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After 60000 miles and a lot of track days my 2001 Z blew a piston or ring in cylinder #7. I have a brand new comp cam, Varam and Kooks headers/cats. My garage suggested a GM long block and putting my go fast parts in it. Any suggestions of alternative ideas--I have plenty of power (405rwp) and want reliability for heavy track use. More torque would be great but I don't want to go overboard on cost. mddpm
Check your heads and block. You may get lucky and you may get away with just replacing the piston and its rings. This will save you a few thousand dollars for now and plan on going forged when you're ready.
I blew my #7 last November on my SC'd stock bottom end at the track. My tuner (Charlie at RPM) took my driver's side head off and found the broken ring but was surprised at how good the block looked. So he just replaced my #7 piston and put new rings on the other pistons while he was in there. My car puts down 588rwhp and has run flawlessly since, about 8,000 miles.
RPM has some great deals on forged short blocks if you want/need to replace your bottom end. It really doesn't make sense to buy a long block just to tear it appart and put your go fast parts on it, start with a forged short block and I bet you get a more reliable motor for less money.
Check out this thread- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2164149
Last edited by MarkT 2002; Oct 30, 2008 at 04:57 AM.
My '02 ZO6 motor went out in April this year. Number 7 piston was destroyed. I saved the intake, oil pan and accessories. Everything else was trashed. I went with a bare LS3 block, 243 heads polished ported, CP pistons, GM crank, ARP rod bolts, Crower connecting rods...... I added a 3qt Accusump, Ron Davis Radiator with EOC (oil temps with this motor were much higer). And if luck wasn't against me this year I had to replace the transmission last month, went with a Level V RPM with mechanical cooler;
I thought it was pretty difficult to blow up a LSX engine
How many HPDE's was this? And what is it with #7? I heard that one runs a little lean, did you tune your car rich to counter this? How hot do you run yours?
I would only get a long/short block from GM if you don't trust your mechanic / machine shop.
This car is a two owner vehicle, I bought it from a friend a year ago. In the seven years of it's life it has done two to three track days every month, including HPDE and time trials with NASA. It has also had many autocross weekends. It has run hot on a few track days when the ambient temp is over 104 F. .The mods are headers, cam, Varam,an extra oil cooler and nonrunning gear stuff like Pfadt suspension, roll bar, etc. It runs with Kumho Victor racers, and is run hard. I still don't know if it is a piston or a ring, and did not want to pay for more teardown. The cam/headers were done by Advanced Dyno--now out of business. I have called the recomended So Cal shop, with no answer to several calls, so I think I will go new GM long block with my cam/headers. mddpm
#7? I heard that one runs a little lean, did you tune your car rich to counter this?
Not sure how it runs lean. Lean means there is too much air or not enough fuel. It is a port fuel injected engine with a dry manifold and they aren't like a wet manifold where the mixture changes as it goes through the manifold. If it was due to injectors not supplying enough fuel the failures would be occuring randomly across all of the cylinders. If it isn't the injectors then it must mean the air flow into the intake ports is greater at the rear of the manifold than the ports at the front or middle. Does the air flow to the intake ports in the rear of the manifold increase due to a ram effect at the back of the intake manifold?
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; Oct 31, 2008 at 01:22 AM.
I have called the recomended So Cal shop, with no answer to several calls, so I think I will go new GM long block with my cam/headers. mddpm
If he's that busy that he can't be reached, he might not be for you. I had a C4 in the shop for 5 months between teardown, machine shop (they're busy so it took a month to turn that around), and re-install. This was not a pleasant experience and I don't think the machine shop expenses of $2k were really necessary--the 2 owners generally tried to rake me over the coals.
We have a nationally known shop here and he takes forever to turn things around.
Trust is soooo important if you try to rebuild it on a budget. If I had it to do over again, I'd mic a lot of things myself because I think my paid help was just out to be more conservative w/ more business for themselves.
This car is a two owner vehicle, I bought it from a friend a year ago. In the seven years of it's life it has done two to three track days every month, including HPDE and time trials with NASA. It has also had many autocross weekends. It has run hot on a few track days when the ambient temp is over 104 F. .The mods are headers, cam, Varam,an extra oil cooler and nonrunning gear stuff like Pfadt suspension, roll bar, etc. It runs with Kumho Victor racers, and is run hard. I still don't know if it is a piston or a ring, and did not want to pay for more teardown. The cam/headers were done by Advanced Dyno--now out of business. I have called the recomended So Cal shop, with no answer to several calls, so I think I will go new GM long block with my cam/headers. mddpm
I received your voice mail at 10AM yesterday. I also noticed you dialed in on my cell number as well as the 888 number earlier in the morning.
I returned your call, yesterday, at approximately at 2 PM - but you were not available. I left a detailed message with your receptionist stating, in part, that I would try again in the morning.
I am really sorry that I can't catch every phone call, every time. So the best solution (the best I have any way) is to to hire people to answer questions and if needed, take or relay messages.
I hope to work with you and if I missed this opportunity, maybe the next time.