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I took my door apart and the only thing that looks odd is that there is a fair amount of slack in the cable. I am looking to see if there is a cable adjustment. I have to go slow, it is about 90 degrees outside with lots of humitity. I'm loosing weight every time I go out there.
Just so everyone knows, mine only make the noise when it goes the first couple of inches down. It also seems very jerky. After that it seems ok. I'll keep posting as I make progress.
Ok, I found something and it seemed to make a difference. There is a zip tie that holds the widnow regulator cables together. Sperkins has a good image on his sale add. (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...-assembly.html). That zip tie has a tab that presses into a hole on the door's innner frame. Mine came out of the hole. By putting it back like it should have been it seemed to take some of the slack out of the cables.
Between that and some WD-40 (carefully applied to the cables. My window seems to be working 90% better. On a good note, if you do have to replace your regulator, the door has large openings. It looks to be much easier then other cars I've worked on. I think two beers and a friend, a couple screw drivers, a 30 torx and a 10mm socket...2 hours+/-. (this is a guess, I didn't actually have to replace mine....yet )
Ok, so I go out and pull off the interior of the door (broke one clip, so I figure that isn't too bad for my first time). When I get it off, I run the window up and down, and it made a slight pop and everything was good. I continued running it up and down for probably 8 times without the interior piece on. At this point I am feeling good about not having to do much of anything, and that whatever it was pretty much got back into place. However, when I put the interior part of the door back on, the grinding is back!
Ok, so I go out and pull off the interior of the door (broke one clip, so I figure that isn't too bad for my first time). When I get it off, I run the window up and down, and it made a slight pop and everything was good. I continued running it up and down for probably 8 times without the interior piece on. At this point I am feeling good about not having to do much of anything, and that whatever it was pretty much got back into place. However, when I put the interior part of the door back on, the grinding is back!
There you go, keep the interrior peice off for day to day, put it back on when you go to shows
There isn't much that would cause that. Make sure all the door track bolts are tight.(don't over tighten, you'll break that fiberglass). Then make sure the guides are in place and clean. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out if it works good without the door panel in place.
Check the cable pulleys too while you have the panel off. Had one on a guys car that was making all kinds of noise and the cable just came off the front pulley. Just something to check.
Check the cable pulleys too while you have the panel off. Had one on a guys car that was making all kinds of noise and the cable just came off the front pulley. Just something to check.
Thanks for the tip. I did check them and they all looked pretty good. No plastic or metal things laying around. Infact, I was surprised at how clean the inside of the doors were. Not even a significant amount of dirt. Most vehicles I've taken apart have leaves, bugs and other weird objects. These had dust.
I went a head and did some insulating while I was in there. The bass sounds much better. I'll eventually do the rest of the car. But since I had the doors apart, it was time.