When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Many years ago, I bought a used Mazda from the (somewhat) local dealership. Two days later, I was at the Mall and when I came out, the car wouldn't start. I called the dealership and made sure that THEY picked up the car to troubleshoot it. You should accept nothing less - that's one of the benefits of buying from a dealership - responsibility for issues within the first 30 days. Hopefully, it is something simple. In my case, the starter was replaced.
They hit the courtesy lights switch an left it in the 'on' position???
Battery going south on ya?
Belt slipping and not charging?
Battery terminals not tight?
If it's been sitting on a car lot, chances are it's the battery but that light on the mirrow will drain it if the battery is low to begin with. I have been working on my car, doors open etc, and the battery would drain pretty fast even after I charged it up. Charger said it had a fault sometimes so finally turned it back into Costco and got 50% return on the old PP. It was 4.5 yrs old with a 100 month graduated warranty.
If you just take short trips it may not be enough to keep a battery up, and if you don't drive it for a couple weeks it will run a low battery down faster. Sounds like the battery to me but that will be affected by the other things above also. Your vole meter should show 13-14 in most cases if the alternater is charging.
How did you get it started? Charge battery or jumper?
Just checked the volt meter in the car with the new battery. It was runing pretty steady about 14.5 volts. FYI I run a 1000 Amp rated above 32 degrees and 850 cold cranking about $80+ at costco with 3yr full replacement and then graduated up to 100 months. You can pay some more and get the Optima....I have no experience with it but a lot of people here like it, just more money. Any will run down when sitting so a good charger and float charger is worth it.
Unless you have added an ammeter to your car, the factory meter is Voltage. ( and if you did add an ammeter that is very high amps to be seeing if the electrical system is working properly) It is common for the voltage to show above 14 Volts when you are driving under normal conditions and it has nothing to do with whether you have a 650 CCA rated battery or a 1000CCA rated battery. The alternator puts out somewhere in the mid 13's to mid 14's volts to recharge the battery as you drive along and that is what the factory meter is monitoring, alternator voltage. Voltage will usually fluctuate in that range...........
Thanks for that correction, there is of course a difference. If his car has a volt meter, I hope he was able to figured out what i meant. Looks like i was right on for "volts" not amps when running and I did not say the battery size CCA had anything to do with the alternator charging voltage. The FYI was just to indicate a larger CA & CCA might just serve him better overall with the vette. Hope this corrects it if he was confused. Maybe you can expand on the CA/CCA and the value thereof to him, which might be helpful to OP, in case he decides to buy a new battery.