Right after I failed my Illinois EPA test,,,I found a thread on the topic,,and learned the problem was I had recently cleared some codes,,thus several readings were "Not Ready". I am for the time being running with a futzed up EBCM that is always throwing ABS,TC,AH warnings/codes. Now I know if I clear the CODES that screws up the readings for the plug in test,,WHAT I want toe confirm is "RESETTING" JUST the DIC readings/warning will have no effect on the code storage. It is a bit annoying that these warnings block odometer/trip readouts etc. till you reset them. I'm an old shade tree that can do most any mechanical work,,,but this electronic/computer stuff has me scratching my head learning what it will and won't do,,and what does what TO what!! Thanks!!

 

Resetting the DIC codes IS resetting all the computer codes. You can get the I/M monitors (the things that your FAILING after a reset) from those cheapy OBD readers you can get at Sears or Autozone. I don't believe the DIC shows I/M monitor status.

 

Just to be clear,,I am not talking about pulling up the codes and clearing them(That is what screwed up the test),,I'm talking about resetting the warnings that keep flashing/dinging on the read out,,leaving the codes alone.

 

 

I believe once you CLEAR the ABS/TC codes (which sounds like what you want to do), you will ALSO reset the I/M monitors which is what your probably failing. Not sure but they may pass it w/ the ABS/TC warning as long as the I/M's go READY. The drive cycle to have them go ready is complicated (you can search for it with the search above) but generally 50-100 miles of normal driving sets them all.

 

 

General Motors' OBD-II driving cycle

• Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start, the engine coolant temperature must be
below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at start-up. Do not
leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

• Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear
defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater,
Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

• Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until
88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics
will be performed.

• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time
the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

• Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift or touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

• Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same
diagnostics as in step 3.

• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be
performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5
complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

• Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or
brakes or shift gears.

 

I understand what you are saying, I believe if you just hit reset to just clear the display while driving it shouldn't make you fail the test.

 

I think we are on the same page,,,I just want to stop the warnings so I can read the odometer,MPG oil/water temps. I am not talking about holding the options button and hitting the top button 4 times to actually get the codes and clear them. The codes pop after I reach about 25 mph,,and the warnings keep cycling and all I am talking about is hitting the reset (while driving) and it stops the messages and allows the regular DIC functions.I am not going into the memory and clearing the codes. I have to drive X number of miles and retest without clearing codes so they can do the test.

 

Does the message stop after you shut the car off and restart? If it does, while your in line at the testing station-shut the car off and restart-doubt you'll get above 25mph after that.

 

Yep ,,some of them pop up on restart,,and the rest come in at 25. They are not really a concern for the test,,they just plug in to see that all the engine management/pollution systems are reading within limits. I just want to be able to check my usual functions on everyday driving,,not to mention seeing these other warnings CONSTANTLY flipping through is HIGHLY annoying. I think Mr. Bill answered my basic question,,and confirmed what I suspected,,doing a "superficial" display only reset should not affect the storage of the computer "memory"!! When I got the "NOT READY" readings they asked If I had any work done OR if the battery had been disconnected I said yes. It had been through an extensive diagnostic to track down the EBCM problem recently. I then read clearing codes would also wipe out the stored readings as well. I had cleared some of the EBCM codes as well,,now I know NOT to do that as it takes time to reestablish the ECM function memory!! Thanks all for the replies!

 

Why not just fix the EBCM issue?

 

Cause that would be the correct thing to do.

 

 

It is in the works,,but being retired and working on a project house,,funds are a bit tight and other things are taking priority at the moment. Gotta save my nickles and dimes for now. The EBCM is not a MUST HAVE,,drives fine without it. I DO want to fix it ASAP. Want to donate to the cause dougbfresh!!

 

Had mine fixed for less than $200, if you can't afford that, maybe it's time to sell the Vette

 

Se my post here...."ever hear of this"

 

Thats really not a very nice thing to say, There are a lot of people that have wanted there dream car most of there life and don't have a lot of extra cash to spend, I myself am doing ok in that department, But I know a lot are not and I understand...
Some times it just takes a bit longer to do things and that is ok.

 

Or like me that have bought and paid for my vette but now am unemployed and not wanting to spend $ if not really needed but hey.....Happy Thanksgiving !

 

Well,,spent almost $200 getting the problem tracked down,,a New module cost $645 and $250 labor. Don't have that kind of petty cash laying around right now as money is being tied up in a house I'm rehabbing right now,,not to mention had to pay about a grand to get a huge tree taken down since it was between a building and a power line. Sometimes expenses hit all at once. Just the way it goes sometimes. ALL forum members aren't high rollers with lots of money laying around.