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C5 Reliability with H/C/I ?

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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 07:02 AM
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Default C5 Reliability with H/C/I ?

Hi guys, posted here a few years ago when I had a MY C5, but forgot my username...

I'm looking to get back into the C5 scene, and lately have been looking into a mildly modded C5. I'm really trying to find a C5 with at least a cam and exhaust... trying to be around 400-450 RWHP.

What I don't want to do is spend about 20k on a car with that power, but then be chasing other issues or weak points. So, my questions are:

1) With a 400-450 RWHP motor, will a stock driveline handle that power? (torque tube, trans, diff, axles, etc?) I don't plan on any 5000 rpm launches at the track or anything, just maybe some road racing and light drag racing on street tires.

2) Any issues I should be looking at if trying to find a 400-450 RWHP C5? Things to pay specific attention to, things to avoid?

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 07:36 AM
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I have 431RWHP, no problems yet.
.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:07 AM
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to achieve 450 is much different then 400 rwhp out of an LS6.

to get to 450 rwhp you will need very good heads, well matched cam. FAST 90/90 intake/tb. Great LT Heads, and exhaust and excellent tune. All this will cost quite a bit.

The more HP you want to achieve the costs go up exponentially

Last edited by AU N EGL; Oct 19, 2009 at 08:11 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:35 AM
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Who did the work is as important as the owner properly maintaining the car. When I had H/C package, Doug at ECS told me other than normal maintenance, the springs in the heads should be changed every so many miles. Sorry I don't remember interval, the size of the cam will determine how often the springs should be changed. With my current setup, I was told after 10 trips to the track the springs need to be changed to play it safe. You don't want one of them breaking, it can get very expensive to repair. I got just over 2yrs and 5months on my serpentine belt and let me tell you it was beginning to shred...pushed it too far but did catch it before it broke.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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I am going on 3 years without a problem. The rules are different for a MN6 compared to an A4. I am running the stock trans and an upgrade left ouput shaft, but the output shaft upgrade isn't necessary if you don't race.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 04:48 PM
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I have an 04 , had a cam installed about 2 years ago, 70K miles on the car and I beat it to death, no problems. I am fixing to get a diffrent cam that should put me around 410-420 .... Solid is the C5 ( I had a run up to 160 this weekend, closed coarse of course)

EDIT , I have stock heads

Last edited by mojo1; Oct 19, 2009 at 04:50 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mojo1
I have an 04 , had a cam installed about 2 years ago, 70K miles on the car and I beat it to death, no problems. I am fixing to get a diffrent cam that should put me around 410-420 .... Solid is the C5 ( I had a run up to 160 this weekend, closed coarse of course)

EDIT , I have stock heads
I can atest to the claimed beating that this 04 takes. and it is solid as can be. It still drives like it was brand new, just a lot faster
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BT-01-vette
Who did the work is as important as the owner properly maintaining the car. When I had H/C package, Doug at ECS told me other than normal maintenance, the springs in the heads should be changed every so many miles. Sorry I don't remember interval, the size of the cam will determine how often the springs should be changed. With my current setup, I was told after 10 trips to the track the springs need to be changed to play it safe. You don't want one of them breaking, it can get very expensive to repair. I got just over 2yrs and 5months on my serpentine belt and let me tell you it was beginning to shred...pushed it too far but did catch it before it broke.
this is very false. Unless you are running a .660 lift cam on .650 lift springs.

COMP 918, or patriot make great dual springs and last forever. You buy the spring lift according to the cam lift, because obviously, you want more on the spring. This isnt a Ferrari that revs to 11k.

The reliability is in how aggresive your build is, and how well it was put together. most important is PTV clearance and to make sure the cam is degreed perfect and the valvetrain is properly set up. And as posted above to get a HONEST 450 rwhp, you need TFS 215 heads, GOOD size cam, 92mm intake and all the other crap. I wanted more and didnt want a ragged out 346, so I did a 416 to make more power and more reliability. Its all in how deep the wallet goes
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 07:05 PM
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I guess the 450 rwhp mark for me is a bit optimistic. I think what I will shoot for would be a car with a cam, full exhaust, and maybe an intake. I'd figure 410ish rwhp?? I would also want the MN6, but apparently from the responses thus far they seem to be able to take that power.

My other question is whether it would be better to find a car already modded, or find a stock C5 and throw some parts at it. I am not mechanically inclined, so would likely pay a performance shop for the labor. with the parts cost included, what would be a good estimate for a cam swap, as well as a full exhaust?

Advantages for buying a built car would be I believe it's a bit cheaper; however, anyone who would go to the lengths of adding a cam are mre than likely also going to ride the car hard. a stock car would be a bit cheaper, likely more "babied", but I don't kow how much to budget.

Thanks again guys for your help and advice.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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fill out your profile
your looking at about 5k installed by a top notch shop
headers
cai
cam and all the fix-ins
tune

http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.com/index.html
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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I have a full list of mods done to my car and I make 460 and 400 on motor. I have not had a problem to this date. I also spray a 100 shot and make 632 and 520 and have made several 4000-5000 rpm launches without any failures (knock on wood). My best pass to date is 10.54 @ 134 mph on the stock bottom end, FACTORY CASTED LS6 heads that have been worked over, a small nitrous cam (228/232 582-598 116 LSA), full exhaust, and 4.10 gears.

I have a few other mods but those along with the 100 shot is where I make my power. Dont listen to people when they tell you 450 is hard to make on these motors because my car is definetly tell-tell proof that they are wrong or ignorant to boot.

Forgot to mention that my car is 100% daily driveable! Its not a car thats miserable to drive what so ever.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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This is a great thread. I am planning my H/C package and there is a lot of info on immediate performance gains but not much on long-term reliability. I hope we keep this one going.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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No problems here. Drives like an everyday car with great street manners.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:23 PM
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413RWHP cam only car pretty much a DD, the only thing is my clutch doesnt like it to much at high RPM's. It also has alot to do with how you drive the car.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Smurf91LX
I guess the 450 rwhp mark for me is a bit optimistic. I think what I will shoot for would be a car with a cam, full exhaust, and maybe an intake. I'd figure 410ish rwhp?? I would also want the MN6, but apparently from the responses thus far they seem to be able to take that power.

My other question is whether it would be better to find a car already modded, or find a stock C5 and throw some parts at it. I am not mechanically inclined, so would likely pay a performance shop for the labor. with the parts cost included, what would be a good estimate for a cam swap, as well as a full exhaust?

Advantages for buying a built car would be I believe it's a bit cheaper; however, anyone who would go to the lengths of adding a cam are mre than likely also going to ride the car hard. a stock car would be a bit cheaper, likely more "babied", but I don't kow how much to budget.

Thanks again guys for your help and advice.
its not about how hard its been driven, its the shape its in and the quality of the work done. hard to tell on a modded car. where do you live?
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 11:21 PM
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I at 430rwhp with H/C ls6 intake and longtube headers. Installed it myself in my driveway. total cost was around 2800.00. I've put about 25,000 miles on it and haven't had an issue but i don't race on the track and i would like to upgrade the clutch soon.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by VGLNTE1
where do you live?
I'm in Warner Robins, GA.... about 100 miles south of Atlanta.
Sorry, haven't yet filled out the profile. Will do that soon.

My latest idea is to buy the best, stock C5 that I can... drive it around while saving enough funds for the cam, exhaust, intake, etc .. and then getting it installed. It may cost be more compared to a previously modded car, but at least I will know the history.

Unless, of course,I find a really good deal on something else.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 07:15 AM
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
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I had 423 RWHP and 400 RWTQ and I had no issues ever and I ran this through a stock A4 as well when I went to 701 RWHP!

Just get a good tuner for the set-up and all will be good!

Thanks,Matt
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Smurf91LX
I'm in Warner Robins, GA.... about 100 miles south of Atlanta.
Sorry, haven't yet filled out the profile. Will do that soon.

My latest idea is to buy the best, stock C5 that I can... drive it around while saving enough funds for the cam, exhaust, intake, etc .. and then getting it installed. It may cost be more compared to a previously modded car, but at least I will know the history.

Unless, of course,I find a really good deal on something else.
hum....I may be moving to the Griffin area for work soon. I could help ya install the stuff.......pretty easy
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