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I'm trying to install a pair of AMR LTs (1 7/8") and the passenger side does not want to go in. Driver's side was a breeze but I've spent ~3 hours trying to get the passenger side in from the bottom and giving up on that tried the top. I removed the starter and it made no difference so I put it back in. I also tried loosening the motor mounts and jacked up the engine until it nearly hits the cowl. The car is on jack stands ~19" high, I tried jacking the front-right side higher and it didn't seem to matter. It *NEARLY* goes in from the bottom and if I could lift the engine another 1/2" it might slide in easy. I've watched the vette dr video and tried the same motions, no go. Anyone got ideas?
well not sure or not but...I don't have American Racing but my LG's were the same exact way! I ended up putting them in from the topside and had to push the ac lines out of the way by via hamming down the header into place...I was really nervous and thought for sure the ac lines were going to crack going into the compressor but they seemed to have enough flex and then finally my header "dropped down" into place. What a sigh of relief that was.
2003 z06. I bought these headers because they were supposed to be easy to install. I guess I learned the hard way.
don't feel bad Lyle....I was in the same boat as you....I forked out $1200 for my LG streets and from everything I read, they should of been a dream to install....definitely wasn't the case for me....I spent 3 days getting that passanger side to drop down trying desperately and carefully so I wouldn't break anything. Just when you feel yourself losing control and getting mad..take a deep breath, back away from the car or take a mini break and then have at it again....that seemed to help me out a lot.
The headers will go in with the starter out and the engine jacked up but you will need to bend the metal flange on the underside of the car adjacent to the oil pan lower flange....They do fit without any flange bending on a 2002 Z06.
It is very tight from the bottom on C5 non Z as the oil pan flange is widerthan a Z.
HTH Ian
Lyle, You shouldn't have to raise the engine or beat them with a mallet. They go in when positioned correctly. We don't move the starter either but you need to make sure that wiring harnesses are not interferring. It's also good to press A/C line against frame for added clearance for the bigger tubes. Please take a minute to PM me or Tom a contact phone number and I'll call you ASAP. Thanks.
Thanks we try very hard to have the best customer service possible. It's funny because I finally put headers in my C5 ZO6 also 1-7/8's I did in my garage at home(no lift) it took a little longer but it went ok the pass. side is tight with the bigger primaries but it went in without to much fuss. I did remove all wires on that side (grounds,stater,sensors) and it went in.
Lyle, You shouldn't have to raise the engine or beat them with a mallet. They go in when positioned correctly. We don't move the starter either but you need to make sure that wiring harnesses are not interferring. It's also good to press A/C line against frame for added clearance for the bigger tubes. Please take a minute to PM me or Tom a contact phone number and I'll call you ASAP. Thanks.
Nick
yes, this is why i bought my headers from AR. everything i read was that they were easy as pie to install.
in my real-world install, this was not the case.
you can see several others who posted about having this same problem even "when positioned correctly".
Lyle, You shouldn't have to raise the engine or beat them with a mallet. They go in when positioned correctly. We don't move the starter either but you need to make sure that wiring harnesses are not interferring. It's also good to press A/C line against frame for added clearance for the bigger tubes. Please take a minute to PM me or Tom a contact phone number and I'll call you ASAP. Thanks.
Nick
Yep this is so very true...I really think a good recommendation would be for all the header company's to tell you this ahead of time so you know its a safe thing to do. I saw what I needed to do but sat there and played with it a good solid hour before working up enough nerve to really add some pressure to push the lines up close to the car and allow the header to fall into place. (I didn't remove the starter either).
I think the whole "they install easily" might just be the different perspective and experience people have on here. For me, (average handyman with no technical training on cars) I would rate the install a 2 out of 5 because of the hick up with the passenger header not wanting to go down without some fussing.
Overall I thought the installation went well on mine. I fumbled with the passenger side for a while but, like Tom said, once it was positioned correctly the header slid in.
I removed the starter and grounds. My problem was that I kept trying to install the header up through the area where I removed the starter (back edge of the header really close to the motor). It actually slid in place by putting the back edge of the header flange between the outside edge of the bellhousing and the tunnel. Once I did that, it went up.
One more note, be sure to chase the threads on the O2 bungs before installing the sensors. I had one seize up on me during installation.