When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anyway... about your brakes! I don't see you needing to bleed the fluid to change the rotors. Check the fluid though, if it's not clear, change it out since it needs to be done.
Anyway... about your brakes! I don't see you needing to bleed the fluid to change the rotors. Check the fluid though, if it's not clear, change it out since it needs to be done.
I would say that you shouldn't need to bleed the brakes; however, if your stock rotors are sufficiently warn down, you may have an issue fitting the new rotors in between the brakepads in the caliper; in which case you'll end up bleeding a little fluid out while compressing the pistons back a bit to make the clearance. I wouldn't recommend compressing the pistons without the bleed valve open, as I hear it is bad to backflush fluid through the ABS. But, if you can get away with the rotor change without having to open the bleed valve,then you won't need to bleed the brakes.
As mentioned above, you may want to bleed them anyway just to get new, fresh fluid in there!
Brake (break) fluid is cheap and the process of bleeding the system is simple, especially if you are changing rotors and pads already. I have always flushed my fluid after every track day, or when I am servicing the brakes.
Splurge the extra $20 for a can of ATE Super Blue (or similar) take the extra 20 minutes of your life and do it right the first time.
When you push the pistons back into the caliper to clear the new rotors or to replace pads, I think it is good practice to crack the bleed screw and let the old fluid go to the outside instead of pushing it back into the system.
This also keeps you from having to draw fluid out of the reservoir to keep from overflowing it when you push the fluid back into the system.