body side moldings
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 18,681
Likes: 47
From: Reno is so close to Hell you can see Sparks , State Of Confusion
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
Well, I just finished taking them off! I used heat and the "goo gone" to prep and the fishing line trick to remove them. Worked out great and then used Mothers detail spray and clay bar then wax to finish up. It came out great with no lines showing you can't tell it ever had the moldings and looks much cleaner to me.
Thanks for the help.
Dave
Thanks for the help.Dave
[/QUOTE]
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
I don't get the rusty nails thing???
Well you've gotten lots of responses and suggestions.
I did this a few years back and used a hair dryer and some fishing line. Best to start at the small section at the gill, heat it up using back and forth motions (don't hold it steady) and then feed the string in and (I'd suggest using some gloves (preferrably shark skin water ski gloves
) and as mentioned use a sawing pulling motion to cut through the double sided tape that holds them on. Then I used a combination of Goo-gone (and 3M Adhesive Cleaner (spray can won't harm the finish) to hit the remaining double side tape and reheat it up and use your finger to roll the remaining pieces off (this also where the gloves come in handy). There will be a residue left over so there take a soft cloth and either goo gone or the 3M cleaner and remove the residue. A note of caution, don't try to wipe off the reside for a bit while it is warm, let it cool down again because the paint is soft when warm and you are more apt to scratch it.
Next go after the longer pieces. There you will heat up a small section at a time, feed in the string and cut to where you stopped heating it, heat up another section and continue. Most likely the BSM will hold in position after you cut it free. Run the string through one more time and gently lift it away if it hasn't fallen free. It generally will stay there sticking to itself. I recall expecting it to fall free when I finished cutting it through.
If you have a buffer like a PC-DA random orbital like a Porter Cable-7424, you could hit the area with something like a Zaino Z PC paint cleaner and then polish. Sometimes a line is left where the edge was and say some wax build up or dirt. Using the buffer and the Z PC (or 3M Swirl Mark Remover (called 3M Perfect-It) found at most car parts stores) will remove this line residue. You can also use these products by hand if you don't have a buffer, but the buffer is always the better way.
Take your time, don't rush the job and all should be fine.
Well you've gotten lots of responses and suggestions.
I did this a few years back and used a hair dryer and some fishing line. Best to start at the small section at the gill, heat it up using back and forth motions (don't hold it steady) and then feed the string in and (I'd suggest using some gloves (preferrably shark skin water ski gloves
) and as mentioned use a sawing pulling motion to cut through the double sided tape that holds them on. Then I used a combination of Goo-gone (and 3M Adhesive Cleaner (spray can won't harm the finish) to hit the remaining double side tape and reheat it up and use your finger to roll the remaining pieces off (this also where the gloves come in handy). There will be a residue left over so there take a soft cloth and either goo gone or the 3M cleaner and remove the residue. A note of caution, don't try to wipe off the reside for a bit while it is warm, let it cool down again because the paint is soft when warm and you are more apt to scratch it. Next go after the longer pieces. There you will heat up a small section at a time, feed in the string and cut to where you stopped heating it, heat up another section and continue. Most likely the BSM will hold in position after you cut it free. Run the string through one more time and gently lift it away if it hasn't fallen free. It generally will stay there sticking to itself. I recall expecting it to fall free when I finished cutting it through.
If you have a buffer like a PC-DA random orbital like a Porter Cable-7424, you could hit the area with something like a Zaino Z PC paint cleaner and then polish. Sometimes a line is left where the edge was and say some wax build up or dirt. Using the buffer and the Z PC (or 3M Swirl Mark Remover (called 3M Perfect-It) found at most car parts stores) will remove this line residue. You can also use these products by hand if you don't have a buffer, but the buffer is always the better way.
Take your time, don't rush the job and all should be fine.
Last edited by Jet-Jock; Jun 5, 2009 at 06:46 PM.
