How do you put jack stands under a C5
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 299
From: Cleburne Texas
How do you put jack stands under a C5
I like to change the oil on my cars and I just added a C5. I have my pucks, do I use 2 jacks, one on each side to raise the front or the rear of the car up first then placing a stand? Placing the rear jack stands the same as placing the fronts, out on the end of lower control arms? Thanks
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,995
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From: Spring Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
Personally, I raise one side of the car first, install a jack stand on the control arm. Then from the front of the car, jack it up from the center crossmember and secure a second jackstand (this way they're easier to keep level)
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
How I do it:
The car should now be level on all 4 stands.
Some people say it's wrong to place the stand directly on the crossmember. They use wood in between. I dont trust that with my life. It complicates things and can make the process dangerous. I've never had a problem placing the stands on the outsides of the crossmsmbers. I do make sure I get the stands away from the center of the crossmembers as much as possible.
Never lift the car from the center of a crossmember.
- Place jack with puck at the right side forward puck location and jack the car as high as the jack will go.
- Place jackstands under the right side of the front and rear crossmembers.
- Release the jack and allow the car to come to rest gently on the stands.
- Move the jack over to the left side forward puck location and jack the car up until it is just past level.
- Place jackstands under the left side of the front and rear crossmembers.
- Release the jack and allow the car to come to rest gently on the stands.
The car should now be level on all 4 stands.
Some people say it's wrong to place the stand directly on the crossmember. They use wood in between. I dont trust that with my life. It complicates things and can make the process dangerous. I've never had a problem placing the stands on the outsides of the crossmsmbers. I do make sure I get the stands away from the center of the crossmembers as much as possible.
Never lift the car from the center of a crossmember.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
Also note: To get all the oil to drain you need to have the rear of the car elevated slightly higher than the front. If you leave the rear on the ground and just raise the nose you will not get all the old oil to drain out.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Drive front two wheels up on to two, 2"x12"x24" boards
place jack under center of front cradle
lift slightly, but do not lift wheels off the ground
loosen lug nuts slightly, but do not remove on both front wheels
jack up front of car
place jack stands under each side of the front cradle
remove front wheels
low jack
move jack to back of car
place jack under center of rear cradle
jack slightly, do not get wheels off the ground
loose rear wheel lug nuts slightly, but do not remove
jack rear of car up
place jack stands under each side of cradle
remove rear wheels
repeat jacking front and rear, to raise or lower on jack stands
[
place jack under center of front cradle
lift slightly, but do not lift wheels off the ground
loosen lug nuts slightly, but do not remove on both front wheels
jack up front of car
place jack stands under each side of the front cradle
remove front wheels
low jack
move jack to back of car
place jack under center of rear cradle
jack slightly, do not get wheels off the ground
loose rear wheel lug nuts slightly, but do not remove
jack rear of car up
place jack stands under each side of cradle
remove rear wheels
repeat jacking front and rear, to raise or lower on jack stands
[
Last edited by AU N EGL; Mar 29, 2010 at 03:39 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9,599
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From: Palm Harbor not far from Sebring Florida
St. Jude Donor '11
Oldtimer
I always jack my C5 at the front crossmember with a short piece of 2x4 between the jack and the crossmember. I place the jack stands under the 2x4 and lower the jack down. I do the same in the rear. I also will place the jackstands under the framerails letting them contact the jacking pucks. I also jack it at the crossmember no matter where I place the stands.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: OC Calif
St. Jude Donor '10
I like to change the oil on my cars and I just added a C5. I have my pucks, do I use 2 jacks, one on each side to raise the front or the rear of the car up first then placing a stand? Placing the rear jack stands the same as placing the fronts, out on the end of lower control arms? Thanks
HERE'S SOME HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE GM MANUAL:
The GM Manual states or implies:
1. ‘Jack Stands’ should NOT be placed under the ‘frame rails’ (regardless of whether ‘hockey pucks’ are used or not).
2. A ‘hydraulic jack’ should NOT be placed directly under the CENTER of the ‘OPTIONAL’ front cross-member. The ‘Optional’ Front cross-member is FORWARD of the front fiberglass transverse spring and is the ‘optional’ front location for a ‘hydraulic jack’. By contrast, the ‘PREFERRED’ front location is to the REAR of the fiberglass transverse spring, immediately forward of the oil pan. This 'PREFERRED' cross-member can have a 'hydraulic Jack' placed directly under the center, however, doing so will most likely contact and may damage the oil pan/oil drain plug, so it is NOT advisable either.
3. A ‘hydraulic jack’ should NOT be placed directly under the CENTER of the rear cross-member to raise the rear of the car.
AND SOME MORE HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE GM MANUAL:
......‘Vehicle Jacking’ (‘Hydraulic Jack’, not to be confused with ‘Jack Stands’ or a ‘service lift’) implies the use of ‘hockey pucks’ front and rear by specifying the use of “2 ½ inch or smaller diameter lifting pads when ‘jacking’ the car via the ‘frame rails’........
.....For the FRONT, this ‘Vehicle Jacking’ section continues to specify the ‘Preferred’ Front Suspension cross-member as the one behind the fiberglass transverse spring, immediately forward of the oil pan. This cross-member can be lifted anywhere along its width (center to 13” off-center), with the preferred location at the outer 7 ½ inches (and in the middle of that outer 7 ½ inches).
.......For the REAR, Similarly specified is that a ‘hydraulic Jack’ should NOT be placed in the center, it should only be placed at the outer and rearward sweeping 5 ½ inches (of the overall 26 inch length cross-member)........
........further specifies that ‘Jack Stands’ should only be placed under the outer areas of the three previously mentioned cross-members. Also, a ‘block or pad’ should be placed between the jack stands and the vehicle. Lastly, make sure the ‘jack stands’ ‘block or pad’ span at least 2 cross-member ribs (i.e. side to side thin aluminum ridge).
IMORTANT !! The pictures below are not implying you 'LIFT' the car with the center 2x6 balanced on a floor jack. YOU NEED TO screw/nail the small pads onto the large pad.
I recommend 2 floor jacks, bring up both sides semi-evenly until you can place the jack stands/pads. The reason small pads are on the long board is to keep the 2 jack stands from lateral movement (side to side) while keeping weight off the center of the Aluminum Cradle.
Here's the link to the work that 'theadmiral94' did
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ting-pads.html
Last edited by socalman; Mar 29, 2010 at 05:45 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Each winter I check to assure my frame is square, and it is.
Last edited by AU N EGL; Mar 30, 2010 at 06:42 AM.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
If it's been a real issue, I'll have to re-think my method. Otherwise I feel safer without the wood. Placing the crossmember directly on the jackstand is far more sturdy IMO.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,738
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From: OC Calif
St. Jude Donor '10
Last edited by socalman; Mar 29, 2010 at 03:59 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: OC Calif
St. Jude Donor '10
Does anyone have any proof of the aluminum ever folding over on a crossmember from a jack stand? Has anyone even heard of it happenning or seen it?
If it's been a real issue, I'll have to re-think my method. Otherwise I feel safer without the wood. Placing the crossmember directly on the jackstand is far more sturdy IMO.
If it's been a real issue, I'll have to re-think my method. Otherwise I feel safer without the wood. Placing the crossmember directly on the jackstand is far more sturdy IMO.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
I can understand why we should not jack from the center of a crossmember. And I can understand why we should not attempt to place jackstands at the 4 puck locations, but until I see evidence of a crossmember damaged by a jackstand I just cannot understand why it is said to not place a stand directly on the crossmember ends (NOT in the center of the crossmember of course). Direct contact is always more stable and our cars are only 3,200lbs. That is 800 Lbs / jackstand. The aluminum ribs of the crossmember are thick enough to not fold over under that load, IMO.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
Done deal. Not trying to ruffle feathers. Just going by the info out there. Many believe you are not suppose to raise from the center of the cradles. Not from a safety standpoint as you will be placing jackstands, but from a damage standpoint?? I think better safe than sorry
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: OC Calif
St. Jude Donor '10
But we don't know what happenned in that instance. For all we know it could of been wood blocks placed oddly between the crossmember and jackstand that made it unstable and lead to the fall.
I can understand why we should not jack from the center of a crossmember. And I can understand why we should not attempt to place jackstands at the 4 puck locations, but until I see evidence of a crossmember damaged by a jackstand I just cannot understand why it is said to not place a stand directly on the crossmember ends (NOT in the center of the crossmember of course). Direct contact is always more stable and our cars are only 3,200lbs. That is 800 Lbs / jackstand. The aluminum ribs of the crossmember are thick enough to not fold over under that load, IMO.
I can understand why we should not jack from the center of a crossmember. And I can understand why we should not attempt to place jackstands at the 4 puck locations, but until I see evidence of a crossmember damaged by a jackstand I just cannot understand why it is said to not place a stand directly on the crossmember ends (NOT in the center of the crossmember of course). Direct contact is always more stable and our cars are only 3,200lbs. That is 800 Lbs / jackstand. The aluminum ribs of the crossmember are thick enough to not fold over under that load, IMO.
.....The THIRD SECTION ‘Supporting the Vehicle with Jack Stands’ first notes “Important: Do not place jack stands under the frame rails”.[/COLOR]
It further specifies that ‘Jack Stands’ should only be placed under the outer areas of the three previously mentioned cross-members. Also, a ‘block or pad’ should be placed between the jack stands and the vehicle. Lastly, make sure the ‘jack stands’ ‘block or pad’ span at least 2 cross-member ribs (i.e. side to side thin aluminum ridge).
Last edited by socalman; Mar 29, 2010 at 05:26 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,738
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From: OC Calif
St. Jude Donor '10
It is not wise to place half the weight of the car (1600 lbs) on a single point in the center of what is basically an aluminum bridge between the two steel frame rails. The engineers did not design it to support that load that way. That is why people say (and I agree) not to do it.
But, if you're going to go buy into one part of the what the engineers detailed, why not all of it?
To Anyone reading this thread:
I asked for this to be sticked because I think New Members should be able to find this information quickly, and from the Engineers that designed the GM Manual.
For those that want to 'believe' something else, that is your perogative, but I don't think 'less than' practices should be passed on.
I build Commercial Buildings for a living. I have a Structural Engineer that tells me how to build. When it comes to that same Structural Design, the Engineers at GM are the only ones that can tell us what the car and it's parts were designed to do when it comes to lifting.
Ever seen a 160' long roof truss in a 100,000 sq.ft. warehouse? It's made of 2x4s , the same you can buy at Home Depot, gang nailed together. Built in a system, they can hold tons of snow. But as an individual board, not much.
Same with the Metal ribs in the Cradles. Each piece is designed as part of a system and the ENTIRE SYSTEM is designed to hold the weight. Not just one of it's parts.
I say, better safe than sorry.....
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,682
Likes: 2
From: Plano Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
It is not wise to place half the weight of the car (1600 lbs) on a single point in the center of what is basically an aluminum bridge between the two steel frame rails. The engineers did not design it to support that load that way. That is why people say (and I agree) not to do it.
As far as the jack stands... someone needs to engineer a bracket for using between the crossmember and the jack stands.. one that will kind of V up or U up over the crossmember and at the jack stand side, have a couple cutout or indentation areas where the jack stand ends will firmly sit in and not allow any movement or slippage. If any engineers or vendors are listening, this would be a good money maker for you. Same for if you engineer a bracket for jacking to distribute the weight on the crossmember with a small indentation where the jack would sit and not allow for slippage as you jack the vehicle.
Last edited by RLYSLO; Mar 29, 2010 at 06:26 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: OC Calif
St. Jude Donor '10
If you had the same picture above with the pieces of wood on the crossmembers, only had a solid piece in the center, you should be able to use that to jack the car up. the solid piece across the crossmember should distribute the weight load.
As far as the jack stands... someone needs to engineer a bracket for using between the crossmember and the jack stands.. one that will kind of V up or U up over the crossmember and at the jack stand side, have a couple cutout or indentation areas where the jack stand ends will firmly sit in and not allow any movement or slippage. If any engineers or vendors are listening, this would be a good money maker for you. Same for if you engineer a bracket for jacking to distribute the weight on the crossmember with a small indentation where the jack would sit and not allow for slippage as you jack the vehicle.
As far as the jack stands... someone needs to engineer a bracket for using between the crossmember and the jack stands.. one that will kind of V up or U up over the crossmember and at the jack stand side, have a couple cutout or indentation areas where the jack stand ends will firmly sit in and not allow any movement or slippage. If any engineers or vendors are listening, this would be a good money maker for you. Same for if you engineer a bracket for jacking to distribute the weight on the crossmember with a small indentation where the jack would sit and not allow for slippage as you jack the vehicle.
The concept is to not put weight on the center, that's why you can't double up the boards when you jack it up (at least for the rear). GM states you can lift on the front in 2 places. One is in front of the leaf spring, and that area they state do NOT raise in the center. The other one behind the leaf spring you can lift anywhere, but it's not easy to get to from the front anyway.
I think someone posted a metal system that sells for around $45 sold at Summit racing.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,682
Likes: 2
From: Plano Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
The concept is to not put weight on the center, that's why you can't double up the boards when you jack it up (at least for the rear). GM states you can lift on the front in 2 places. One is in front of the leaf spring, and that area they state do NOT raise in the center. The other one behind the leaf spring you can lift anywhere, but it's not easy to get to from the front anyway.
I think someone posted a metal system that sells for around $45 sold at Summit racing.
I think someone posted a metal system that sells for around $45 sold at Summit racing.
Is the crossmember somehow not as strong in the middle? I don't believe that. I believe GM stated that so you don't put a small round jacking puck in the middle due to balance issues. I bet if you use a board across the whole thing and distribute the weight that you'll be absolutely fine. That keeps the vehicle balance and the weight distributed.
Last edited by RLYSLO; Mar 30, 2010 at 03:36 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: OC Calif
St. Jude Donor '10
What exactly is the difference between jacking it up via the boards on the sides of the crossmember (as in this picture) or placing a board all the way across (Center and all) and jacking it up?
Is the crossmember somehow not as strong in the middle? I don't believe that. I believe GM stated that so you don't put a small round jacking puck in the middle due to balance issues. I bet if you use a board across the whole thing and distribute the weight that you'll be absolutely fine. That keeps the vehicle balance and the weight distributed.
Is the crossmember somehow not as strong in the middle? I don't believe that. I believe GM stated that so you don't put a small round jacking puck in the middle due to balance issues. I bet if you use a board across the whole thing and distribute the weight that you'll be absolutely fine. That keeps the vehicle balance and the weight distributed.
If you put one solid board across the entire cradle and place a floor jack in the center, then you are still putting all the lifting weight on the center as you bring the car up.
GM recommends lifting only on the outer 6" of the cradles. You are to either place the jack on the outer 6" and lift (which would be impossible to place jack stands and usually the front end is too low to get a floor jack in there unless you start with some small wood ramps).
It's really simple to do this lift with 2 jacks. You only need one 'low profile' jack, even if your car is lowered (mine is). Once you lift one side, the other side comes up quite a bit, allowing my 30 year old 6" high floor jack to clear and then I lift both sides. Place the block system (don't forget to screw small blocks to full length board) on the stands, slide it in, drop the jacks and your done.
Lots of good reading here in 'theadmiral94's original thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ting-pads.html
Last edited by socalman; Mar 30, 2010 at 09:50 AM.