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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 03:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bluefire
Good catch. Thankfully it was a typo I meant 175 - 185.

I was going to say "someone needs an oil cooler!"

Originally Posted by Bluefire
I have heard that you never want to power flush an auto transmission. You could knock loose built up tarnish from the inside and it could clog up your valve body. I'm not a A4 expert, but I would like to know if it is true.
I've been told this too. Not sure what the rule is on MN6's tho...

Last edited by DevilMan02; Jun 10, 2009 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 05:51 PM
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Default RTI Fluid excanger!!!

Originally Posted by Bluefire
I have heard that you never want to power flush an auto transmission. You could knock loose built up tarnish from the inside and it could clog up your valve body. I'm not a A4 expert, but I would like to know if it is true.
The Machine we use is a FLUID EXCHANGER!!!!! I havent seen or ever used a POWER FLUSH TYPE!!! I believe in this type machine as it removes old fluid and adds new fluid back to the pan thru the cooler line to the front... Hook into line, crank car and check for line pressure, It wont work if hooked up backwards.... Hit drain pan, then it beeps very loud as pressure starts to fall just a # or 2!!! Remove pan, change filter.. install pan.. Then hit refill and it automatically adds the same amount of fluid removed (via load cells in the tanks)....

Then hit the 4-8-12-16-20 quart button and it will pull the old coming out and replace to the pan with new...... Using the car running with the trans pump for the infusion...Totally safe and you can exchange until it is clear in the sight glasses... Very cool and we havent lost a tranny yet... If new flluid will hurt it then should we never change the fluid, that wouldnt make sense would it. I can agree with the varnish, but we scrutinize the condition of thwe trans and of course the mileage.....Just my .02 Plus im in on the tranny temps......
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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Mine will run within a couple of degrees of the water temp. in the summertime. I went up to the bi-plane fly in at Bartlesville last Saturday and it was a warm 91 degrees and the trans. temp got up to between 196-201, same as water temp.. I am stock everything with an A4 transmission. I will tell you this if the transmission temperature ever gets to or exceeds 250 you will know it as bells go off and the DIC lites up. This happened to me a couple of years ago just before the transmission went out.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 08:55 PM
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Mine is the automatic. Where would you guys recommend i go to have the transmission fluid completely switched over to royal purple? So, 12 qts of Royal Purple I need to bring, and what else...(sorry, totally a newbie hear) which is why i have my vehicle's maintenance done somewhere else.
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 11:06 AM
  #25  
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Ahhhh, high a4 tranny temps, the bane of my life! Many mods done to car and eng. so, more heat. Have a B&M maxicool with fan installed and it's working fine untill outside air temps go beyond 80s and if I'm running around town with lots of stop and go or stuck in traffic...then the temps will start rising and go beyond 200..but nowhere near as bad as before installing cooler. Anyway, I've elected to install another B&M maxi cooler w/o fan(maybe a mistake) at the rear of the car and hopefully this will do the trick. I will post once it's been installed and I can see how it's working out.
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JOEY CARTEE
The Machine we use is a FLUID EXCHANGER!!!!! I havent seen or ever used a POWER FLUSH TYPE!!! I believe in this type machine as it removes old fluid and adds new fluid back to the pan thru the cooler line to the front... Hook into line, crank car and check for line pressure, It wont work if hooked up backwards.... Hit drain pan, then it beeps very loud as pressure starts to fall just a # or 2!!! Remove pan, change filter.. install pan.. Then hit refill and it automatically adds the same amount of fluid removed (via load cells in the tanks)....

Then hit the 4-8-12-16-20 quart button and it will pull the old coming out and replace to the pan with new...... Using the car running with the trans pump for the infusion...Totally safe and you can exchange until it is clear in the sight glasses... Very cool and we havent lost a tranny yet... If new flluid will hurt it then should we never change the fluid, that wouldnt make sense would it. I can agree with the varnish, but we scrutinize the condition of thwe trans and of course the mileage.....Just my .02 Plus im in on the tranny temps......
Thank you for the response. As an engineer I am compelled to ask how you scrutinize the transmission condition and its mileage. What is the criteria that determines when the varnish is so bad that you won't flush one?

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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by urfubar
Mine is the automatic. Where would you guys recommend i go to have the transmission fluid completely switched over to royal purple? So, 12 qts of Royal Purple I need to bring, and what else...(sorry, totally a newbie hear) which is why i have my vehicle's maintenance done somewhere else.
I took mine to a local Corvette performance shop. Had mine switched out to RP also.

-Alex
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 02:35 PM
  #28  
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Default Trans Temps

I have 3.73 and a 3600 stall. Trans temp were a problem even with large capacity tranny pan and large external cooler. I stopped running the cooling lines thru the radiator and they go only to the trans cooler. My trans temps are never over 185 degrees even with the supercharger and driving it hard. They say that is bad to do this for winter driving but I think that is BS. Even in the winter my trans temps go right up with the start of the car to around 120 degrees. Heat kills these transmission and I think that bypassing the radiator is the way to go IMHO

Brian

Last edited by brian vette; Jun 11, 2009 at 03:05 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 02:47 PM
  #29  
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Personally I don't see why Chevrolet even designed the cooler to go through the radiator in the first place. Works fine for regular cars but, sports cars!? Way to go Chevy.

-Alex
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #30  
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I don't think you want it running above 200 for too long.
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 03:20 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by EStreeter
I don't think you want it running above 200 for too long.
Unnavoidable.

-Alex
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by brian vette
I have 3.73 and a 3600 stall. Trans temp were a problem even with large capacity tranny pan and large external cooler. I stopped running the cooling lines thru the radiator and they go only to the trans cooler. My trans temps are never over 185 degrees even with the supercharger and driving it hard. They say that is bad to do this for winter driving but I think that is BS. Even in the winter my trans temps go right up with the start of the car to around 120 degrees. Heat kills these transmission and I think that bypassing the radiator is the way to go IMHO

Brian
Running too cold is just as bad as running too hot. If you drive in cold temperatures, you should definitely run it through the radiator after running through an external cooler. This is how I installed the trans cooler in my truck.. worked great in both summer and winter.

If you drive in nice weather only (no freezing, etc.) then feel free to run it through only an external cooler. This is how I have it set up on the fiance's LS1 T/A with a 3500 converter. She doesn't drive unless there's not a cloud in the sky though.. so its always nice when that car is out

Ideal trans temp = 160-185ish
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 11:12 AM
  #33  
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Here is possibly a dumb question how are you guys knowing what your trans temps are? I have a 02 non-Z06 6 speed and i'm currently converting it over to an automatic do i have to get an aftermarket trans temp gauge? I don't believe my DIC displays trans temps, just oil temp etc.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 11:20 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Ksths2
Here is possibly a dumb question how are you guys knowing what your trans temps are? I have a 02 non-Z06 6 speed and i'm currently converting it over to an automatic do i have to get an aftermarket trans temp gauge? I don't believe my DIC displays trans temps, just oil temp etc.
Manual cars do not have a factory Trans temp gauge. You'd have to get an aftermarket one.

-Alex
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 04:18 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by EStreeter
I don't think you want it running above 200 for too long.
Mine runs 200* with all the mods and built A4 with 2800 stall. I'm not worried.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 11:09 AM
  #36  
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since the same computer is used for the auto and manual, and currently i'm having my computer reflashed so all the auto stuff inside will be turned on is the temp gauge an option that gets turned on as well?
If so, where is the temp sensor in an A4 or is it located somewhere else?
Thanks!
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #37  
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You are really at the mercy of the water temp in your radiator. The other morning I ran the car 75-80 MPH for about 10 miles and then hit dead stand still traffic for about 15 min. I didn't have the AC on and noticed my cooling temperature had shot up to 225. I immediatelly turned the heat up all the way and fan on high. Yes, it got HOT in the car but I was worried about the engine. I ran through my ohter temps, i.e. oil, and tranny and they were up over 200 as well.

When traffic let up, I drove and the temps came down to 195 and the oil and transmission came down as well.

When I got back to the office I got on the forum and found out this is completely NORMAL!

Heck, the electric fans don't kick on till you hit 225 degrees and the 2nd fan kicks on at 235 degrees! This is by design.

I did find out if I would have turned on the AC, both fans would have kicked on regardless of the engine temperature.

So, bottom line is that if you are not going over say 250 degrees don't sweat it!
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by CatCam
You are really at the mercy of the water temp in your radiator. The other morning I ran the car 75-80 MPH for about 10 miles and then hit dead stand still traffic for about 15 min. I didn't have the AC on and noticed my cooling temperature had shot up to 225. I immediatelly turned the heat up all the way and fan on high. Yes, it got HOT in the car but I was worried about the engine. I ran through my ohter temps, i.e. oil, and tranny and they were up over 200 as well.
This.

Originally Posted by CatCam
When I got back to the office I got on the forum and found out this is completely NORMAL!

Heck, the electric fans don't kick on till you hit 225 degrees and the 2nd fan kicks on at 235 degrees! This is by design.
I've wondered why Chevrolet designed it this way. That heat under the hood can become quite abusive to other underhood parts. Such as the radiator overflow tank. Known to give way due to excessive heat.

Originally Posted by CatCam
I did find out if I would have turned on the AC, both fans would have kicked on regardless of the engine temperature.

So, bottom line is that if you are not going over say 250 degrees don't sweat it!
True but also keep in mind that if you have the AC on, there's a different degree to how hard the fans are going to work depending on your AC setting.

For example, if your car is baking at 220F and you turn on your AC to 60F on the lowest speed, both fans being on isn't going to bring down your motor temps. But if you turn your AC on to full blast at 90F, then you will see the water temp fall very quickly.

-Alex
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