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trying to do the comparison to see if it would be more beneficial for the strip; to drop a 402 in the 2003 Z or to go with the head/cam package. What is the normal $$$ for a complete 402? I have seen some replacement 347 for around $2300.
My 408 short block, fully built to my specs, was about $4k. I reused my stock LS6 heads and intake, but did opt for a small cam. The added 50ci and cam/headers was good for 430rwhp and 450rwtq. H/C packages vary in over all HP, but I think the added cubes is the biggest gain? Once we have the $$, another cam and heads and a 500hp n/a motor can be had.
Another alternative is nitrous. I made my original LS6 into a 10 sec rocket, 100% bonestock with just a small dry shot. This can be done safely for under $1k.
Robert
I don't really know too much about Nitrous, but I want something that I can also drive around town. Something that if the need arises, i can step on it and feel the tq without having all the purging stuff to go through.
No substitute for cubic inches especially when you want drivability and power. You'll have much better response in every gear, every situation all the time with a 402 over a H/C 346.
Purging is really not needed when running a dry shot. with the advant of the NANO technology the bottle heaters are no longer needed. So a system that is always ready and on-line can certainly be done these days.
Now with that said, I do understand having the n/a power at a nice level for every day driving and am very happy with mine. Once you get your n/a power goals you could always add the extra N2O power later.
Robert
No substitute for cubic inches especially when you want drivability and power. You'll have much better response in every gear, every situation all the time with a 402 over a H/C 346.
So is $4K about right for a drop in 402 assuming I do all the install myself. Just wondering if i can then use my exsisting oil pan, water pump, headers, etc, or if I will need to purchase all of this, or if the drop in engine comes with all the neccessary equipment.
So is $4K about right for a drop in 402 assuming I do all the install myself. Just wondering if i can then use my exsisting oil pan, water pump, headers, etc, or if I will need to purchase all of this, or if the drop in engine comes with all the neccessary equipment.
All your accessories should work. I'm sure Robert can fill you in on the couple little details that you'll need to adapt.
I had a shop install mine for two reasons, first was an injured back, second was no lift as the motor comes out from the bottom in the cradle. However, i do know some have done it from the top. Most everything was plug and play. The only issue for the LQ9 was the reluctor wheel having a different number of teeth and not sure how the shop dealt with this, but they reused the LS6 one or modded the LQ9 one. Whom ever does your short block will have the answer/fix.
Robert
If your on a budget (and who isn't these days), you might want to consider going the forced induction (FI) route. Look at supercharger kits from ECS and A&A. Probably the best bang for the buck.
This is just hear say...but I once heard of a guy that ran nose to nose on the interstate (i know it's not drag racing) in his EB Z06 H/C/I (450rwhp) and 373 gears with a C5 that had a 434ci 520rwhp car from 70-140ish!!
I think RobZ has hit 9's with his H/C/I 346 stock bottom end and 410's!! Just food for thought!!
LME built it for 3995.00, though the price has know gone up. Scoggins has a 427ci short block for 3500.00. Competition is a great thing.
Robert
Are most GM motors, like the 402 or 427 bolt in? I use that term loosely knowing there is a lot more involoved, but i am curious if they require any MAJOR body/drivetrain modification. Will they bolt up to the clutch and other parts?
I had a nice H/C set-up (436/420 N/A, 576/590 on the bottle) in my LS1 Z28 and it was really fun. However, when I replaced it with a 383 (465/460 N/A, 650ish/650ish on the bottle) it changed the whole character of the car. Torque everywhere! I'd take the stroker everytime over the best H/C set-ups...
I'm still weighing what I want to do, but I'm seriously considering putting my Z16's LS6 on a stand and dropping in a 402/427, but FI is also tempting...
Are most GM motors, like the 402 or 427 bolt in? I use that term loosely knowing there is a lot more involoved, but i am curious if they require any MAJOR body/drivetrain modification. Will they bolt up to the clutch and other parts?
^^No body mods are needed. However, you will need or should upgrade drivetrain, which includes clutch, transmission, differential, axles. A lot depends on how hard you drive the car, and the type of driving you do.
Also, you need to change radiator. It's marginal at best and with bigger motor you will have a lot more heat to deal with.
What's going to be the best thing about the 402 is you're going to have torque everywhere. You won't have the loss of power down low. It's going to pull no matter where you are at in the power band. That is going to be my next step.
I went with you H/C/I first and it cost me about 6k for everything including install. Either way you go though you are going to be very happy I believe.