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The vacuum from the brake booster vacuum line is strong enough that you won't spill any of the seafoam....even if you don't aim it right into the hose at first!! Lots of vacuum there will pull the liquid sideways!!
When I did mine it was recommended by seafoam to put full can in crank not less than 50 miles but they said they saw better results with at least 500, also one can in gas tank as with the ethanol in the mix now it takes a bit more to do it's job. As for the intake it took 2/3 can before the white smoke started to exit the exhaust as per instructions given to me, get hose put end on front pcv intake on rear side of throttle body, engine running at 2000 or so stick other side of hose into bottle when you see the smoke shut car off and wait at least 2 hours. Personally I waited 6 but my car has 130000 on it and wanted to let it soak good. Everyone has there own way.
When I had it street tuned they said there was no detonation issues at all which tells me it worked out great.
Good luck and it's worth it
I haven't used Seafoam using the PVC or brake booter line. But I use Chevron Techron through the tank, but when you mentioned Ethanol, I was in Home Depot yesterday, and i'm walking along to the garden area, and just before the power equipment is a stand or display. it's got three different size bottles on the racks and the product is called, "Ethanol Relief" I figure WTH, and I put on my glasses and read the lable. It seems that with Ethanol, garden equipment has trouble starting and in winter it is much more pronounced ?
All I can say is I've never seen a product like that for the lawn mower, Crazy ?
"Ethanol Relief" I figure WTH, and I put on my glasses and read the lable. It seems that with Ethanol, garder equipment has trouble starting and in winter it is much more pronounced ?
All I can say is I've never seen a product like that for the lawn mower, Crazy ?
Ethanol is reeking havoc in the northern states in garden equipment due to the seasonal use.
I use Seafoam in EVERY tank of fuel in my 150hp Yamaha outboard motor.
Ethanol attracts moisture, and the Seafoam counters that. Also, Ethanol kills seals and rubber.
In small engines, it eats carb diaphragms, etc!!
Ethanol is reeking havoc in the northern states in garden equipment due to the seasonal use.
I use Seafoam in EVERY tank of fuel in my 150hp Yamaha outboard motor.
Ethanol attracts moisture, and the Seafoam counters that. Also, Ethanol kills seals and rubber.
In small engines, it eats carb diaphragms, etc!!
I don't want to highjack this thread, But you know, years ago when then found out that MTBE was no good for us, and we started with this Ethanol stuff is just junk. Everytime I pi8ck up the paper there is some story about this crap. Is this the best way to get clean air?
If a smoke show equals proven results than I'll stick with using ATF over seafoam.
The smoke show has proven I applied the Seafoam correctly. My final proven results were no longer seeing a ~30 rwhp dip (@5500 rpm) on the dyno that was caused by the pre-detonation of the carbon buildup.
If I go take a picture of my engine bay from different angles, can someone photoshop where the Seafoam should be applied?
-Alex
Alex, locate your Throttle Body. It connects to the airbridge that goes to the MAF and air cleaner. Behind the TB on the passenger-side of the intake manifold is a fitting that connects to the PCV system. Disconnect the PCV valve hose at that point on the intake, stick on another hose (1/2" ID I think) and use this as your "suck point" for the SeaFoam.
Note, '04 vettes do not use a separate PCV valve, however the fitting is in the same place. You'll see a little hose that goes between the "valley pan" and the upper intake, all on the passenger side behind the TB. If this is too technical for you, perhaps you ought to consider having a friend help.