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OK so I got my beautiful RPI (SLP) spoiler, I read and followed the instructions real carefully, the install went well until the very last section on the top edge, the lip on the leading edge is slightly taller there and the tape won't make contact for about a 12" section, and now the rest of the spoiler is on to stay. Has anyone else had this problem? If so how did you deal with it. I was wondering if their is a contact cement that might add just enough thickness to make contact if I could get it into the gap. Any feedback would be great. Thanks
I was under the impression that it's good to have it out in the sun for a while to heat it up and then while installing have some help to push down and hold it for a while as it sets. But I am not certain of this.
I would but the spoiler is in place and it is stuck on real good, I only have about a 16th of an inch between the spoiler and the deck lid with no way to get anything but a tooth pick between.
I just installed mine on Sunday. My son helped me. He is quite an expert with this type stuff. For 10 years as a young man he worked at a Trim Line Design shop which specializes in various accessories for cars and trucks. As a result, he is anti stick-on anything. He tried to talk me out of the SLP spoiler but I ordered it regardless, because it came painted to match...that was a biggee to me.
We put it on Sunday, temp 70 degrees outside and partly cloudy. After we finished, I had one spot to the left of center, on top, 2 inches long where the tape would not stay down. I also had a place on the left corner where the spoiler begins to turn down where it would not stick. MY FIX: First of all, I used an old portable halogen light to supply the heat and light. This worked great as a heat source. The 2 inch area on top, I cut another piece of 3M double sticky and finessed it under the spoiler with a small plastic spatula. Put the light on it and held pressure for about three minutes...Result: Stuck perfectly!
Now for the one inch area on the turn of the spoiler, I used the same small spatula to push one of the adhesive promoter pads into it and pulled it out, applied the halogen lamp for heat, waited about 3 or 4 minutes, and then applied steady pressure to it for another 3 or 4 minutes...Result: Stuck perfectly! As someone said earlier, when working with double sticky, heat and patience works miracles! Good luck, PM me if you ever have any questions using double sticky.
My biggest issue with the spoiler was that it had a flaw in it. I posted a question concerning it on Friday. Directly in the middle of the spoiler was a "crease" for the lack of a better term. Evidently caused by the mold it was formed in. It is very evident in the garage light, however, out in the sunlight most of it disappears. You cannot feel it but "Ray Charles could see it" in the garage light. I made numerous attempts to contact Josh at RPI Designs but as of yet he has never returned my messages.
Due to my lack of patience and the fact that it did look somewhat acceptable in the sunlight, I opted to install it. I have no doubt that Josh would have offered to redo it or replace it if I would have waited for him to find time to contact me. Even if he had that would have meant another 4 to 6 weeks before I could have it installed.
I am OK with it but would probably never do it again. One great thing, the paint match is outstanding. Mine is anniversary red and that is not the easiest paint to match but the spoiler is a perfect match.
My spoiler from RPI also had this noticable "crease" in the center. Paint match was great & I have it installed. However, in the right light, the crease is noticeable.
My spoiler from RPI also had this noticable "crease" in the center. Paint match was great & I have it installed. However, in the right light, the crease is noticeable.
Thanks guys! I feel better knowing it is more or less a commonality with the manufacturing of the spoiler. I hadn't heard any mention of it prior to receiving mine so I assumed I had one of a kind. I can deal with it a little easier now. I guess I would have to deal with it anyway since I already installed it. Have a great day guys!
i'm not critizing but the carravaggio spoiler ia much better looking and mine did not have any flaws. it is also reccommended the ALL add-on parts be test fitted BEFORE you make the final installation, that way you can see the flaws and the places that don't fit well and then act accordingly.
I had considered adding more tape but the section is only a 16th or less off the deck lid. I dont think i could even get more tape under there. anyone have any experience with contact cement that is water proof???
Should be getting mine here shortly. Looks like heat and patience is gonna be the key here. Will post up some picks when it is installed Oh by the way who long did it take for you guys to get your spoiler from payment till in your hand ? Just wondering.
Sorry to hear about all the probs with the spoiler guys. I got mine a few weeks ago, and installed it w/ no problems and the paint matched perfect!
Was really surprised on how well the tape stuck. There's no room for mistakes there. , , ,
I had considered adding more tape but the section is only a 16th or less off the deck lid. I dont think i could even get more tape under there. anyone have any experience with contact cement that is water proof???
My experience w/contact cement tells me it is too late for that. It needs to be applied to each surface, let sit till nearly dry, then push the piece down. In your case, that ship has sailed.
What comes to mind is clear silicone. Get a small toothpaste size tube & nip the tip off just slightly to get a pin size hole. You should be able to squeeze enough under to fill that gap & it will also bond. Clean up any excess w/lacquer thinner on a Q-tip. Be very careful as it is a strong solvent. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Dont get up set with small gaps, that is just the way they are.
I tried pushing it down, the lip on the spoiler is just too tall for the 3M tape to make contact with the deck lid. but I thought if I could get some contact cement on each surface and let that cure that might add just enough thickness for the two surfaces to meet.