flush mount taillight kits
You can get it for a fraction of the price at home depot or something.
Just my opinion.

and also as SCM_Crash said, i wasn't totally sold on the full "flush" look. and with every kit (DIY or otherwise), i wasn't too happy about trying to flush my taillights with the "curved" rear by using unequal length spacers from inside (near license plate) to outside.
so my design mind said that while i wanted to somewhat flush them somewhere between factory and fully flushed, i also wanted to maintain the "focus" of the lenses by using the same length spacers across all 8 mounting locations.
so i got 1/2" spacers (8) and 1/2" longer screws and essentially "closed the gap" by relocating the lenses 1/2" straight back.
i was looking for black anodized hardware but the only screws i could find were stainless panheads with the stainless finish so after i installed them, i took some touch-up paint and painted the screw heads and they look great.
just my .02.
peace,
rich
Just my opinion.


The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

I took the kit off and left my tailights stock. I wanted to flush them to keep the dirt out of the recession but now I don't really give a hoot.











Here are two different ways of doing the job:
Method 1:
Parts needed:
• 8 each ½” x ½” round poly spacers with .194” hole.
• 6 each ¼” x ½” round poly spacers with .194” hole.
• 8 each #8 x 2” panhead sms screws.
• 1 package 5/16” x 3/8” auto/marine closed cell foam gasket with sticky on one side.
• Black Sharpie pen.
Step 1 – remove screws from tail lights and carefully let them hang out of the opening by the wire harness.
Step 2 – using the Sharpie, color the heads of the #8 screws black. Push the tip of the pen into the Philips slots to cover the screw with color completely.
Step 3 – Install the foam gasket material onto the taillight housings where the lens meets the black part of the housing, sticking the gasket to the black housing portion.
Step 4 – On the two inboard taillights, install the screws through the holes on the housings and slide 1 each ½” spacer and 1 each ¼” spacer over the screws and slide the taillights back into the openings and tighten the screws.
Step 5 – On the two outboard taillights, repeat step 4 except on the outer most taillight screw only install a ½” spacer and then tighten the screws.
The difference between this installation guide and others is that the others used 1” spacers. When the 1” spacers were used, the top of the taillights stuck out a little on the top and just didn’t look like a factory install.
Method 2:
Parts needed:
• Six (6) 1” L x ½” W x .194 Hole Size Nylon Spacers ($4.77)
• Six (6) ¼” L x ½” W x .194 Hole Size Nylon Spacers ($3.42)
• #8 x 2” Zinc Pan Head Screws ($0.98)
• One Frost King Rubber Foam Weatherseal 3/8” W x 5/16” thick x 10’ long (adhesive backed). I got the black weatherstripping. ($3.98).
Simply unscrew the tail lights, clean the area, put the weatherstripping around the tail light (where the red casing meets the black casing of the light). Then insert new screws and spacers on the back side and screw them back into the mounting hole.
The two center lights get one 1” spacer on each screw.
The outside lights get three ¼” spacers on each of the outer most screw. ****
The inner screw on the outside most lights gets one 1” spacer.
Fit so the weatherstripping looks good and screw them back in.
*** - Life is simpler if you buy two (2) extra 1” spacers and cut ¼” off with a Dremel or hacksaw. Then you are not fighting three pieces when you want to take out your lights for detailing or whatever. Then eight (8) screws, eight (8) spacers. The outer shorter ones are easy to spot, but to make it even easier, I sprayed the two outer spacers with some enamel paint I had in the garage to really be able to tell the difference when working with them. And, you can save $1.83.
Just my opinion.

Think of it as factory option for "Frenched" out tail lights.
Its cool and custom looking, and free.
Andy















