Going to buy a TW....and not sure the difference between the CLICK kind and the REG type.....The click one is $28....the other which can be used at higher tension (only need 100lbs for wheels) is $60.........which should i go with??? thanks alot

 

Don't cheap out on a torque wrench, I use Craftsman microtorque myself, they're about $80 but you can catch them on sale for about $60. Get the better one and you can use it in the future. There are certain torque specs that have to be followed to the number such as clutch, pressure plate, header bolts, etc. or bad things can happen.

 

I also have a Craftsman 1/2 inch torque wrench which I've been very happy with for the past 5 years. Remember to turn your wrench back to "0" when you're finished with it each time to keep the it at maximum accuracy.

 

I have read bad things about the "clicks". The need to recalibrate and that dropping them knocks them out of sync. I just need one once or twice a year so I bought the old fashioned with the pointer.

 

I have two Craftsman micro-torque each has their own ranges. One covers ≈3-30Nm and the other goes from ≈30-210Nm.

 

I have the same as you, one is the 3/8" and the other is the 1/2".

I've seen them on sale for as low as $40 around Thanksgiving.

Do you know if the warranty covers any recalibrating?

 

Opps I forgot the drive size, yep we do. I'm not sure. I remember reading about the period for doing a recalibration but don't recall at the moment. I'm sure its somewhere on Google LOL. Probably needs to be sent off. I know they all leak, so keep them in the plastic case they come in.

Another good link (the inner workings): http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html
Interesting (wiki):

Click type torque wrenches are precise when properly calibrated—however the more complex mechanism can result in loss of calibration sooner than the beam type, where there is little to malfunction. Beam type torque wrenches are impossible to use in situations where the scale cannot be directly read—and these situations are common in automotive applications. The scale on a beam type wrench is prone to parallax error, as a result of the large distance between indicator arm and scale (on some older designs). There is also the issue of increased user error with the beam type—the torque has to be read at every use and the operator must use caution to apply loads only at the floating handle's pivot point. However, for inherent accuracy, the beam (P.A. Sturtevant / Chrysler Engineering) type wins hands-down[citation needed]: As long as the pointer is free to move, and rests at zero (or is bent to achieve this), 100% accuracy is inherent -- no matter how shoddy, rusty, dinged, etc., the tool may appear. Dual-beam or "flat" beam versions reduce the tendency for the pointer to rub, as do low-friction pointers.
For the click type, when not in use, the force acting on the spring should be removed by setting the scale to 20% of full scale in order to maintain the spring's strength. Never set a micrometer style torque wrench to zero as the internal mechanism requires a small amount of tension in order to prevent tool failure due to unwarranted tip block rotation. If a micrometer tool has been stored with the setting above 20% the tool should be set to 50% of full scale and exercised at least 5 times before being used. In the case of the beam type, there is no strain on the component that provides the reference force except when it is in use, therefore, accuracy is inherent.


Apparently Snap-On has a tester on their truck wall. If it's out it has to be sent somewhere to be calibrated. But seems they have testers.

 

I've got a Craftsman 1/2 drive torque wrench that provides an audible click when it hits the preset torque setting. Have had it for years and it does a great job for me. I don't recall the price, but it was definitely more than $50. I agree - don't go cheap on a torque wrench - you want the setting to be accurate.