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I think they are around $1200-$1400. The cool thing is that if you ever need it to be rebuilt, they charge $300 for a complete rebuild and $125 for balancing with the flywheel.
I'm using a RAM Twin Disc with 700/700. feels stock and is rated for a lot more. There are a lot of good choices and people always recommend what they use unless there is a catastrophic event.
I have 5K very hard driven street miles on my Monster 3.5 and it makes no weird noises, doesnt chatter (never did), and grabs hard like there aint no tomorrow at full boost shifting into 5th. I have no complaints at all and would use it again on a different car. I can also baby it out low rpm around city traffic and its smooth as can be as well.
[QUOTE=Higgs Boson people always recommend what they use unless there is a catastrophic event.[/QUOTE]
not always...see post #4 I wouldnt recommend the Monster Level 3 to anyone who doesnt strictly drag race. Its a poor choice for the street. Maybe the 3.5 is different....dont know & aint willing to find out. Waaaay to much work to swap a clutch then have to do it again before it wears out.
I think they are around $1200-$1400. The cool thing is that if you ever need it to be rebuilt, they charge $300 for a complete rebuild and $125 for balancing with the flywheel.
not always...see post #4 I wouldnt recommend the Monster Level 3 to anyone who doesnt strictly drag race. Its a poor choice for the street. Maybe the 3.5 is different....dont know & aint willing to find out. Waaaay to much work to swap a clutch then have to do it again before it wears out.
The level 3 clutch is a puck style (well it was last year but now they dont make the .5 series anymore so not sure if the 3 is still a puck style or a full face style disc.
I originally ordered a 3 series and before I installed it they came out with the 3.5 which was a full face disc. I sent my puck style disc back for the new 3.5 series full face. I dont think I would have liked the puck style.
Big difference in what it does, characteristics and such and noises it makes makes a puck style not liked on the street usually..
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Dec 1, 2009 at 04:42 PM.
right. a puck disc is NOT something I would consider for the street. to me, that shouldn't even be an option in a thread like this. if the description has puck in it, look for something else. besides, a multi-disc clutch is the way to go with a higher hp street car. soft and easy engagement and big power hold.
what i should have said is that as long as a person makes an educated decision about their clutch when they buy it, they will recommend it unless there is a catatrophic event (worn out after 2K miles, breaking, etc) and that does not include not knowing how to actually use a clutch, lol.
Last edited by Higgs Boson; Dec 1, 2009 at 03:06 PM.
right. a puck disc is NOT something I would consider for the street. to me, that shouldn't even be an option in a thread like this. if the description has puck in it, look for something else. besides, a multi-disc clutch is the way to go with a higher hp street car. soft and easy engagement and big power hold.
what i should have said is that as long as a person makes an educated decision about their clutch when they buy it, they will recommend it unless there is a catatrophic event (worn out after 2K miles, breaking, etc) and that does not include not knowing how to actually use a clutch, lol.
I agree with you...the problem is, and is the reason I'm a little sour on the whole Monster "thing", is because I was told straight up by one of their reps, this clutch is perfect for the street, and its just about identical to stock. I was even talked out of buying the level 2 with a full face disc. I am fully aware on how to operate a clutch and sought the advice of what was supposed to be someone I could trust in order to help me make an educated decision.
Yes one must always do their own research and not always take what a rep/salesperson is pushing and sometimes even what they recommend. I did my research after I bought it and then realized I did not want a puck design and sent it back.
Mine is a puck design and I don't see how it could be any better. I sometimes wonder if every clutch (even the same make/model) is different.
Again, if you are going to take it to the track, I would ask people that have had success in that venture. If you are going to autocross, ask the guys that are the top 6 speed autocross drivers. If you are going to drag race, ask the fastest 6 speed drag guys. If you are only going to keep it on the street, ask those guys.
Once you install a spec super twin, you will not beleive the feel of the clutch peddle. It feels just as light as the stock clutch, no chatter, and holds my new setup just fine!!!
Once you install a spec super twin, you will not believe the feel of the clutch peddle. It feels just as light as the stock clutch, no chatter, and holds my new setup just fine!!!
I will be between 850-900 at the wheels...
So true. Very street-able... drives like stock, except the engagement takes a bit of getting used to
Spec twin here... there are pros and cons... what do you plan on doing with the car? If it is a strictly street car/no dead stop races I would do the spec twin.
Pros of spec twin: still havent heard of a single person destroying one, very light pedal(why I got it), minimal chatter, takes an *** whoopin.
Cons: destroys rear ends(guaranteed to happen sooner or later, even if built), very tough to "slip"
Spec twin here... there are pros and cons... what do you plan on doing with the car? If it is a strictly street car/no dead stop races I would do the spec twin.
Pros of spec twin: still havent heard of a single person destroying one, very light pedal(why I got it), minimal chatter, takes an *** whoopin.
Cons: destroys rear ends(guaranteed to happen sooner or later, even if built), very tough to "slip"
my spec twin feels nothing like stock...engagement is very short...pedal is heavy as hell...grabby as hell have no room to slip it on the street (you learn to drive it and its not bad but I'd still call streetability POOR)...even when i ran the stock master my pedal felt nothing like stock...added the tick master due to some getting in gear issues (which didnt go away) its definitely disengagement issues(spec, tick, and RPM all said it was master...that didnt fix it...all it did was make my pedal way harder I like pedal feel before the tick much better)...maybe i need to remove check the slave again, send the clutch to spec to get inspected, and remeasure for the shim...currently no shim (yes i measured)
I would look into the Mcleod clutches if i was the OP