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[Z06] Race Headers or Headers with AIR

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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 10:34 PM
  #1  
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Default Race Headers or Headers with AIR

I will be ordering my set of headers this week, hopefully by wednesday. I have the money but still contemplating on which brand- Kooks or ARH headers, of course i will be ordering the one's with the 1 7/8. Besides that issue- Would it be best to order my full lengths with the AIR connections or the Race Style ones ? Also if someone here can tell me - If i were to go with the Race Headers, then how would i go about deleting the AIR so i wont trigger a Code.

I really need some info on this soon please.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 02:06 AM
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Your local tuner can tune out the air pump codes you will get. The air tube/flange on every brand of header is known to crack and break off. Not all headers, but frequently enough throughout the various brands to be a good reason to order the race headers and tune out the air pump code. Plus then you get to pull the pump, associated plumbing, and hoses. The spark plugs become so easy to reach you'll be changing them for the fun of it.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:41 AM
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Seems, that when problems w/ welds occur is when the air lines are removed from system and the air tube is left on the header to just set there to vibrate, causing the weld to break. I dont believe you would have a problem if you were to order w/the tubes on the headers as long as you leave the air lines hooked up to them. So it all comes down to your decission of which way you plan on going with the system. By going with the 1 7/8", sounds as though your leaning for some serious HP? That being the case, if were me, I'd order w/out the air tubes. Good luck.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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I have LG Pro Long Tube headers and the AIR connectors cracked and eventually blew out. Save yourself the aggravation and deal with them before you install. I had mine removed and welded and this solved the problem. It's usually not a matter if but when they will crack.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by lbarnard
I have LG Pro Long Tube headers and the AIR connectors cracked and eventually blew out. Save yourself the aggravation and deal with them before you install. I had mine removed and welded and this solved the problem. It's usually not a matter if but when they will crack.
You failed to mention if the air tubes on the headers were hooked up or had the by pass plate bolted on. Ive had my LG Pro's on for allmost 8 years w/ air tubes connected. No Problems.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Seems, that when problems w/ welds occur is when the air lines are removed from system and the air tube is left on the header to just set there to vibrate, causing the weld to break. I dont believe you would have a problem if you were to order w/the tubes on the headers as long as you leave the air lines hooked up to them. So it all comes down to your decission of which way you plan on going with the system. By going with the 1 7/8", sounds as though your leaning for some serious HP? That being the case, if were me, I'd order w/out the air tubes. Good luck.
Well yeah, i am planning on ordering a set of heads and cam after the Full Lengths which is why im just going to order the 1 7/8. One more question - Once i have the Race style headers put on and remove the AIR pump and hoses, Wont i also have to plug up a port on the backside of the intake manifold? I got onto LS1 tech and it showed a picture of how the AIR connects from the exhaust manifold to the AIR pump - And then from the AIR pump to the back side of the Intake Manilfold. Most guys off of LS1 tech were plugging up that port on the backside of the intake manifold with a 1 3/8 Freeze Plug due to deleting the AIR pump. If anybody can help me out with this question to, I would appreciate it.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 01:44 AM
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There is no port on the back side of the LS1/6 manifold. There is a single 10mm bolt that can only be reached with a mid length 10 mm socket by an anorexic, double jointed midget. This bolt holds the pipe running from the driver's side to the passenger side. You can just cut the pipe short on both sides and cap both ends. (You cap it just so it doesn't leave a finger biter when you're working on other stuff) Then when your installing your new cam and heads and have to pull the manifold anyway you can take the bolt out easily.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
You failed to mention if the air tubes on the headers were hooked up or had the by pass plate bolted on. Ive had my LG Pro's on for allmost 8 years w/ air tubes connected. No Problems.
You are correct I did not have them hooked up. thanks for clarifying
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lbarnard
You are correct I did not have them hooked up. thanks for clarifying
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