether they are wind or water leaks.
Sanford in Saraland, Al.
I have an '02 on which I have never had a water leak unless you spray hard hose spray directly at top of windows and then it only makes a small trickle down the inside of window glass.
The secret I have found to maintaining the water tight integrity of weather seals is an annual application (my Vettes are garage queens so if yours sits outside you may want to apply it quarterly) of dielectic grease (gelled silicone). It is available in a small tube at any electrical supply house and perhaps at hardware stores for around $10.00 but if you want it in a genuine GM tube you can go to your dealer and pay around $40.00 for the same stuff in a different tube.
This stuff is definitely great in extending the life of all your rubber on your Vette. I always rub in on using a tiny dab on a few inches taking care to rub it in thoroughly before moving on. Be careful not to use too much! Do not get it on the glass or paint as it is very difficult to remove. After I have all the w/s coated I then let it sit for at least an hour before taking a lint free rag and carefully removing the excess.
Unless your w/s is in really bad shape this dielectric grease will definitely make it look much better and become soft and pliable. Keeping your w/s pliable and soft will cut down on any leaks that you have whether they are wind or water leaks.
Sanford in Saraland, Al.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,512
Likes: 49
From: Franklin IN
Good info!
I have an '02 on which I have never had a water leak unless you spray hard hose spray directly at top of windows and then it only makes a small trickle down the inside of window glass.
The secret I have found to maintaining the water tight integrity of weather seals is an annual application (my Vettes are garage queens so if yours sits outside you may want to apply it quarterly) of dielectic grease (gelled silicone). It is available in a small tube at any electrical supply house and perhaps at hardware stores for around $10.00 but if you want it in a genuine GM tube you can go to your dealer and pay around $40.00 for the same stuff in a different tube.
This stuff is definitely great in extending the life of all your rubber on your Vette. I always rub in on using a tiny dab on a few inches taking care to rub it in thoroughly before moving on. Be careful not to use too much! Do not get it on the glass or paint as it is very difficult to remove. After I have all the w/s coated I then let it sit for at least an hour before taking a lint free rag and carefully removing the excess.
Unless your w/s is in really bad shape this dielectric grease will definitely make it look much better and become soft and pliable. Keeping your w/s pliable and soft will cut down on any leaks that you have whether they are wind or water leaks.
Sanford in Saraland, Al.
I have an '02 on which I have never had a water leak unless you spray hard hose spray directly at top of windows and then it only makes a small trickle down the inside of window glass.
The secret I have found to maintaining the water tight integrity of weather seals is an annual application (my Vettes are garage queens so if yours sits outside you may want to apply it quarterly) of dielectic grease (gelled silicone). It is available in a small tube at any electrical supply house and perhaps at hardware stores for around $10.00 but if you want it in a genuine GM tube you can go to your dealer and pay around $40.00 for the same stuff in a different tube.
This stuff is definitely great in extending the life of all your rubber on your Vette. I always rub in on using a tiny dab on a few inches taking care to rub it in thoroughly before moving on. Be careful not to use too much! Do not get it on the glass or paint as it is very difficult to remove. After I have all the w/s coated I then let it sit for at least an hour before taking a lint free rag and carefully removing the excess.
Unless your w/s is in really bad shape this dielectric grease will definitely make it look much better and become soft and pliable. Keeping your w/s pliable and soft will cut down on any leaks that you have whether they are wind or water leaks.
Sanford in Saraland, Al.
Mine is garage kept as well and I use the dielectric grease as well but it still leaks. I am going to try the the dowel backing except I am going to try the vacuum hose insead of wood. Thanks for the suggestion.
Bob
Pro
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
From: Casselberry Florida
Let's keep this thread going! I have the same issue. Look at the weatherstrip on either side of the black tab, then look at the strip on the left. See how the left is nice and flipping over? The stuff on both sides of the tab is way out of shape! HELP!
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 681
Likes: 11
From: Carson City MI
This great info is from GREENDREAM! Many thanks to him!
Okay, I finally have the pics up. The forum would not let me transfer them yesterday for some reason. I don't know how to move them into this thread (maybe someone can move them). Click on my avatar and go into my photos.
Photo 1 and 2 shows where I inserted a 10 inch long 1/4" dia dowel into the rear weatherstrip to stop the air rush. The WS has a fold in it that allows you to just insert the dowel into it and it moves it out to put more pressure on the window to seal it better. I took out my painted ones and inserted plain wooden ones so you can see them better.
Photos 4 and 5 are before and after shots using plain and painted black so you can see where this 3 inch long 1/4" dowel is inserted at the top of the window and then you will observe that when painted black, it is not visible. Matches the WS. This dowel goes in between the fabric top and the WS and forces the WS down over the glass with the door closed. You will have to experiment a little as each case may have the problem in a different place. You might need a longer dowel. Basically, the WS must lap over the top edge of the glass as it was originally intended, or you will have a leak. The dowel forces it down to accomplish that. Once you have it working, paint the dowels black. I simply used a permant marker, but enamel would hold up to the weather better. Be sure to paint the ends as they will soak up water.
Another area to look at is where the end of the top WS meets the WS on the windshield pillar. If that is not a tight seal you can lift your top and observe where the pillar WS makes a U shape that meets the top WS. This can also be pushed out to make better contact with either a very short dowel and I am thinking that perhaps filling it with silicone would do it. Mine did not leak there.
Whats with the seats???
I'm very appreciative of your leaking convertible/wind noise reduction fix, the least I could do is post up the pics Thank you very much!
Okay, I finally have the pics up. The forum would not let me transfer them yesterday for some reason. I don't know how to move them into this thread (maybe someone can move them). Click on my avatar and go into my photos.
Photo 1 and 2 shows where I inserted a 10 inch long 1/4" dia dowel into the rear weatherstrip to stop the air rush. The WS has a fold in it that allows you to just insert the dowel into it and it moves it out to put more pressure on the window to seal it better. I took out my painted ones and inserted plain wooden ones so you can see them better.
Photos 4 and 5 are before and after shots using plain and painted black so you can see where this 3 inch long 1/4" dowel is inserted at the top of the window and then you will observe that when painted black, it is not visible. Matches the WS. This dowel goes in between the fabric top and the WS and forces the WS down over the glass with the door closed. You will have to experiment a little as each case may have the problem in a different place. You might need a longer dowel. Basically, the WS must lap over the top edge of the glass as it was originally intended, or you will have a leak. The dowel forces it down to accomplish that. Once you have it working, paint the dowels black. I simply used a permant marker, but enamel would hold up to the weather better. Be sure to paint the ends as they will soak up water.
Another area to look at is where the end of the top WS meets the WS on the windshield pillar. If that is not a tight seal you can lift your top and observe where the pillar WS makes a U shape that meets the top WS. This can also be pushed out to make better contact with either a very short dowel and I am thinking that perhaps filling it with silicone would do it. Mine did not leak there.
Whats with the seats???
I'm very appreciative of your leaking convertible/wind noise reduction fix, the least I could do is post up the pics
Thank you very much!
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 681
Likes: 11
From: Carson City MI
Man.. that really looks distorted.. Have these been replaced at some point or original? Does it leak? Does the WS seal over the top of the window when it's closed? It almost looks like it got doubled up under the black tab.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
From: Casselberry Florida
I don't know if it's been replaced. I inherited the car from my dad who passed away in June. He had it out in AZ, and I've got here in FL right now. When we drove it across country, we didn't notice any leaks but definitely some wind noise coming through. I think the weather strip for that section is like 200 bucks or something! I would like to try sticking a dowel in there to see if I can get it back into shape!
