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All GM engines that you could put in your car will run with the same reliability as the LS6. Better in some cases. You will need a competent tuner to change the PCM tune for the new engine if it's not an LS6, but c'est la vie.
Er..um..
GM tests each production car with the motor it designed to have in it (and the power levels it had designed). any variation will subject parts to threshold levels above what was initially anticipated.
Adding more power to a car is more involved than just adding power to the motor if you want to keep the same reliability.. things down stream tend to get stressed.. been through this on a few of my drag cars and my old stroker motor cars.. for ease of maintenance and reliability its tough to beat the work that many..many engineers did over the course of several years..
DEFINITELY get your car away from a GM dealership!!! They screw up cars BIG time and don't answer for it.
I got a motor that came from a supporting vendors shop that was a time bomb. They didn't make good for it and when I said something my posts got deleted. Not all "specialty" shops are created equal. Luckly Cartek was able to fix the time bomb I got.
I would be carefuly who you buy a motor from. Some of those places are just pumping them out as fast as they can build them. Quality control costs them money I guess.
GM tests each production car with the motor it designed to have in it (and the power levels it had designed). any variation will subject parts to threshold levels above what was initially anticipated.
Adding more power to a car is more involved than just adding power to the motor if you want to keep the same reliability.. things down stream tend to get stressed.. been through this on a few of my drag cars and my old stroker motor cars.. for ease of maintenance and reliability its tough to beat the work that many..many engineers did over the course of several years..
the LS6 is plenty fast already!
Production parts are a compromise of strength, cost, and producability. You can get stronger internals, put together with greater control over the assembly tolerances, and for the same money as a mass produced engine if you have one built. You don't need to substantially increase the power but if the motor is built for it... down the road you can use it.
As for maintenance and reliability... how are stronger pistons going to negatively effect the work of many..many Engineers? Sure, throw 1000hp at a stock drivetrain and things will not last but if you are going threw the trouble of rebuilding the engine why not use better parts?
From: Reno is so close to Hell you can see Sparks , State Of Confusion
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
I don't think is fair to say that the dealerships arn't the place to go, The GM shop here is Reno has a great service shop and the Vette mechanic Walt is top notch. I have had great service from the dealer with all my dealings. I am sure there are some that don't have a clue, But that is true with any shop.
If it were me I would get the LS6 replaced with the same, It is nice knowing you have a warranty.
JMO.
Bill K
I don't think is fair to say that the dealerships arn't the place to go, The GM shop here is Reno has a great service shop and the Vette mechanic Walt is top notch. I have had great service from the dealer with all my dealings. I am sure there are some that don't have a clue, But that is true with any shop.
If it were me I would get the LS6 replaced with the same, It is nice knowing you have a warranty.
JMO.
Bill K
Here where I'm at, GM/Bryner Chevrolet is the best Corvette dealership within a short distance to do work on my Corvette, as it's on GMPP warranty. But most of all is the Technican, Mr. Spencer is an ace when it comes to Corvettes. Plus the dealership itself, treats you like the person who paid $50K for a Corvette. Car comes out of the service bay cleaner than when it went in. Great service and experienced service manager, which means a lot when your corvette is hanging five feet off a lift.
GM tests each production car with the motor it designed to have in it (and the power levels it had designed). any variation will subject parts to threshold levels above what was initially anticipated.
Adding more power to a car is more involved than just adding power to the motor if you want to keep the same reliability.. things down stream tend to get stressed.. been through this on a few of my drag cars and my old stroker motor cars.. for ease of maintenance and reliability its tough to beat the work that many..many engineers did over the course of several years..
the LS6 is plenty fast already!
LQ9 = 345 hp
LS2 = 390-400 hp
03 LS6 = 405 hp
LS3 = 430 hp
I think the GM engineers won't object if the OP chooses a non-LS6 power plant
LS3 FTW! Easier to make power and still makes more power than the LS6 if you're not modding. The GM hot-cam for the LS3 makes 480HP. I'd go with the LS3 with a hot cam if I were the OP unless the LS6 is rebuildable.
I read all your posts. I would go with a used ls6 engine from a trusted forum member such as the one that posted here. You will save a ton of money, and have either GM or a high performance shop install it and warranty their install work at least until you see everything is running right. You should have no problem with a low mile good used engine, as long as it has lower miles than your car you are fine and that way it wont be a problem when you go to sell it. These engines commonly are fine without anything but oil changes up to 150k miles so yours was a fluke unless the last owner modded it or beat on it without telling you
LQ9 = 345 hp
LS2 = 390-400 hp
03 LS6 = 405 hp
LS3 = 430 hp
I think the GM engineers won't object if the OP chooses a non-LS6 power plant
Usually when people sawp in motors other than stock, they swap in more HP which exceeds the initial design specifications of the remaining components. I've never heard of someone swapping in a non-stock motor that has less HP unless it was some beater...
its very easy if your paying big $$ for forged and upgraded internals to do things like.. "ahh what the hell.. throw a little bit bigger cam in there, and bump the compression up a bit"..etc..etc.. and thats fine.. I've done it plenty of times on many cars.. but for the OP.. the most predictable thing (and reliable) is going with the stock motor.. which is a beast already..
then there is the whole resale issue to consider.. etc..etc..
Blocks normally do not crack and rods don't punch holes through them without a real cause and so on. No, not saying a rod went through it. May I inquire as to how its been driven? Mods? Obviously something real bad happened. Had a guy here at the complex where I live, Chev. Beretta, his crankshaft broke in half! Crap happens but not usually on the LS series of motors.
I'm going to have to agree with replacing this thing with a stock LS6. Its much easier to sell and a custom block will probably only be warrantied by that particular builder. I still find it suspicious that the dealer can't tell you where its leaking.
Usually when people sawp in motors other than stock, they swap in more HP which exceeds the initial design specifications of the remaining components. I've never heard of someone swapping in a non-stock motor that has less HP unless it was some beater...
Considering the OP's concern about prices, it would be easy to imagine swapping in a low mile LS2 for less than half the price of an LS6 installed by the dealership.
Originally Posted by Z06_BluByU
its very easy if your paying big $$ for forged and upgraded internals to do things like.. "ahh what the hell.. throw a little bit bigger cam in there, and bump the compression up a bit"..etc..etc.. and thats fine.. I've done it plenty of times on many cars.. {snip}
then there is the whole resale issue to consider.. etc..etc..
Ah, we are in complete agreement on this part. In my original post, however, I said any GM motor, which I guess was unclear. Even a crate LS3, however, would be fine (it's less than 10% over the LS6, and allowing for variance in the engine output between each individual motor, it will be well within spec for the rest of the car.