Shaner TB
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Instructor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 5
From: Olympia WA
Shaner TB
Just wanted to shout out about what a great experience I had dealing with Mark Shaner and switching out my stock LS1 TB for a ported. Easy to deal with, fantastic performance for the buck, and it still looks stock. This is my vote of confidence for Mark and his work.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,315
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From: Wa
Where did you get it,I'm in need of a 90mm ported TB,I see we live in the same town also.
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Glad you had a great experience.
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
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From: San Clemente CA
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
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Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2007
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
DIY Project!
I liked the epoxy work and the port job except for the fact that he doesn't do the "half-shaft mod" that is well known especially on ls1tech.com
You disassemble the unit and cut off the front side of the shaft so the air doesn't have to jump the speed bump at part or full throttle. It really helps with throttle response.
I also polished the whole thing... of course.
Here's some pics.
I forgot the size, but I believe it's a T20H torx bit you'll need. The "H" means the bit has a hollow center to fit the unusual variety of "no-tamper" torx bolts. Take your TB to the hardware store to make sure you get the right one on the 1st trip.
Take the TPS off, you will end up hammering this end to knock the shaft out the other side once the motor and blade is removed.
What you see when you take the motor off
The butterfly/blade comes out before you can remove the shaft assembly from the body, but I put the blade back in for this shot to show the speed bump one last time
The shaft was marked with marker before removing from the body. You want it so the part that's cut is still flush with the inner wall of the body once it's put back.
The speed bump is going in the trash.
This shows what it looks like after
With the front half missing, you have more length of screw sticking out back. Cut or grind off the excess.
Putting it back together. The spring end ends up in this little slot, there's no tension on it.
Make sure you put LOCTITE on so the little screws don't come loose from vibration and go inside your engine!!!
At part throttle you can see how this will help airflow big time.
Back together. This shows the nice epoxy work by Shaner.
Nice port work.
You disassemble the unit and cut off the front side of the shaft so the air doesn't have to jump the speed bump at part or full throttle. It really helps with throttle response.
I also polished the whole thing... of course.
Here's some pics.
I forgot the size, but I believe it's a T20H torx bit you'll need. The "H" means the bit has a hollow center to fit the unusual variety of "no-tamper" torx bolts. Take your TB to the hardware store to make sure you get the right one on the 1st trip.
Take the TPS off, you will end up hammering this end to knock the shaft out the other side once the motor and blade is removed.
What you see when you take the motor off
The butterfly/blade comes out before you can remove the shaft assembly from the body, but I put the blade back in for this shot to show the speed bump one last time
The shaft was marked with marker before removing from the body. You want it so the part that's cut is still flush with the inner wall of the body once it's put back.
The speed bump is going in the trash.
This shows what it looks like after
With the front half missing, you have more length of screw sticking out back. Cut or grind off the excess.
Putting it back together. The spring end ends up in this little slot, there's no tension on it.
Make sure you put LOCTITE on so the little screws don't come loose from vibration and go inside your engine!!!
At part throttle you can see how this will help airflow big time.
Back together. This shows the nice epoxy work by Shaner.
Nice port work.
. Great write up tho!
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,685
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
The only time I read of the issue was a guy that didn't use loctite.
If you use loctite there is no chance of it getting loose. Be scared if you want, but much to the contrary those screws will stay there for life.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,203
Likes: 0
My last LS1 had a Shaner as well with the same mod.... there are thousands of cars that have the half shaft mod with millions of miles combined.
The only time I read of the issue was a guy that didn't use loctite.
If you use loctite there is no chance of it getting loose. Be scared if you want, but much to the contrary those screws will stay there for life.
The only time I read of the issue was a guy that didn't use loctite.
If you use loctite there is no chance of it getting loose. Be scared if you want, but much to the contrary those screws will stay there for life.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
Mark is deffinately a cool guy. He lives here in arlington and always cool to talk to. If anyone has any doubts about dealing with him dont. Stand up guy for sure.
On a side note if anyone is looking a Shaner TB I have one for sale. I went to a 102mm setup.
On a side note if anyone is looking a Shaner TB I have one for sale. I went to a 102mm setup.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,877
Likes: 1
From: Ok! So you don't believe in conspiracies, but will you acknowledge the possibility of there being coordinated activities in secret places? Texas
Shaner does great work, from what I've gathered. As for the "half shaft mod", several port and polishers have stopped performing and recommending this mod because there are cases of the weakened shaft bending and deforming the blade especially in high airflow situations (e.g. forced induction). I have no knowlege of any such cases, but this is what I was told when I asked my well known p&p guy why he no longer performed the service.
AKA "The CLOWN"
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 6,261
Likes: 13
From: Chicago South Suburbs
PM me with the details and price, I am looking for better throttle responce. What mm is it and is it fully polished, do you need a stock on back?