What do you guys think of this setup. The LS3 will be heads and cam which put down 530WHP.

 

 

less talk more do!!!

 

Sounds good.
I was thinking about doing a max effort Ls3 in my c5Z as well. My goal would be 9.4x's.

 

Will give you guys some results with in the next few weeks. \
I found a 04 18,000 mile C5Z06 for $26K The car is cleaner than my 08 C6 with the same mileage.

 

modest???

 

please excuse my dumb question, but just curious: Can you just drop the LS3 in and change nothing else or do you have to swap out the tranny and other equipment to get to work in a C5? Please don't kill me for the question. I've had a '00 T/A for the last 5 years, and bought my 02 Z back in July last year and so I'm just curious.

 

No need to change anything but some wires.

 

Very cool idea.... If I ever need to this might be the path I take too. Lowest cost too I would think if u can find one from a low miles scrapped out C6.

Toque

 

I speculate w/ the Lingenfelter 24x reluctor wheel box this is possible

I doubt any in this thread or 99% of the members on this forum have actual experience installing a LS3 into a C5

 

not at all, he's already in the 9's with a 346.

 

I installed a forged 418ci LS3 motor in 2002 Z06. Engine builder put the motor together less the intake. I took out the old motor and dropped the new one in by myself. My very first engine swap! Let me know if you need any help. I went the cheaper route with ported L92 heads and ported L76 intake. The L76 intake requires some adapters for the injector wires which I hate and will try to clean up at some point, perhaps if/when FAST ever comes out with an L92 head intake. We failed with the cam specs and it only puts down 510rwhp. I did this build when it was still fairly new to use L92 heads and we just didn't know how picky the L92 heads are when choosing a cam. A buddy of mine did the same block, with ported AFRs and Fast intake and different cam and got 550rwhp.

Builder put in correct reluctor wheel so I didn't have to worry about that.

Couple issues:
- Went with Yella rockers on the L92 heads and my stock valve covers wouldn't fit.
- Need wiring harness for knock sensors which are mounted on lower part of block outside. Had a problem on driver's side with knock sensor wires hitting AR headers. Had to relocate the knock sensor but wished I did it before I put the block in and bolted up the header!!!
- Need wiring harness for LS2 TB
- Need wiring harness for crank sensor
- May need wiring harness for MAP sensor depending on location on new intake. L76 intake required longer MAP sensor wires, I believe the Fast does not.

- I replaced the LS6 water pump with LS3 and LS6 power steering pulley with LS3 which is metal and open design vs. plastic solid piece. Replaced all belts/hoses.
- Builder used my old front/rear engine covers, oil pan, pickup, windage tray, oil temp sensor. If I had it to do over I would have chosen another oil pan without the wings on the sides to give me more room to work.

- You can use your old MAF, cam sensor, oil pressure sensor (replace this however, as they go bad), map sensor.
- I used my old: starter, engine mounts/brackets, power steering pump, alternator, tensioners, AC compressor and tensioner.
- New crank pulley pinned

That's about all I remember, bellhousing fits just fine. I installed a Tex. OZ700 clutch and had the "can't shift at high rpms" issue. A new Tick adjustable master clutch cylinder took care of it.

Car runs great, sounds great, stock radiator running around 190 degrees on coolant, Oil temps run 235 cruising at 80 on the highway which is about 10 degrees warmer than I would like but not bad.

Paul.

 

Charlie at RPM is going to do the install.

 

Hi George,

My "modest" comment was some kind of entertaining...Robert knows me and will appreciate it for what it is.

Christian

 

I've done this swap and it's really pretty straight forward. As long as you get the cam/knock sensor relocation harness, make sure your short block has the 24x reluctor wheel on the crank , re-locate the knock sensors to the side of the block and notch the passenger side motor mount, it's pretty easy. All accessories bolt right up, including the stock oil pan, valve covers etc.
I went with AFR 225's and re-used the FAST 90 intake that I had on my 346 after having Pete from V-MAX port it and the 90mm TB.
I was very reluctant to go with the L92 heads mainly because of the lack of good cam choices available at the time I put my combo together. My combo is making great power and there is more there once we lean it out some. (currently running it pretty rich and very conservative with the timing too).
I'm pretty confident the car will run some very low 10's at 130+ once
I'm able to shift it at high RPM's. (Tick adj. master is on the way).
Car is an absolute beast on the street and with the custom 3" chambered exhaust I built sounds like nothing you've ever heard.
To say I'm happy with the results is a gross understatemant!

Jimbo

 

Thank you for all the info. Will I be able to use the oil cooler that is in the C5Z?

 

That's all you needed to say!!!

 

I would not have anyone else touch my car and I have learned that the hard way.
By the way what are the strength and weakness on the C5Z06 as far as drive line goes? I started with a C6 so not too familiar with the C5Z.

 

I tend to get defensive, sorry.

 

I'll be doing this too my C5, however I went with the LS1 reluctor on my crank, so that I don't need a converter box.