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I'm getting my rims powder coated on Monday so I called up my friend to help me jack my car up tomorrow. This will be my first time doing this on one of my cars, so I'm somewhat worried to be honest..lol. He's bringing his stuff to do it and doesn't think it'll be that bad. It's going to have to sit there for at least 3 days and I just don't want anything to go wrong. Does anyone have any tips for me before I do this? I've searched but just wanted to see what I could get here.
I drive the car up on some 2x4's, then jack up the side of the car first (car is lowered so front and back are not at option), then get under the front until I can put it on Rhino ramps. After that, I lower the front so the wheels are on the Rhino ramps and then take another low profile jack to the rear crossmember and get that off the ground enough to get some jack stands underneath. Then back to the front to get it off the Rhino Ramps and onto jack stands. It's a major PITA but only takes me about 15 minutes now since I have it down to a science!
There's no great mystery to jacking up the C5 providing you take care. The stuff you hear about doors open or closed when jacking don't apply to the C5. Its frame is rigid enough to take the strain.
The main point has already been made by CULookin. The rocker panels are glued to the frame and any direct contact between the jack and the panels will crack them. Its vital to use a jacking puck if you jack from the side. You can buy them from some Forum vendors or make a DIY version with a hockey puck and an eye bolt. I have the Elite pucks which are linked above. Awesome engineering BTW.
There are other points on the frame which you can see from the pic. I use some wood on the jack to make sure I get a good lift.
And the obvious - make sure its well supported when its up in the air.
I went out and purchased a hydrolic jack at PEP BOYs with the lowest arm, $59.00. Went to Harbor Frieght and purchased clear wheel castings, then I removed the housing from the semi-hard clear wheel and used them as pucks for lifting the vette, $3.99. You don't need to purchase those expensive lifting pucks, the McGiver way works fine...
Hi There:
Expensive black hockey pucks are $1.00 a piece. lol You could cut a set out a 2x4, 2x6, 2x10,2x12 scraps, with a 3" keyhole saw with a mandrel that fits in a drill. The eyebolt size is 5/8" Pre- drill the wood or you,ll crack it.You will want to drive the car onto 2x12s to raise the car to allow for clearance of a low profile & standard floor jacks to fit under the h/pucks.I like the h/pucks better,but both will work.
robsc501
Last edited by robsc501; Jun 23, 2009 at 11:04 PM.
I installed these frame savers as one of my first mods. IMO some of the best money I've spent on the car. A few techs at the dealership as well as a local mod shop liked them as well.
Use the lifting locations described in the service manuals.
There are many posts here that will guide you through building ramps and jacking pads for both of the front ( there are two ) and the rear service lifting points.
Cost is about $20 , Lowes will even cut the pieces to length for FREE.
Assembly time about 2 hours.
You will have safe easy to use ramps.
The only other thing you will need is a floor jack.
Hi There:
Expensive black hockey pucks are $1.00 a piece. lol You could cut a set out a 2x4, 2x6, 2x10,2x12 scraps, with a 3" keyhole saw with a mandrel that fits in a drill. The eyebolt size is 5/8" Pre- drill the wood or you,ll crack it.You will want to drive the car onto 2x12s to raise the car to allow for clearance of a low profile & standard floor jacks to fit under the h/pucks.I like the h/pucks better,but both will work.
robsc501
Wood works just fine too. You actually don't even need pucks if your jack's pad is small enough, and you're very careful not to pinch the body panels. I like the pucks though. They give me a nice easy target.
There's no great mystery to jacking up the C5 providing you take care. The stuff you hear about doors open or closed when jacking don't apply to the C5. Its frame is rigid enough to take the strain.
The main point has already been made by CULookin. The rocker panels are glued to the frame and any direct contact between the jack and the panels will crack them. Its vital to use a jacking puck if you jack from the side. You can buy them from some Forum vendors or make a DIY version with a hockey puck and an eye bolt. I have the Elite pucks which are linked above. Awesome engineering BTW.
There are other points on the frame which you can see from the pic. I use some wood on the jack to make sure I get a good lift.
And the obvious - make sure its well supported when its up in the air.
Here's the diagram of the jacking points
Best of luck
Hey DeeGee,
You are always helping somebody and that's great. I remember when you helped me when I was trying to reprogram my TPS sensors, got them done thanks for the tip about a LARGE magnet, the little ones don't work. But, back to the subject, I spent my money on the BMW hockey type pucks that snap in the holes provided in your frame, then forget about them until you need to jack the car up. I also bought 2 aluminum low profile jacks from Sears, one on each side of course, pull the car up on ramps, jack up each side a little at a time until the desired height, and use my jack stands. I'm always doing something under there, naps, etc. keeps the wife from giving me projects around the house. You can save money by buying one jack and going back and forth, but it was money well spent and I guess, if one quits working, I have one left. Sears was discontinuing selling this model, normally $150, I bought each one for $85, so I almost got 2 for 1 anyway. Also. you can save money by the hockey puck method but it is a Vette, so it deserved the BMW pucks, would have bought Vette pucks if they made them good luck .......
So true the ends where the pucks go were, per factory, not really intended for primary jacking of the vehicle. But with that said, I'd rather have my jacks as far apart from the center when working under a vette wrenching hard; I can just see the vehicle tipping over to one side or the other, so I rather have my jacks on the far side than directly under that close per vehicle spec. PS I rather never be under the vette at all, since it is so low, I can just imagine the damage to my body... Put something under the wheels and be done with it, that is the best place to jack up a vette.
So true the ends where the pucks go were, per factory, not really intended for primary jacking of the vehicle. But with that said, I'd rather have my jacks as far apart from the center when working under a vette wrenching hard; I can just see the vehicle tipping over to one side or the other, so I rather have my jacks on the far side than directly under that close per vehicle spec. PS I rather never be under the vette at all, since it is so low, I can just imagine the damage to my body... Put something under the wheels and be done with it, that is the best place to jack up a vette.
on all counts
I actually keep a pair of old beat up steel rims that I slide under cars I'm working on. They won't squish as easily as me.
I actually keep a pair of old beat up steel rims that I slide under cars I'm working on. They won't squish as easily as me.
This is a great idea. Like most folks, I don't have a lift. I have to do everything under the car on jackstands. I need to get me some old wheels like you say you use. I always leave the jack but slightly take the pressure off of it, in addition to jackstands.
You never know though, and like you say, this thing is so low to the ground that you would certainly be hurt badly if it were to fall on you. The wheels would prevent it from coming down all the way.
Hi, i had a similar problem when I first got my vette. Like others I made some ramps which when driven onto gives just enough height to get my trolley jack under. I also cut some timber that fits in between the chassis rails. I then use this to position the jack and ultimately the axle stands. Hope the pic helps.
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