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My wife came home with the check engine light on. I checked the oil level and it was just at the lower end of the acceptable range. I added 1/2 quart. The light is still on.
What other simple solutions should I be checking?
This may sound funny but once or twice when I've actually let my girlfriend or my female cousin drive, the check engine light has come on. The next time when I drive, it usually goes off sometime during the drive if not the next time I start it. Whenever a guy drives the light has never gone on. Is the car that jealous of my lady friends? It has only gone on when a chick has driven it, probably three times in the last two years. I find it quite amusing.
This may sound funny but once or twice when I've actually let my girlfriend or my female cousin drive, the check engine light has come on. The next time when I drive, it usually goes off sometime during the drive if not the next time I start it. Whenever a guy drives the light has never gone on. Is the car that jealous of my lady friends? It has only gone on when a chick has driven it, probably three times in the last two years. I find it quite amusing.
No active or current codes. CE light still on. What next?
Codes:
U1160H
B2282H
B2284H
B2285H
P0442H
Edit. If the CE light is on shouldn't I have an active code displayed?
Last edited by Old Man in a C; Mar 26, 2009 at 08:23 PM.
From: Reno is so close to Hell you can see Sparks , State Of Confusion
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by lukeee
No active or current codes. CE light still on. What next?
Codes:
U1160H
B2282H
B2284H
B2285H
P0442H
Edit. If the CE light is on shouldn't I have an active code displayed?
No, I posted a link above and it tells you how to turn off the light.
Bill, I must be missing something. I read the link (several times). I see how to cancel all codes, but I didn't see how to turn the CE light off.
What did I miss?
Thanks,
Russ
Edit. Okay Bill, Got it! I had no active codes but I cleared all the historic codes and the light's out. I assume if I have a real problem it will pop a code tomorrow. Thanks again
Last edited by Old Man in a C; Mar 26, 2009 at 09:50 PM.
Ok now start it up drive it a bit and come back and check for codes again. It something is currently going on, then the code will reappear. From there we can go again.
Bill, I must be missing something. I read the link (several times). I see how to cancel all codes, but I didn't see how to turn the CE light off.
What did I miss?
Thanks,
Russ
Edit. Okay Bill, Got it! I had no active codes but I cleared all the historic codes and the light's out. I assume if I have a real problem it will pop a code tomorrow. Thanks again
Ignore tthe U code as its probably just a power glitch. The B codes are door lock related so unlikely to have caused a CEL.
My guess would be the P0442 is the offender. Was your gas cap on tight because that would cause it?
Here's a description of the check that failed.
Check your gas cap but I'd say you can rest easy unless it becomes a regular event
DTC P0442
Description
The EVAP small leak test applies vacuum to the evaporative emission (EVAP) system and monitors vacuum decay. The control module monitors the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor signal to determine the vacuum decay rate. At an appropriate time, the control module turns the EVAP canister purge valve ON (open) and the EVAP vent valve ON (closed). This allows the engine to draw a vacuum on the EVAP system. At a calibrated time, or vacuum level, the control module turns the purge valve OFF (closed), sealing the system, and monitors the FTP sensor input in order to determine EVAP system vacuum decay. If the system detects a leak larger than a calibrated amount, DTC P0442 will set.
Conditions for Running the DTC
DTC P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0125, P0443, P0449, P0452, P0453, P1106, P1107, P1112, P1114, P1115, P1120, P1220, or P1221 are not set.
The ignition voltage is between 10-18 volts.
The barometric pressure is more than 75 kPa.
The fuel level is between 15-85 percent.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
The start up ECT and IAT are within 9°C (16°F) of each other.
The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is less than 121 km/h (75 mph).
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The EVAP system can achieve a vacuum, but a vacuum decay is detected during the diagnostic test.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The control module will illuminate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) during the second consecutive trip in which the diagnostic test ran and failed.
The control module will store conditions which were present when the DTC set as Freeze Frame and Failure Records data.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The control module will turn the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) OFF during the first trip in which the diagnostic has been run and passed.
A last test failed (current DTC) clears when the control module turns OFF the MIL.
The history DTC will clear after the control module runs and passes 40 consecutive warm up cycles with no failure.
The DTC can be cleared by using a scan tool.
Diagnostic Aids
To help locate intermittent leaks, use the EVAP pressure/purge diagnostic station to pressurize the EVAP system. Move all EVAP components while testing with the J 41416 Ultrasonic Leak Detector.
Could have been the gas cap. That's the first thing I checked when wife brought the vette home. Didn't feel loose, but I gave it another twist to be sure. If it was loose, I assume that code and light would remain until cleared.
Thanks to all for your input.
Russ