I just got a c5 corvette this week, my sister took it for a spin and left the lights on, the battery died. I jumped the car and everything worked fine, i drove it down the road to add air to the tires, after i shut off the car and turned it back on the car would shut off everytime i put it on drive. I noticed the fan wasn't turning on, so i figured i blew a fuse or a relay, i replaced all the fuses and relays for the fan. The fan kicked in nicely after that, but the car still shut off everytime i put it in drive. I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes and connected it back, still no solution. What do i do now.??

 

First off you need to put the battery on a slow charger, A short drive isn't going to do it, The C5 is a battery hog. Try the 2 amp charge over night and see if that does the trick.

 

How would i do that? where can i get a slow charger from?

 

See what codes are present and clear them. Might be time for a new battery electronic cars do not do well on low voltage. It is possible you have a ECL service issue which kicked in a program to shut down the vehicle.

Clear codes, ignition to ON hold OPTIONS button and press FUEL four times. The DIC goes into diagnostics mode and as it cycles be prepared with paper and pencil and write down the codes, just the core number as they come quickly. Then when it finishes and goes into manual diagnostics press OPTIONS button to move forward if it says no codes press again to next module. When you have a code present press Reset, if no more for that model then press OPTIONS again and go through each module until all are cleared. To go backwards press TRIP and OPTIONS forward. Once inside a module GAGES goes forward to the next code in that module while FUEL goes backwards. To exit diagnostics at any time press E/M button.

There are essentially eight modules: PCM - TCS - TRD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. Don't be surprised if you have a few (H) history codes for battery issues and communications issues. (C) is a current code. (No alarm for things like 1064, 1096, 2284, 2282, 2283, 2287, 2285 as these probably came from the low voltage condition.)

Turn off pull key wait a few seconds and try a restart and see what happens.

 

I'd be happy if its just the battery. I called my friend (hes a mechanic) and he said it could also be a vacuum leak, does that make sense? or something bad with the fuel pump.

 

Stop guessing, run diagnostics and let us know what are the codes.

No I doubt it is a vacuum leak.

 

I will, I'll return later on with the codes

 

Never charge a dead battery with the car running. You can damage the alternator which is not designed to charge a dead battery.

 

Charge the battery. BTW, Google is your friend.

 

The car should turn OFF the lights after 10-15 minutes or so anyway. If the battery died, it was on it's last legs anyway. What does the voltage say on the guage?

 

I had no idea the lights turn off by themselves.. even interior lights? The voltage was normal, i can't get any codes or anything now since my dad just had it towed...

P.S- Black04Z06- thanks for pointing out the world's most popular search engine, is there anything else you want to enlighten me with?

 

Yep, that makes sense, bounce the guy that tries to help you.

 

If you are going to post here, you must use proper grammar. Instead of saying "....anything else you want to enlighten me with?"

You should say "is there anything with which you want to enlighten me?"


Relax! I'm kidding! Black04Z06 was just busting your balz a little and I thought I would too!

Good luck with your trouble shooting, it seems like you're now on the right track!

 

TRY HERE http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...battery+tender
I think that's what he was trying to tell you. To Google "Slow charge" or something to get more about it and where.

 

thank you Mr. Jean and others who have posted to help out
and lol blacksedan i wouldn't get far if i had to rely on my grammar :P

 

I have a friend who also is a GM master mechanic/technician, and he told me at least ten years ago that the era of 'Electronic Cars' had come and that if I ever come out one day and find my battery stone dead, DO NOT jump it and run it around to charge the battery. He said that the load you put on the alternator and regulator and it can lead to the failure of a $150.00 alternator. Much better to have the battery charged up by a commercial of any decent 1.5 or 3.5 amp automotive battery charger. Just my $0.02 hope everything works out OK !

 

Wal-mart has everything... or try an autoparts store.

 

No Problem! I'm glad you know of it and congratulation on that, now go use it!


Help me help you..... Use google, it really works....

 

Good luck with a fix

 

Quite frankly, a new GM Professional 75 Series battery will run you about $80. It comes with a 50 month free replacement warranty (if I remember the number right).

Where was the vehicle towed to? You could have cleared the codes and got it back running again. Where ever the vehicle is with just minor tools you can swap out the battery wrench for posts and socket plus extensions for the hold down. Do not over tighten the hold down. The batter slips into a lip in the tray and then is held down.

I believe once you have a new battery and clear the codes it should be back operational.

Then you can go from there is there are any persistent codes.