[Z06] clutch fluid change
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
From: CT
clutch fluid change
Im going to check and most likely clean my clutch fluid tomorrow as i felt my pedal tonight being slow to return. Ive read a few of the posts on how to do it etc and i know how to perform it and i already have everything i need. My question is, when i suck out the dirty clutch fluid and put in newer clean fluid can i leave the rubber fitting out and cap off while i pump the pedal? or will this suck air and cause an airlock in the system?
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 585
Likes: 2
Im going to check and most likely clean my clutch fluid tomorrow as i felt my pedal tonight being slow to return. Ive read a few of the posts on how to do it etc and i know how to perform it and i already have everything i need. My question is, when i suck out the dirty clutch fluid and put in newer clean fluid can i leave the rubber fitting out and cap off while i pump the pedal? or will this suck air and cause an airlock in the system?
Hope this helps,
LO PHAT
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
Why would you want to leave out the rubber bladder?
It also servers to seal the cap. If you pump the fluid without the gasket, most likely you will get fluid leaks down the side of the reservoir.
I am not sure what you think you are saving by trying to leave it out?
If you ever watched the fluid in the reservoir when the pedal is being pumped, you will also notice that the fluid can spray up in the reservoir on the return stroke.
Leaving the bladder out and/or the cap off.....not a good idea.
It also servers to seal the cap. If you pump the fluid without the gasket, most likely you will get fluid leaks down the side of the reservoir.
I am not sure what you think you are saving by trying to leave it out?
If you ever watched the fluid in the reservoir when the pedal is being pumped, you will also notice that the fluid can spray up in the reservoir on the return stroke.
Leaving the bladder out and/or the cap off.....not a good idea.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 8, 2009 at 10:54 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
From: CT
Why would you want to leave out the rubber bladder?
It also servers to seal the cap. If you pump the fluid without the gasket, most likely you will get fluid leaks down the side of the reservoir.
I am not sure what you think you are saving by trying to leave it out?
If you ever watched the fluid in the reservoir when the pedal is being pumped, you will also notice that the fluid can spray up in the reservoir on the return stroke.
Leaving the bladder out and/or the cap off.....not a good idea.
It also servers to seal the cap. If you pump the fluid without the gasket, most likely you will get fluid leaks down the side of the reservoir.
I am not sure what you think you are saving by trying to leave it out?
If you ever watched the fluid in the reservoir when the pedal is being pumped, you will also notice that the fluid can spray up in the reservoir on the return stroke.
Leaving the bladder out and/or the cap off.....not a good idea.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 231
From: Queen Creek AZ
not trying to save anything really, i just feel its easier to do the swap if you dont have to keep taking the cap and rubber piece out. and that is what i was looking for, if its going to spray and what not then i will def leave it in as it is before i pump the clutch. Just wanted this piece of info. thanks though
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
I was under the impression that you just pump the clutch about 30 times to circulate the fluid. If the fluid is still dark, extract, refill and then repeat the clutch pumping process until the fluid is clear.
I saw Ranger's video and that's how I did it.
I saw Ranger's video and that's how I did it.
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Springdale AR
Also, doing a full bleed from the slave works even better! It always feels like I have a new clutch after I do the bleed (twice a year usually). Even after swapping the fluid from the reservoir multiple times, it's amazing how dark and dirty the fluid is that comes out of the slave during a full bleed.Definitely try the Ranger fluid swap method first, but if you're still not happy with the way the clutch pedal feels, try doing a full bleed at the slave.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 231
From: Queen Creek AZ
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: NC
Youre not doin it right or wrong cap on or cap off with the fluid swap method...the guys telling you its wrong to do it cap off was what i was killing
When i was stock clutch...I removed the h pipe and tunnel plate and reached the slave bleeder and bled from there...now i have a remote bleeder and do it that way...but you dont have to swap often if the reservoir remains clean...assuming your system is circulating
When i was stock clutch...I removed the h pipe and tunnel plate and reached the slave bleeder and bled from there...now i have a remote bleeder and do it that way...but you dont have to swap often if the reservoir remains clean...assuming your system is circulating
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
I just did a couple of friend's cars this weekend, and as soon as they started to pump the clutch, the reservoir turned dark, so you should not have to actually drive the car to circulate the fluid.
Mine was not too dirty, so I just change mine, drive it a week or so, and change it again if it is dark. Mine stays fairly clean now, so I don't have to replace the fluid but every 5 or 6 months.
I usually notice that my brake fluid is also starting to get dark, so I just change them both.
Mine was not too dirty, so I just change mine, drive it a week or so, and change it again if it is dark. Mine stays fairly clean now, so I don't have to replace the fluid but every 5 or 6 months.
I usually notice that my brake fluid is also starting to get dark, so I just change them both.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 5
From: Jupiter FL
Also, doing a full bleed from the slave works even better! It always feels like I have a new clutch after I do the bleed (twice a year usually). Even after swapping the fluid from the reservoir multiple times, it's amazing how dark and dirty the fluid is that comes out of the slave during a full bleed.Definitely try the Ranger fluid swap method first, but if you're still not happy with the way the clutch pedal feels, try doing a full bleed at the slave.
Any tips on how to get to the slave to bleed it would be greatly appreciated.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Guys,I'm sorry for the silly question..Its just that am wondering,According to Ranger the Dark fluid in the reservoir is caused by the Clutch dust getting in the system..
But how does this happen ?? how does the Clutch dust get into the Hydraulic system..
But how does this happen ?? how does the Clutch dust get into the Hydraulic system..
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
I suck mine 15th of each month (date I got the car). Cap off pump, no issues. I can't tell any difference in my clutch but it had been changed and I'm keeping after it. Each change, the fluid is somewhat darker, so good move.
I too wonder how the dust gets into the fluid. I saw a demo tape and it seemed to indicate the dust enters slave where the shaft operating the clutch at the slave exits the slave; must be ultra-fine stuff. Quite the phenom but swapping out via Ranger can only help, no cost and time involved when you think about it.
I too wonder how the dust gets into the fluid. I saw a demo tape and it seemed to indicate the dust enters slave where the shaft operating the clutch at the slave exits the slave; must be ultra-fine stuff. Quite the phenom but swapping out via Ranger can only help, no cost and time involved when you think about it.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Portage Indiana
Im going to check and most likely clean my clutch fluid tomorrow as i felt my pedal tonight being slow to return. Ive read a few of the posts on how to do it etc and i know how to perform it and i already have everything i need. My question is, when i suck out the dirty clutch fluid and put in newer clean fluid can i leave the rubber fitting out and cap off while i pump the pedal? or will this suck air and cause an airlock in the system?
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Springdale AR
It's brake fluid or a close variation of brake fluid, so yes it absorbs moisture. Keep the cap on if you're concerned about the fluid absorbing any moisture. The same goes for the new brake fluid as well. I'm not sure about the actual "shelf life" is after the seal on a new bottle of fluid, but it'll collect moisture too over time even with the cap on tight.It's not that big of a deal to bleed it from the slave. You do have to take off the exhaust midsection and the tunnel plate, but that's it. I've gotten to where I can do it myself by using a small pole to hold the pedal down all the way. I push the pedal down, put the stick in, then use the electric seat to push it all the way down and hold it. Then I can get underneath and bleed, then tighten and repeat that process. About 6-10 bleed cycles gets nice clean fluid to come out of the slave. The pedal feels amazing and brand new after it's all done.
Ranger's method is great for those that don't want to go through that much work (and it's necessary for basic fluid maintenance). But if you're pedal still feels squishy and the fluid stays dirty, try flushing from the slave.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: miami FL.
bleeding and swapping
Ive been reading this post and im trying to figure out how to bleed from the clutch slave cylinder.Is there some type of device i can buy from the auto part store and how is it done.I have 80,000 miles and i really never paid attention to the fluid until i realized it was dark black and almost empty.I know its part of routine maintenance but im not to familar with it.Also the synchros in my tranny have all been replaced but ive been told my pilot bearing is gone but i dont believe the dealer as i think they were trying to rob me.I believe some how there is a leak and my system needs new fluid because i get a grinding noise when shifting at times and i believe my slave must have air because if i pump it a few times it shifts smooth which leads me to believe i just need to bleed it and replace the fluid.Any help would be appreciated!
