Charge System Fault error..
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Boise Idaho
Charge System Fault error..
I searched and came up with a few methods to try and eleviate this problem from the car but after today it still is giving me the error.
I took my battery off the car and charged it overnight on a battery tender, it was at 94% when I put it back in the car. Started it up and about 5minutes later I have the "CSF" error and 11.2v on the dash. So i took it to a tire shop and had them check it over and they say its still just fine and should be a problem.
So today I took the alternator off and had it tested and its fine, put the newly charged battery back on and still getting the error.
I dunno what to do, my engine bay grounds are all tight and I am getting frustrated becasue I cant have the car on for more then 20 minutes without it ****ting the bed.
Any Ideas ya'll?
I took my battery off the car and charged it overnight on a battery tender, it was at 94% when I put it back in the car. Started it up and about 5minutes later I have the "CSF" error and 11.2v on the dash. So i took it to a tire shop and had them check it over and they say its still just fine and should be a problem.
So today I took the alternator off and had it tested and its fine, put the newly charged battery back on and still getting the error.
I dunno what to do, my engine bay grounds are all tight and I am getting frustrated becasue I cant have the car on for more then 20 minutes without it ****ting the bed.
Any Ideas ya'll?
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 36,838
Likes: 438
From: Manassas Park VA
St. Jude Donor '07-'08,-'13-'14, '16-'17
I searched and came up with a few methods to try and eleviate this problem from the car but after today it still is giving me the error.
I took my battery off the car and charged it overnight on a battery tender, it was at 94% when I put it back in the car. Started it up and about 5minutes later I have the "CSF" error and 11.2v on the dash. So i took it to a tire shop and had them check it over and they say its still just fine and should be a problem.
So today I took the alternator off and had it tested and its fine, put the newly charged battery back on and still getting the error.
I dunno what to do, my engine bay grounds are all tight and I am getting frustrated becasue I cant have the car on for more then 20 minutes without it ****ting the bed.
Any Ideas ya'll?
I took my battery off the car and charged it overnight on a battery tender, it was at 94% when I put it back in the car. Started it up and about 5minutes later I have the "CSF" error and 11.2v on the dash. So i took it to a tire shop and had them check it over and they say its still just fine and should be a problem.
So today I took the alternator off and had it tested and its fine, put the newly charged battery back on and still getting the error.
I dunno what to do, my engine bay grounds are all tight and I am getting frustrated becasue I cant have the car on for more then 20 minutes without it ****ting the bed.
Any Ideas ya'll?
Get a new one...
Peace
Chip
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,956
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis In
A couple of things come to mind. First if the battery is dead, charging overnight with a tender ( trickle 2 amp or so) will only put a surface charge on the battery & not a good deep charge. 3 days on a 2 amp charger is needed.
2nd with a weak battery, start the car. Jump it if you have to. at idle turn on the air fan. Does the volt guage rebound from the fan being on? You will get a sudden drop in voltage on the guage but it should recover. Give it a bit of throttle (1500 rpm) & see if it rebounds then. If so, you have a diode weak. If it doesn't recover, either the diodes are bad or the regulator is bad, either way replace the alt. If it does recover with the fan on high then turn on the lights & hit the brake. You are now putting as much strain on the alt. as possible. If the car sputters, dies or acts funny, the alt. is weak.
You use to be able to disconnect the battery when the car was running to check the alt. but with the eletrionics today, you will throw ton of codes & possiblely mess up the EMC.
Good luck.
2nd with a weak battery, start the car. Jump it if you have to. at idle turn on the air fan. Does the volt guage rebound from the fan being on? You will get a sudden drop in voltage on the guage but it should recover. Give it a bit of throttle (1500 rpm) & see if it rebounds then. If so, you have a diode weak. If it doesn't recover, either the diodes are bad or the regulator is bad, either way replace the alt. If it does recover with the fan on high then turn on the lights & hit the brake. You are now putting as much strain on the alt. as possible. If the car sputters, dies or acts funny, the alt. is weak.
You use to be able to disconnect the battery when the car was running to check the alt. but with the eletrionics today, you will throw ton of codes & possiblely mess up the EMC.
Good luck.
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,515
Likes: 14
From: Gig Harbor WA
A couple of things come to mind. First if the battery is dead, charging overnight with a tender ( trickle 2 amp or so) will only put a surface charge on the battery & not a good deep charge. 3 days on a 2 amp charger is needed.
2nd with a weak battery, start the car. Jump it if you have to. at idle turn on the air fan. Does the volt guage rebound from the fan being on? You will get a sudden drop in voltage on the guage but it should recover. Give it a bit of throttle (1500 rpm) & see if it rebounds then. If so, you have a diode weak. If it doesn't recover, either the diodes are bad or the regulator is bad, either way replace the alt. If it does recover with the fan on high then turn on the lights & hit the brake. You are now putting as much strain on the alt. as possible. If the car sputters, dies or acts funny, the alt. is weak.
You use to be able to disconnect the battery when the car was running to check the alt. but with the eletrionics today, you will throw ton of codes & possiblely mess up the EMC.
Good luck.
2nd with a weak battery, start the car. Jump it if you have to. at idle turn on the air fan. Does the volt guage rebound from the fan being on? You will get a sudden drop in voltage on the guage but it should recover. Give it a bit of throttle (1500 rpm) & see if it rebounds then. If so, you have a diode weak. If it doesn't recover, either the diodes are bad or the regulator is bad, either way replace the alt. If it does recover with the fan on high then turn on the lights & hit the brake. You are now putting as much strain on the alt. as possible. If the car sputters, dies or acts funny, the alt. is weak.
You use to be able to disconnect the battery when the car was running to check the alt. but with the eletrionics today, you will throw ton of codes & possiblely mess up the EMC.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Boise Idaho
I had the fans, headlights, radio and car idling on and it was holding steady at 11.2 ish. I would be able to drive for a few minutes or even let the car idle for like 30mintues and then it the radio would freak out and the car would eventualy die out.
The analog gauge does not move much either no bouncing or 'rebounding' to what I can see.
The analog gauge does not move much either no bouncing or 'rebounding' to what I can see.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,956
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis In
I had the fans, headlights, radio and car idling on and it was holding steady at 11.2 ish. I would be able to drive for a few minutes or even let the car idle for like 30mintues and then it the radio would freak out and the car would eventualy die out.
The analog gauge does not move much either no bouncing or 'rebounding' to what I can see.
The analog gauge does not move much either no bouncing or 'rebounding' to what I can see.
Good luck.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Check the battery cable to the starter connection. It may have come lose on you or has become corroded. Remember that its electrically hot. Most causes of this error message are a bad battery or battery cable connection. There have been a few alternator failures but overall, very few reported here by the owners. Lots of bad batteries. The only time I saw that error on my '99 was right before the postive battery post fell off and started dumping acid. Fortunately for me, I was standing in front of it with the hood opened trying to figure out what caused the message when the battery let go.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Boise Idaho
picked up a new battery this morning and got the error right at startup. It holds at 11.8v at idle.
I guess ill put the car in the air and make sure all the starter wires are 'ok' and then I guess its the alternator.
I guess ill put the car in the air and make sure all the starter wires are 'ok' and then I guess its the alternator.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 13
From: Katy TX
St. Jude Donor '12
I've been getting this for a couple of years. Couldn't find any problems. My mechanic has been getting it in his Vette too - over multiple batteries. Both cars are daily drivers and both have no problems. I just ignore it. Probably not the answer you want, but it works for me so far!
chris
chris
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
When the battery is fully charged and driving down the road, typically you see anywhere from 13.8 to 14.3 on the DIC. With the car off, measuring the battery directly, you should see 12.5 on it at the posts. Reading 11.9 on the DIC is too low by a long shot. There are some simple tests you can perform on top of the voltage measurements. Try turning on the lights while monitoring the voltage. The voltage should drop off a hair and recover almost immediately. If it doesn't, bad alternator. Bill Curlee mentioned something about the main wire on the alternator itself had a bad connection causing the wire to change color. Also, the measured voltage on the DIC depends on a ground connection that is on the frame directly between the battery and the fuse box, down low. You might want to look at that.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Boise Idaho
Quick update today......
Went and bought a new battery and alt from autozone and threw them both on the car, 11.0v at idle. Something is wrong and i cannot seem to find it.
Drivers side ground from chassis to block - secure
All starter wires and ground to block - secure
Fuse box wires are all secure too, I dont know why its not a complete curcuit.
Please gimme some ideas guys.
Went and bought a new battery and alt from autozone and threw them both on the car, 11.0v at idle. Something is wrong and i cannot seem to find it.
Drivers side ground from chassis to block - secure
All starter wires and ground to block - secure
Fuse box wires are all secure too, I dont know why its not a complete curcuit.
Please gimme some ideas guys.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Quick update today......
Went and bought a new battery and alt from autozone and threw them both on the car, 11.0v at idle. Something is wrong and i cannot seem to find it.
Drivers side ground from chassis to block - secure
All starter wires and ground to block - secure
Fuse box wires are all secure too, I dont know why its not a complete curcuit.
Please gimme some ideas guys.
Went and bought a new battery and alt from autozone and threw them both on the car, 11.0v at idle. Something is wrong and i cannot seem to find it.
Drivers side ground from chassis to block - secure
All starter wires and ground to block - secure
Fuse box wires are all secure too, I dont know why its not a complete curcuit.
Please gimme some ideas guys.
What's the voltage at the back of the alternator with the new alternator installed ??
The PCM controls the alternator charge. If there is a difference in the gauge and the back of the alternator you need a Tech2 to correct it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Boise Idaho
I guess I just need an electrical tester to get the voltage at the back of the alt?
Whats reallly weird is that I bought this car with a bad headgasket and I put it back together and never saw this error, not once. Well the car ended up popping the #7 and I put it back together again and now its got this PITA code.
Whats reallly weird is that I bought this car with a bad headgasket and I put it back together and never saw this error, not once. Well the car ended up popping the #7 and I put it back together again and now its got this PITA code.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
I guess I just need an electrical tester to get the voltage at the back of the alt?
Whats reallly weird is that I bought this car with a bad headgasket and I put it back together and never saw this error, not once. Well the car ended up popping the #7 and I put it back together again and now its got this PITA code.
Whats reallly weird is that I bought this car with a bad headgasket and I put it back together and never saw this error, not once. Well the car ended up popping the #7 and I put it back together again and now its got this PITA code.
If they are both the same it's Tech2 time to adjust the PCM. This is one of my problems that I have since doing a bunch of re-wiring, conversions, etc.... on my car.