Adjust the E Brake????????
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '08
Burning Brakes
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From: H-Town Texas
Melting Slicks
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From: Gastonia NC
St. Jude Donor '10
If you have ever worked on drum brakes you will know exactly what your doing. Fixed mine about a month ago and I only wished I'd done it sooner. Seriously a piece of cake. 
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Here is some information that was posted by two forum members (mchaney and Evil-Twin) a while back:
Take the rear rotors off and adjust the star wheels. Adjust the wheel until the brake pad started to make contact with the rotor and scrape a little as the rotor was put back on. There’s a little lip on the edge of the rotor so if you adjust it until it scrapes that lip, when the rotor is all the way on, it will still have clearance and not scrape.
Once a month, let your car roll backwards and pull-up hard on the emergency brake enough to slam the car to a stop. You only need to be going 1 or 2 miles per hour… do this three times. Each pull will make one click on the star wheel. You cannot over adjust it. It may only click once or not at all.
To start the procedure, make sure your parking brake is OFF (NOT engaged) and the car is in park or in gear. Just jack up and remove one of the rear wheels. Then remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper on. These are the two larger bolts around back, behind the rotor. Then just slide the caliper with shoes still attached off the rotor and set it on a box or some other object placed under the car. Don’t hang it by the brake line or otherwise it can cause stress to that line. The rotor should then pull right off the hub. If not, give the center of the rotor (near the lug stems) a whack or two with a hammer (don’t bang on the rotor surfaces).
I had to tap several times to loosen them up. Once you get the rotor off, you’ll see the little star wheel to the side of the giant brake shoe. You’ll see a small clearance between the star wheel and its “plunger.” The object is to expand this clearance. I used a sharp screwdriver, placed the blade between two of the teeth and tapped lightly with a hammer to turn the wheel (you should only have to tap very lightly). This just seemed to be the easiest method. Don’t use a fat headed screwdriver or tap too far each time because you don’t want the screwdriver to slip out of the notch and dent/strip the teeth on the wheel. If you are careful, this should work fine. I suspect they are all the same, so you would tap the wheel so that your screwdriver is going from right to left to open it up (increase the gap). As you open it up little by little, put the rotor back on a few times during this process to see when it starts to get tight.
When the brake shoe expands to the size of the outer lip on the rotor, it will start to get difficult to get the rotor back on as the shoe will scrape the lip as you put it back on. When you put the rotor back on, you should be feeling some resistance from the shoe as it scrapes the outer lip on the rotor. IF THERE IS A LOT OF RESISTANCE, DON’T FORCE THE ROTOR BACK ON!!! If you do and decide you want to back it off a little, you may not be able to get the rotor back off without pulling that big brake shoe off with it, and that could be a real pain. Just keep testing it with the rotor as you go and as soon as you feel a light resistance when putting the rotor back on, that should be good enough.
As a precaution, you can jiggle the rotor clockwise/counterclockwise on the hub just to make sure that it still turns freely. It should move a few degrees easily both ways as there is a little slack between the rotor and the lug stems, and some more slack in the CV’s. I doubt it is possible to over-adjust the mechanism and still be able to get the rotors back on because there is at least a 1mm lip on the inside of the rotor and that is what scrapes when you put the rotor back on, not the braking surface. Once you clear that lip, there should be plenty of slack so that the shoes don’t scrape the brake surface.
As they say, assembly is the reverse of the above. I would do both sides like this without messing with the parking brake lever in between. During the procedure when doing both sides in the rear, don’t fool with the brake lever (especially when the rotor is off).
There is also an adjustment that can be made at the e-brake handle that applies tension to the cable. If you would like a copy of that procedure, PM me your e-mail address and I'll forward it to you.
Take the rear rotors off and adjust the star wheels. Adjust the wheel until the brake pad started to make contact with the rotor and scrape a little as the rotor was put back on. There’s a little lip on the edge of the rotor so if you adjust it until it scrapes that lip, when the rotor is all the way on, it will still have clearance and not scrape.
Once a month, let your car roll backwards and pull-up hard on the emergency brake enough to slam the car to a stop. You only need to be going 1 or 2 miles per hour… do this three times. Each pull will make one click on the star wheel. You cannot over adjust it. It may only click once or not at all.
To start the procedure, make sure your parking brake is OFF (NOT engaged) and the car is in park or in gear. Just jack up and remove one of the rear wheels. Then remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper on. These are the two larger bolts around back, behind the rotor. Then just slide the caliper with shoes still attached off the rotor and set it on a box or some other object placed under the car. Don’t hang it by the brake line or otherwise it can cause stress to that line. The rotor should then pull right off the hub. If not, give the center of the rotor (near the lug stems) a whack or two with a hammer (don’t bang on the rotor surfaces).
I had to tap several times to loosen them up. Once you get the rotor off, you’ll see the little star wheel to the side of the giant brake shoe. You’ll see a small clearance between the star wheel and its “plunger.” The object is to expand this clearance. I used a sharp screwdriver, placed the blade between two of the teeth and tapped lightly with a hammer to turn the wheel (you should only have to tap very lightly). This just seemed to be the easiest method. Don’t use a fat headed screwdriver or tap too far each time because you don’t want the screwdriver to slip out of the notch and dent/strip the teeth on the wheel. If you are careful, this should work fine. I suspect they are all the same, so you would tap the wheel so that your screwdriver is going from right to left to open it up (increase the gap). As you open it up little by little, put the rotor back on a few times during this process to see when it starts to get tight.
When the brake shoe expands to the size of the outer lip on the rotor, it will start to get difficult to get the rotor back on as the shoe will scrape the lip as you put it back on. When you put the rotor back on, you should be feeling some resistance from the shoe as it scrapes the outer lip on the rotor. IF THERE IS A LOT OF RESISTANCE, DON’T FORCE THE ROTOR BACK ON!!! If you do and decide you want to back it off a little, you may not be able to get the rotor back off without pulling that big brake shoe off with it, and that could be a real pain. Just keep testing it with the rotor as you go and as soon as you feel a light resistance when putting the rotor back on, that should be good enough.
As a precaution, you can jiggle the rotor clockwise/counterclockwise on the hub just to make sure that it still turns freely. It should move a few degrees easily both ways as there is a little slack between the rotor and the lug stems, and some more slack in the CV’s. I doubt it is possible to over-adjust the mechanism and still be able to get the rotors back on because there is at least a 1mm lip on the inside of the rotor and that is what scrapes when you put the rotor back on, not the braking surface. Once you clear that lip, there should be plenty of slack so that the shoes don’t scrape the brake surface.
As they say, assembly is the reverse of the above. I would do both sides like this without messing with the parking brake lever in between. During the procedure when doing both sides in the rear, don’t fool with the brake lever (especially when the rotor is off).
There is also an adjustment that can be made at the e-brake handle that applies tension to the cable. If you would like a copy of that procedure, PM me your e-mail address and I'll forward it to you.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 1
From: Foresters Falls(near Ottawa) Ont
Once a month, let your car roll backwards and pull-up hard on the emergency brake enough to slam the car to a stop. You only need to be going 1 or 2 miles per hour… do this three times. Each pull will make one click on the star wheel. You cannot over adjust it. It may only click once or not at all.
There is no self adjusting feature for the parking brake. You can pull on the lever as many times as you want, it won't adjust the star wheel.
RonJ ...
There is no self adjusting feature for the parking brake. You can pull on the lever as many times as you want, it won't adjust the star wheel.
RonJ ...
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 18
From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
There is an automatic adjustment in the handle assembly that, according to my maintenance manual could be disabled with a rivet, cotter pin or zip-tie... Mine works pretty well actually except I roll in reverse 6 MPH and slam the handle up. The first time I did this I had to do it about 5 times before the E Brakes held strong, now it's just one or two pulls...
I would imagine this adjustment will only work so long before you have to actually tear into the rear brakes...
I would imagine this adjustment will only work so long before you have to actually tear into the rear brakes...
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 1
From: Foresters Falls(near Ottawa) Ont
First person who sends me or posts a picture of the parking brake self adjusting mechanism in the wheel assembly, I'll send you $10 ..... and not in Canadian dollars ..... LOL!!!
There is no parking brake self adjusting mechanism in the rear wheel unless it's in the very late model C5!!
RonJ ...
There is no parking brake self adjusting mechanism in the rear wheel unless it's in the very late model C5!!
RonJ ...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 1
From: Foresters Falls(near Ottawa) Ont
Nice try!!! I have pictures of an adjuster you turn yourself, I'll pay for a picture of an adjuster that adjusts itself when you back up and pull the lever!!!
Hey!!!! I just checked. That's the picture off my website!!! I thought it looked famliar.
Any chance that you're a lawyer??? ......
RonJ ...
Hey!!!! I just checked. That's the picture off my website!!! I thought it looked famliar.
Any chance that you're a lawyer??? ......
RonJ ...
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 18
From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Enabling the Park Brake Cable Automatic Adjuster
1. Raise the vehicle and support. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
3. Install the park brake cable to the park brake actuator, at both wheels.
4. Install the rear tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Repostion the carpet away from the parking brake lever.
7. Remove any rivet, drill bit, zip tie or cotter key from the park brake lever.
8. Install the park brake cable to the park brake lever.
9. Install the carpet to its original position.
10. Cycle the park brake lever up and down three times for automatic adjustment.
Tim
1. Raise the vehicle and support. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
3. Install the park brake cable to the park brake actuator, at both wheels.
4. Install the rear tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Repostion the carpet away from the parking brake lever.
7. Remove any rivet, drill bit, zip tie or cotter key from the park brake lever.
8. Install the park brake cable to the park brake lever.
9. Install the carpet to its original position.
10. Cycle the park brake lever up and down three times for automatic adjustment.
Tim
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 1
From: Foresters Falls(near Ottawa) Ont
Enabling the Park Brake Cable Automatic Adjuster
1. Raise the vehicle and support. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
3. Install the park brake cable to the park brake actuator, at both wheels.
4. Install the rear tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Repostion the carpet away from the parking brake lever.
7. Remove any rivet, drill bit, zip tie or cotter key from the park brake lever.
8. Install the park brake cable to the park brake lever.
9. Install the carpet to its original position.
10. Cycle the park brake lever up and down three times for automatic adjustment.
Tim
1. Raise the vehicle and support. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
3. Install the park brake cable to the park brake actuator, at both wheels.
4. Install the rear tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Repostion the carpet away from the parking brake lever.
7. Remove any rivet, drill bit, zip tie or cotter key from the park brake lever.
8. Install the park brake cable to the park brake lever.
9. Install the carpet to its original position.
10. Cycle the park brake lever up and down three times for automatic adjustment.
Tim
This is fun, but I'd best get back to work ... <G>
RonJ ...
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,987
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From: DuBois PA
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,283
Likes: 1
From: Eureka California
Once a month, let your car roll backwards and pull-up hard on the emergency brake enough to slam the car to a stop. You only need to be going 1 or 2 miles per hour… do this three times. Each pull will make one click on the star wheel. You cannot over adjust it. It may only click once or not at all.
There is no self adjusting feature for the parking brake. You can pull on the lever as many times as you want, it won't adjust the star wheel.
RonJ ...
There is no self adjusting feature for the parking brake. You can pull on the lever as many times as you want, it won't adjust the star wheel.
RonJ ...
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield CA
I just replaced the parking bands on my `01 vert and it has auto adjusters. It again was a P.I.T.A. getting the rotors off. I replaced the rotors and pads a short while back and discovered then that I needed park brake bands so I had to do the whole thing again. After I replaced the bands I manually turned the star wheel to get as close as possible, which was pretty much totally collapsed, and still get the rotors back on. I then climbed in and pulled hard on the brake lever two or three times and that puppy holds like it's planted with very little movement of the lever, maybe one or two clicks up is all.
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Although,
Honestly - I did learn more about my e-brake problem & that I'm gonna just adjust both, starting witht the e-brake cable adjustment @ the handle - just cause I know it's better to handle now than wait till it gets any hotter here; summer is just around the corner......
TO ALL!!!!! =
:
Last edited by JayBDUB661; Apr 25, 2009 at 04:49 PM. Reason: Spelling