ABS/Active Handling/Traction Control message ...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
ABS/Active Handling/Traction Control message ...
Quite sometime back, the DIC on my 2000 C5 would give me the message that something was up with Active Handling/Traction Control/ABS system. It would come on for short periods of time then go away. For about the last 7 or 8 months is hasn't been on at all. Granted I don't drive the car all that much, but recently it comes on when I start the car, but goes off about 20 minutes or so later. Then if I shut the car off for a while, it will come on again when restarted - most of the time.
Since I have about a month left on my GMPP plan, I took the car to the Chevy dealer to have it checked out. I just got a call that the problem is with the right front hub and harness and they had to order the parts to replace them. They will have them tomorrow and the car will be ready tomorrow afternoon.
Just wanted to check in with the real experts here and see if this sounded right. The car has a little over 52K miles on it. I went into the dealer thinking maybe it would be the Active Handling module.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Since I have about a month left on my GMPP plan, I took the car to the Chevy dealer to have it checked out. I just got a call that the problem is with the right front hub and harness and they had to order the parts to replace them. They will have them tomorrow and the car will be ready tomorrow afternoon.
Just wanted to check in with the real experts here and see if this sounded right. The car has a little over 52K miles on it. I went into the dealer thinking maybe it would be the Active Handling module.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Yeah, I should have check the dang codes before I took in. I was so jonesin' to the car to the dealer before my GMPP ran out that I completely forget about doing that.
Thanks Bill.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 149
Likes: 2
From: South Shore MA
i've had an eratic wheel speed code in the front before on mine and a customer's car, i just put some dilectric silicone grease in the connection and its been ok. however if the wss is bad then the hub has to be replaced as an assy. and some harnesses allow interference from things like the alternator cable or the spark wires, which isnt likely on our vettes but may warrant replacement. there may just be moisture, did you ok the repair?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
i've had an eratic wheel speed code in the front before on mine and a customer's car, i just put some dilectric silicone grease in the connection and its been ok. however if the wss is bad then the hub has to be replaced as an assy. and some harnesses allow interference from things like the alternator cable or the spark wires, which isnt likely on our vettes but may warrant replacement. there may just be moisture, did you ok the repair?
I hear that this isn't really a "cheap" fix if I had to pay for it.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
Likes: 87
From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I'd say that was a smart move
AH problems can be hard to fix and if the hub doesn't fix it they can keep on replacing parts
AH problems can be hard to fix and if the hub doesn't fix it they can keep on replacing parts
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,488
Likes: 1,743
From: Knoxville Tn
The problem can lie in several areas. The sensor itself is in the wheel hub and is about $200. the connectors can get corroded, the cable compromised or disconnected and the EBCM can go bad. One other cause is from SS brake lines that are not properly grounded via crush washers. These washers should be copper, not aluminum.
The EBCM is the most expensive item, however there is someone that can repair them for around $150. They are listed somewhere on this forum.
I had the problem, replaced a wheel hub/bearing and no fix. I then found an EBCM on this forum, still no fix. Then I found the thread here that mentioned the crush washers ($.50) and that id it. I spent about $350 and several hours, then fixed it with two 50 cent washers.
The EBCM is the most expensive item, however there is someone that can repair them for around $150. They are listed somewhere on this forum.
I had the problem, replaced a wheel hub/bearing and no fix. I then found an EBCM on this forum, still no fix. Then I found the thread here that mentioned the crush washers ($.50) and that id it. I spent about $350 and several hours, then fixed it with two 50 cent washers.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
The problem can lie in several areas. The sensor itself is in the wheel hub and is about $200. the connectors can get corroded, the cable compromised or disconnected and the EBCM can go bad. One other cause is from SS brake lines that are not properly grounded via crush washers. These washers should be copper, not aluminum.
The EBCM is the most expensive item, however there is someone that can repair them for around $150. They are listed somewhere on this forum.
I had the problem, replaced a wheel hub/bearing and no fix. I then found an EBCM on this forum, still no fix. Then I found the thread here that mentioned the crush washers ($.50) and that id it. I spent about $350 and several hours, then fixed it with two 50 cent washers.
The EBCM is the most expensive item, however there is someone that can repair them for around $150. They are listed somewhere on this forum.
I had the problem, replaced a wheel hub/bearing and no fix. I then found an EBCM on this forum, still no fix. Then I found the thread here that mentioned the crush washers ($.50) and that id it. I spent about $350 and several hours, then fixed it with two 50 cent washers.
