[Z06] OK to Spray??
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
You'll get mixed opinions on this question. You might find some of the past threads/replies with search or search this forum (in the red banner) in C5 Tech. Try keywords "power wash engine compartment" or similar.
I've never done it to any of my cars, just not willing to damage any electronic components. Others say they do it all the time. It's your choice.
I'm in dusty AZ, but I just wipe everything done with each hand wash. If there's a hint of oil/grease, I use (carefully) aerosol brake cleaner in tight spots or diluted WINDEX and wipe with a rag. Once it's clean, just a detail with 303 PROTECTANT works for me.
I've never done it to any of my cars, just not willing to damage any electronic components. Others say they do it all the time. It's your choice.
I'm in dusty AZ, but I just wipe everything done with each hand wash. If there's a hint of oil/grease, I use (carefully) aerosol brake cleaner in tight spots or diluted WINDEX and wipe with a rag. Once it's clean, just a detail with 303 PROTECTANT works for me.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
On a Corvette engine you also have to be concerned about things like getting water under the intake plenum and causing problems with the knock sensors. I would just wipe everything off without putting a direct water spray on the engine.
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 166
From: 19804
I would not pressure wash an engine bay. Way to many parts that don't like to be wet under the hood. Just wipe everything down with some cleaner. Sometimes blowing everything off with compressed air helps get in the tighter spots.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
From: Lorton VA
I've used houshold degreaser (409 or simple green works fine) and washed the engine bay on several vehicles with no issues (the commercial brand car degreasers are too strong and can strip away chrome if you have any). Never tried it on the Vette since I keep the engine bay clean to begin with. If you decide to go ahead and clean the engine bay, use very low pressure - i.e. just remove the nozzle from the hose. Most professional detailer do it this way also (they don't steam clean engines anymore as this causes the hoses to crack).
If you want to play it safe and the engine isn't too dirty, wipe it off with some cleaner and towels.
If you want to play it safe and the engine isn't too dirty, wipe it off with some cleaner and towels.
Last edited by taegee2; Dec 20, 2009 at 05:52 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,328
Likes: 40
From: Orangevale California
St. Jude Donor '10
I always try to avoid getting too much water in the engine compartment. I understand Chevy made the car so it can be driven in the rain, but I just don't.
When I'm finished washing my car, I open the hood and wipe down everything visible under the hood with a damp towel. That's kept it looking very clean so far.
When I'm finished washing my car, I open the hood and wipe down everything visible under the hood with a damp towel. That's kept it looking very clean so far.
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: New York
I've washed the engine compartment several times on my Corvette without any ill effects. Of course, I've never concentrated high amounts of water on any electrical components however everything else, no issues. I have a Head and Cam Z06 with many other modifications and there isn't anyone that I would not recommend this too. I've had a Turbo BMW M3, Subaru STi, and Honda S2000 that I also washed with no effects.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
Also works to help free up debris that has collected along the top part of the radiator opening. Then blow out with air nozzle.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: South Bend Indiana
I just use a mild detergent solution, spray with a degreaser on a warm, not hot engine, using a soft longer bristled brush, softly scrub the engine using just enough soapy water to wet the parts, then light spray with the hose, quickly, using only a gallon or two of water.
I use my leaf blower to get the free water off the engine parts, detailing with a dry soft cotton rag.
I then let the open engine compartment in the sun for several hours.
The trick is, don't use too much water or force it into connectors, etc. Stay away from battery and fuse box with free water, just use a damp rag on those parts.
They call me the BreeZe
I use my leaf blower to get the free water off the engine parts, detailing with a dry soft cotton rag.
I then let the open engine compartment in the sun for several hours.
The trick is, don't use too much water or force it into connectors, etc. Stay away from battery and fuse box with free water, just use a damp rag on those parts.
They call me the BreeZe
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: 300 ft AGL Wilmington NC
I just use a mild detergent solution, spray with a degreaser on a warm, not hot engine, using a soft longer bristled brush, softly scrub the engine using just enough soapy water to wet the parts, then light spray with the hose, quickly, using only a gallon or two of water.
I use my leaf blower to get the free water off the engine parts, detailing with a dry soft cotton rag.
I then let the open engine compartment in the sun for several hours.
The trick is, don't use too much water or force it into connectors, etc. Stay away from battery and fuse box with free water, just use a damp rag on those parts.
They call me the BreeZe
I use my leaf blower to get the free water off the engine parts, detailing with a dry soft cotton rag.
I then let the open engine compartment in the sun for several hours.
The trick is, don't use too much water or force it into connectors, etc. Stay away from battery and fuse box with free water, just use a damp rag on those parts.
They call me the BreeZe
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,685
Likes: 1,330
From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Yes.
Try to put a rag just where the intake and valley cover meet. You are trying to keep water out of the two knock sensor holes that are about 3 inches deep. If water stays there long it will corrode the sensors themselves, they are resistant to rust. You can run the engine if a little bit gets there and in due time the water will burn off from the engine heat.
Other than that, I know a car dealer that steam pressure washes each one that rolls through. They have all been fine. Remove the FRCs and blast off the crud after taking the precation for the k sensors.
*EDIT* Here's a pic of the (2) knock sensor cavities you are trying to avoid filling with water.
Try to put a rag just where the intake and valley cover meet. You are trying to keep water out of the two knock sensor holes that are about 3 inches deep. If water stays there long it will corrode the sensors themselves, they are resistant to rust. You can run the engine if a little bit gets there and in due time the water will burn off from the engine heat.
Other than that, I know a car dealer that steam pressure washes each one that rolls through. They have all been fine. Remove the FRCs and blast off the crud after taking the precation for the k sensors.
*EDIT* Here's a pic of the (2) knock sensor cavities you are trying to avoid filling with water.
Last edited by ~Josh; Dec 29, 2009 at 10:18 AM. Reason: added
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Just a note - Simple Green has known issues with aluminum. Their aircraft product, available from companies like Aircraft Spruce, is a far better choice.
I don't "power wash", but I do wash it with a hose. I find a good run at <totally legal speeds> directly after helps to dry the engine.
Then again, I drive my 'Vette in the rain...so...
I don't "power wash", but I do wash it with a hose. I find a good run at <totally legal speeds> directly after helps to dry the engine.
Then again, I drive my 'Vette in the rain...so...
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 585
Likes: 2
Just a note - Simple Green has known issues with aluminum. Their aircraft product, available from companies like Aircraft Spruce, is a far better choice.
I have been washing the engines on all of my vehicles for many years now with no ill effects. Only once did I manage to get some water under the distributor cap on a Ford truck. The trick is to have the engine cold (or barely warm) as you wash it so that there are no sudden temperature changes when the water hits various metals. I like Simple Green or similar products that help to cut grease and oil. After everything is clean and well rinsed off, I run the engine with the A/C on for about five to ten minutes. The running engine will throw water out of parts like the A/C compressor and alternator, and the heat generated will dry out areas like the intake where water pools.
LO PHAT
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
If you're rinsing very thouroughly then you're reducing the risk, but it's easy enough to get the aluminum-friendly product...so why not be better safe than sorry.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 585
Likes: 2
Simple Green themselves noted that their standard product had an etching effect on unprotected aluminum. This was first noticed in the general aviation aircraft industry, so they came out with a formulation specifically for aircraft. I found this myself.
If you're rinsing very thouroughly then you're reducing the risk, but it's easy enough to get the aluminum-friendly product...so why not be better safe than sorry.
If you're rinsing very thouroughly then you're reducing the risk, but it's easy enough to get the aluminum-friendly product...so why not be better safe than sorry.
LO PHAT
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
i usually get the engine hot, spray it with casite foaming cleaner and get a garden hose, on super low flow and get a small mist coming out of it by blocking the hose with my thumb. Of course i cover the electronics before i "hose" it down. it usually tkaes care of all the grease around and on the motor.