Replacing warped rotors before selling...:(
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 60
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Replacing warped rotors before selling...:(
Well I got married and put in a bid for a house, so its time to move onto a more "family" type car
Before I put my baby up for sale, I have to change the front rotors as they've become warped. Can anyone recommend brands? I have some experience working on my car, but haven't done much brake wise. I've looked over some step-by-step removal and installation procedures and they seem simple enough. Basically, I'm asking is this a procedure that would be more difficult to screw up than not?
Also, as long as I'm thinking about it, what would you guys think of selling an '02 Z06 with 81K daily driver miles on it?
Lots of questions, I know, but any replies would be appreciated!
-Chad
Before I put my baby up for sale, I have to change the front rotors as they've become warped. Can anyone recommend brands? I have some experience working on my car, but haven't done much brake wise. I've looked over some step-by-step removal and installation procedures and they seem simple enough. Basically, I'm asking is this a procedure that would be more difficult to screw up than not?Also, as long as I'm thinking about it, what would you guys think of selling an '02 Z06 with 81K daily driver miles on it?
Lots of questions, I know, but any replies would be appreciated!
-Chad
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
PowerSlot rotors
Your rotors may not have warped. It is common problem with C5s that involves uneven brake pad (OEM) deposits on OEM-style blank rotors. The uneven deposits will cause brake pedal pulsations. I experienced this after only 5000-6000 miles.
My solution? PowerSlot rotors: They have completely eliminated pedal pulsations by keeping the pads fresh at all times. Braking effectiveness is always fantastic and I can run OEM pads without any worry, whatsoever.
I would advise you to stay away from blank rotors unless you use pads that are of different composition from the OEMs. Even then, a faulty bed-in process may bring back the pulsations, anyway, so why save a few bucks when slotted will solve the issue, forever? The other nice thing about slotted is that no bed-in is required.
My solution? PowerSlot rotors: They have completely eliminated pedal pulsations by keeping the pads fresh at all times. Braking effectiveness is always fantastic and I can run OEM pads without any worry, whatsoever.
I would advise you to stay away from blank rotors unless you use pads that are of different composition from the OEMs. Even then, a faulty bed-in process may bring back the pulsations, anyway, so why save a few bucks when slotted will solve the issue, forever? The other nice thing about slotted is that no bed-in is required.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-corvette.html
Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,731
Likes: 82
From: New Market AL
I have a complete set of 03 Z06 rotors and pads that came off the car @ 10k miles. They could be yours for $50 plus shipping. These came off my co-workers Z06 when he upgraded to slotted rotors.
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
with Dave68 - could very well be uneven deposits. The best way to tell, of course, is to measure the rotor runout. A nice explanation from another automotive site (www.vcoa.org):
"Brake rotor thickness variation causes brake vibration due to changes in the braking force as thick and thin portions of the rotor pass between the pads. Eric Smith, Senior Instructor for Wagner Brake at the Moog World Training Center in St. Louis, says technicians sometimes pin the blame on a defective rotor, but often it's due to excessive system run-out, which has not been checked by the technician.
Smith says the run-out will cause the rotor to wear itself out of parallel, and is why turning or replacing the rotor won't solve the problem. System run-out can be caused by poor mating of flanges between the hub and rotor when assembled as a unit ( by excessive rust, preventing a clean fit of the rotor on the flange), excessive run-out and even improper torqueing of the wheel bolts. Once the rotor heats up during operation, if one lug is a little less tight that the others, the rotor will expand at that point and cause run-out, says Smith. Compounding this is the fact that the brake might only have run-out when the rotor is hot. When the customer takes the car back to the shop, it's cooled when checked by the technician and by that time the run-out disappears. If not corrected, though, it will eventually have a permanent run-out, and be worn out of parallel.
Make sure rotor run-out is below specifications before reinstallation; also make sure the hub is clean and rust free before installing the rotor. System run-out should be checked after installing the rotor (new or turned). If run-out is above spec, the solution may be as easy as re-indexing the rotor one stud at a time, until run-out is within spec. It may also be necessary to replace the hub assembly. And see below for tips on front end shimmy and vibration, which can feel similar to brake problems."
If it measures good, though, it could be deposits. This usually happens to cars that are driven at low to moderate speeds with significant stop-and-go traffic - daily drivers, typically. I learned a trick to eliminate these deposits - and what felt like warped rotors - on several different cars I've daily-driven over the years with good results.
I find a long stretch of deserted road with no cars going either direction. I do several high-speed near-stops from 75 mph by pressing the brake pedal hard, very quickly, almost to the point of activationg the ABS. It must be done quick and hard and repeated 5 or 6 times until the pedal pulse smooths out. You should drive the car for at least another 15 minutes at moderate speed and let the brakes cool down before parking the car.
This technique is similar to the rotor seasoning/pad bedding procedure you do on new brakes. It has cured my pedal-pulse several times with the benefit of not having to replace the rotors. Mind you - this is when the issue was indeed uneven deposits. True warped, uneven or variable-thickness rotors will not respond to this at all.
Best of luck.