The other day when shutting off the car, the power antenna stopped halfway down. I've seen posts on the CF about replacing the whip, and replacements are sold by Mid America. Based on your experiences, which is more likely- did the motor fail, or did the whip coupling break? I hope it was only the whip because it's cheaper and easier to replace!

 

I started having some problems with mine, not going down all the way. I cleaned and WD40'd it. It works so much better now. A few times it has stopped short, but I just keep the rag and WD40 around and clean and oil seem to do the trick. The last 15 times or so everything has worked fine. I have the window valet and use it a lot. I'll sit out at break time and listen to the radio and have a smoke. Now that I've sent this thread, it'll act up again.

 

Yeah, I like my Window Valet too. Problem is that I have an XM receiver in the car and it doesn't come on when the radio does. Guess I need to move the A+ lead to the radio fuse. Doesn't work with the residual accessory power either which is most annoying.

I'll try cleaning the antenna and see if it helps. I hope I don't have to replace the entire unit because it's a pain to access. Fortunately, I have a set of Helms manuals.

 

In my case it was just the mast that wore out. A quick replacement and it was as good as new

Second time around I broke it off on a conifer bush on the driveway.

Heres my How To:

How To Replace a Defective Telescopic Antenna

Now this is a simple mod and the OEM assembly with motor is $130+. You'll know you have the problem because the antenna won't fully retract



Parts:
Adjustable wrench
GM OEM Power Antenna Replacement ($13 E Bay).




Make sure the antenna is fully retracted and that the radio is off

Remove the antenna mounting nut located on the base of the mast on the outside of the car. If the mast is bent it may be necessary to cut off the old mast). If you can't all of the plastic cable out as one piece, (sometimes the plastic gets really hard and breaks into pieces then falls down into the motor), you can just pull the motor after you have pulled the mast out and get all of the pieces out. To do that you'll need to take out the outer right turn signal housing.




Turn on the radio and pull out the old mast and serrated cable completely out of the antenna motor. (Note which way the serrations on the cable are facing)

Feed the serrated cable of the new mast into the antenna hole and stop when resistance is felt. (about 12”). Make sure the cable is fed in with the teeth the same way the old cable came out.



Turn the radio off to lower the antenna until the serrated cable catches.. You may have to cycle the antenna a few times until the cable catches the gear mechanism and retracts into the antenna motor.



Replace and tighten the antenna nut into the mast base.



Turn on and make sure that the mast fully extends without binding. Clean the surface of the antenna to remove any adhesive etc.

10 minute job.



If you encounter a stuck mast here’s advice from the mast vendor:

You see the new "Retaining Sleeve" (silver, 2 inches or so, with slots) on the shaft of the new antenna mast, the original one is most likely a little corroded/frozen into the shaft of your antenna No problem : You are in need of what I refer to as the "snap and tap" technique of mast removal

Turn radio on and let cycle to as much extension as is currently possible

Take hold of the thickest metal mast section (closest to fender) with you thumb and forefinger about 2-3 inches above the top of the antenna shaft hole

Push the thickest mast section into the shaft (as much as it will go within that 2-3 inches)

Hold tightly with thumb and forefinger and Snap your Wrist upward.....you will here the mast bottom "tap" the bottom of the frozen in place retaining sleeve (what this is all about) Repeat this over and over again In-Snap-Tap-Repeat Short Firm Bursts of Energy Focusing the energy blow to the point of the tap This will free the retaining sleeve little by little till it comes out completely