Do it the right way - pull the manifold. It's not difficult at all.
What do think about this?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: clovis ca
What do think about this?
I have the oil pressure sending unit problem. I've read the DIY proceedure. Being that I'm a shadetree style mechanic, I'm a little intimidated by the intake manifold movement. I've heard that there is a proceedure where a hole is drilled through a cowl above the sensor. Are there any pics of that proccedure? Has anybody done this? Thoughts or tips are greatly appreciated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
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Do the intake-it's not a big deal. There is a post on the hole drilling, used the advanced search to find it. If you have a torque wrench and the fuel line seperation tool, do the right thing and pull the intake and do a relocation kit to move it to a more accessable place. You'll be a wiser DYI'er when your done and know how/where to replace the knock sensors when they go.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 721
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From: Fort Worth TX
pulling the intake manifold is really simple, took me less than 10mins. plumbed some new lines and re-routed my OP and now if it goes out all i have to do is pull my frc and bam there she is. Worth the time to do it right and not hack at your lady. -=]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 764
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From: Arden NC
Nope, you can get them any were and there not expensive.. I usually pull the Fuel pump fuse and run the car until it dies then the lines are depressurized.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: clovis ca
Well I just read all 29 pages of the DIY pages. Seeing that the failure rate is pretty high and I'm probably going to have the replace the gizmo more than once, I'm gonna go with the hole in the cowling route. I think I'll order one from Chevy and take advantage of the 1 year warranty. If its really bad I'll go with he relocation kit. I want to say thanks to all for your inputs. Thanks again from a new-be!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 25
Well I just read all 29 pages of the DIY pages. Seeing that the failure rate is pretty high and I'm probably going to have the replace the gizmo more than once, I'm gonna go with the hole in the cowling route. I think I'll order one from Chevy and take advantage of the 1 year warranty. If its really bad I'll go with he relocation kit. I want to say thanks to all for your inputs. Thanks again from a new-be!
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,383
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From: hagerstown md
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
What are you going to do when you have to replace your HVAC vacuum line, drill a hole in the firewall? 
Seriously, go with removing the intake. You really don't need to REMOVE it, just unbolt it so that you can slide it forward. You will be able to move it forward enough to get to the OP unit.
Seriously, go with removing the intake. You really don't need to REMOVE it, just unbolt it so that you can slide it forward. You will be able to move it forward enough to get to the OP unit.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 25
It's actually MORE work to cut the hole, plus you have a hole you have to patch to keep water out of the back of the engine. Many people have a hard time getting the wipers off and the plastic under them can crack especially if the car sits out alot and the plastic has gotten brittle.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,869
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From: Kelso Washington
St. Jude Donor '09, '13, '15
What's the final torque on the intake manifold?
I need to do my pressure unit too......in the meanwhile I don't trust the gauge as it's pegged out :^) I trust that the pressure is actually normal.
Does someone actually sell ..."the Kit"?? A conversion kit.? thanks
I need to do my pressure unit too......in the meanwhile I don't trust the gauge as it's pegged out :^) I trust that the pressure is actually normal.
Does someone actually sell ..."the Kit"?? A conversion kit.? thanks
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Oklahoma city Oklahoma
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 811
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From: greenville north carolina
i paid to have mine done...it was 125 for the install and two weeks later the sensor went bad again...the ASE mechanic did it again and its been a little over a year and not one problem.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Kelso Washington
St. Jude Donor '09, '13, '15
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,891
Likes: 4
From: North Port Fl
Well I just read all 29 pages of the DIY pages. Seeing that the failure rate is pretty high and I'm probably going to have the replace the gizmo more than once, I'm gonna go with the hole in the cowling route. I think I'll order one from Chevy and take advantage of the 1 year warranty. If its really bad I'll go with he relocation kit. I want to say thanks to all for your inputs. Thanks again from a new-be!
I'm another one that believes that if you have to do it. Do it the right way, pull the intake. I have nothing against a shortcut if it works, but not at the expense of chopping up the car and causing possibly even more damage.
Last edited by ljthe2nd; Aug 24, 2009 at 05:09 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,266
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From: Indian Rocks Beach FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
From Summit Racing
Autometer adapter ATM-2268
Earls fitting 982303ERL
Russel line RUS-658080
Russel fitting RUS-660410
From Lowes
Brass fitting 1/4 male to 1/8 female
Brass fitting 1/4 to 1/4 female
From Gene Culley gmpartshouse.com
Buick sensor 12584940
Here's what the finished product looks like:
