[Z06] Wheels studs??
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 0
From: . Kona, HI. Orem, UT. PSL, FL
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver Washington
12 X 1.5 threads.
ARP studs #100-7708 are 2.5" under the head with the same knurl and threads.
I don't know of any 1.5" ARP studs that would fit the C5.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
3/8" spacer You will also need open ended lug nuts. Stock lug nuts wont fit and hold the wheel on
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 939
Likes: 0
From: Clarksville TN
OK that's the Part Number I was looking at. I guess I saw the 12x 1.5 and had a BRAIN FART.
12.95 a set isn't bad AND this is more than enough for my 1/4" spacers.
It seems like I've read somewhere that you don't have to change the studs with 1/4" spacers, but I'd rather do it anyway.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver Washington
(Not that anybody asked but I found it interesting)
If you are trying to find stock C5 wheel studs from Gene Cully they are listed under part #9592032 which comes up as a wheel stud for the C4 Corvette, at about half the price of the local dealership.
(Ok, I suppose everybody knew this but me
)
If you are trying to find stock C5 wheel studs from Gene Cully they are listed under part #9592032 which comes up as a wheel stud for the C4 Corvette, at about half the price of the local dealership.
(Ok, I suppose everybody knew this but me
)
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 0
From: . Kona, HI. Orem, UT. PSL, FL
(Not that anybody asked but I found it interesting)
If you are trying to find stock C5 wheel studs from Gene Cully they are listed under part #9592032 which comes up as a wheel stud for the C4 Corvette, at about half the price of the local dealership.
(Ok, I suppose everybody knew this but me)
If you are trying to find stock C5 wheel studs from Gene Cully they are listed under part #9592032 which comes up as a wheel stud for the C4 Corvette, at about half the price of the local dealership.
(Ok, I suppose everybody knew this but me
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Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 25,889
Likes: 7
From: Virginia Beach
CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
A few things I've learned over the years... you shouldn't be breaking wheel studs unless:
1. You're over torquing them
2. You're a road racer and you're changing wheels/tires so much that they eventually wear out.
* 100 ft/lbs means 100 ft/lbs... not 100 and a little more!
* I've found that a tiny dab of anit-seize helps everything go on/off easily w/o gauling the threads.
* Don't remove the lugs w/ hot wheels/brakes at a track event.
* Everytime you torque a lug you you're stretching everything in place and creating friction to hold the lug on. Overtime the stud becomes distorted and you crossthread the lug taking it off. It'll go on fine, but after that's it's "done" and you have to replace the stud.
1. You're over torquing them
2. You're a road racer and you're changing wheels/tires so much that they eventually wear out.
* 100 ft/lbs means 100 ft/lbs... not 100 and a little more!
* I've found that a tiny dab of anit-seize helps everything go on/off easily w/o gauling the threads.
* Don't remove the lugs w/ hot wheels/brakes at a track event.
* Everytime you torque a lug you you're stretching everything in place and creating friction to hold the lug on. Overtime the stud becomes distorted and you crossthread the lug taking it off. It'll go on fine, but after that's it's "done" and you have to replace the stud.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
From: Mesa AZ
Good info, I was just getting ready to post about the ARPs. I'm running 5/16'' spacers on the stock studs and the back are more than ok but the front are a little risky with the wheels im running.
Do you need a press to install the studs or is this something I can do myself?
Do you need a press to install the studs or is this something I can do myself?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 2
From: Austin Texas
A quick note about studs: I put LONG studs in my car, to account for racing wheels (the centers are really thick) and spacers. It was impossible to get the studs in the hubs without pulling them. That means pulling ball joints, and so forth.
If you are using stock wheels, the shorter studs (2.5") are fine, and you can get them into the hubs on the front without pulling them. You will have to pull the backs, as the parking brake assembly will be in the way.
You do not need a press, though if you have the hubs out you may as well. If you do it on the car, you can stack up washers under a lug nut on the stud and just tighten it down until it's in.
Happy motoring.
If you are using stock wheels, the shorter studs (2.5") are fine, and you can get them into the hubs on the front without pulling them. You will have to pull the backs, as the parking brake assembly will be in the way.
You do not need a press, though if you have the hubs out you may as well. If you do it on the car, you can stack up washers under a lug nut on the stud and just tighten it down until it's in.
Happy motoring.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver Washington
I do track my car, I do pull the wheels when everything is hot (no choice with a cracked rotor), and I'm sure they get over torqued when the tech team checks already tight lugs. Think I'll try the anti seize and see if I can keep them operating a little longer. Thanks for the enlightenment.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 2
From: Austin Texas
Something about studs and lugnuts:
I use hand tools to break them loose, and a power tool to spin the lug nuts down, but a hand torque wrench to tighten them. I've broken two lug nuts in four years of road course driving. I've never broken a stud, but finally replaced my stock ones with ARP when I had a hub failure. I think that by using non-impact tools, I've increased the life of the components. I don't advocate that necessarily, because lug nuts are cheap enough that you can replace them every season, but it's interesting.
I use hand tools to break them loose, and a power tool to spin the lug nuts down, but a hand torque wrench to tighten them. I've broken two lug nuts in four years of road course driving. I've never broken a stud, but finally replaced my stock ones with ARP when I had a hub failure. I think that by using non-impact tools, I've increased the life of the components. I don't advocate that necessarily, because lug nuts are cheap enough that you can replace them every season, but it's interesting.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
From: Mesa AZ
A quick note about studs: I put LONG studs in my car, to account for racing wheels (the centers are really thick) and spacers. It was impossible to get the studs in the hubs without pulling them. That means pulling ball joints, and so forth.
If you are using stock wheels, the shorter studs (2.5") are fine, and you can get them into the hubs on the front without pulling them. You will have to pull the backs, as the parking brake assembly will be in the way.
You do not need a press, though if you have the hubs out you may as well. If you do it on the car, you can stack up washers under a lug nut on the stud and just tighten it down until it's in.
Happy motoring.
If you are using stock wheels, the shorter studs (2.5") are fine, and you can get them into the hubs on the front without pulling them. You will have to pull the backs, as the parking brake assembly will be in the way.
You do not need a press, though if you have the hubs out you may as well. If you do it on the car, you can stack up washers under a lug nut on the stud and just tighten it down until it's in.
Happy motoring.
Argh, So i guess I'm looking at having the hubs pulled then it seems. Does this require replacing the wheel bearings?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,063
Likes: 9,826
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
There isn't a lot of room behind the bearing flange to push the old stud out and install the new one. By pulling the bearing out of the knuckle as recommended by the Service Manual you can do the replacement quite easily.
Bill
Bill
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 0
From: . Kona, HI. Orem, UT. PSL, FL
A few things I've learned over the years... you shouldn't be breaking wheel studs unless:
1. You're over torquing them
2. You're a road racer and you're changing wheels/tires so much that they eventually wear out.
* 100 ft/lbs means 100 ft/lbs... not 100 and a little more!
* I've found that a tiny dab of anit-seize helps everything go on/off easily w/o gauling the threads.
* Don't remove the lugs w/ hot wheels/brakes at a track event.
* Everytime you torque a lug you you're stretching everything in place and creating friction to hold the lug on. Overtime the stud becomes distorted and you crossthread the lug taking it off. It'll go on fine, but after that's it's "done" and you have to replace the stud.
1. You're over torquing them
2. You're a road racer and you're changing wheels/tires so much that they eventually wear out.
* 100 ft/lbs means 100 ft/lbs... not 100 and a little more!
* I've found that a tiny dab of anit-seize helps everything go on/off easily w/o gauling the threads.
* Don't remove the lugs w/ hot wheels/brakes at a track event.
* Everytime you torque a lug you you're stretching everything in place and creating friction to hold the lug on. Overtime the stud becomes distorted and you crossthread the lug taking it off. It'll go on fine, but after that's it's "done" and you have to replace the stud.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 4,812
Likes: 46
From: Taylorsville North Carolina
Anyone know the die size for stud? Seem like I read where it is a good idea to run a die over it to remove small pieces of metal that get caught in the threads. When lugs are run on, the metal damages the studs. I think I will repl the fronts in mine seeing it is no big deal, but the rears - I wouldn't mind getting as much as I could.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver Washington
Anyone know the die size for stud? Seem like I read where it is a good idea to run a die over it to remove small pieces of metal that get caught in the threads. When lugs are run on, the metal damages the studs. I think I will repl the fronts in mine seeing it is no big deal, but the rears - I wouldn't mind getting as much as I could.
