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You don't have to remove anything to get to the bolt.
Correct, However when I jack the front leaf spring to remove pressure on the bolt, the entire car raises. I am trying to figure out a solution, and if lowering the control arm is the best bet....
As stated before. The lowering bolt CAN NOT be frozen to the spring.
Make sure when you jack the spring that it it not hanging on anything and the jack is only on the spring.
If the a-arm goes up with the spring push down on the spindle to break it loose.
Removing the arm requires unbolting the shock from the lower a-arm and taking the ball joint loose.
This can create a lot of issues if you get into it without the proper tools.
Thanks.
I am at my wits end. The Jack is 100% on the spring - nothing else. I have pushed down on the spindle, but nothing seems to work. The height adjustment won't move, and the entire car raises off the stands...
It looks like I am the only one to ever experience this...
I am at my wits end. The Jack is 100% on the spring - nothing else. I have pushed down on the spindle, but nothing seems to work. The height adjustment won't move, and the entire car raises off the stands...
It looks like I am the only one to ever experience this...
The adjustment bolt could be frozen within the spring insert. That's happened to lots of people. Some have had to resort to removal of the spring to loosen the adjustment bolt. Don't force it. Apply PB BLASTER liberally. I filled up the little trough above the spring that surrounds the bolt. Allow it to sit overnight. If the lubricant has wicked below the spring, you'll know the adjustment bolt is fully lubricated.
The other common issue is that the adjustment bolt bushing is vulcanized to the control arm. Use more PB BLASTER and a metal putty knife to release the bushing from the control arm.
The adjustment bolt could be frozen within the spring insert. That's happened to lots of people. Some have had to resort to removal of the spring to loosen the adjustment bolt. Don't force it. Apply PB BLASTER liberally. I filled up the little trough above the spring that surrounds the bolt. Allow it to sit overnight. If the lubricant has wicked below the spring, you'll know the adjustment bolt is fully lubricated.
The other common issue is that the adjustment bolt bushing is vulcanized to the control arm. Use more PB BLASTER and a metal putty knife to release the bushing from the control arm.
When jacking on the spring, try to stay as close as you can to the bolt.
My car rose too until I split a 2x4 block in half. I seemed to get better leverage with the smaller block of wood, allowing a contact point closer to the end of the spring. 18k on the clock