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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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Default 03 Won't Start

Hey guys,

Here's the deal: I was driving around today and parked my car. I went to start it no more than a minute later and it was idle'ing VERY rough. To the point it was going to shut off. I turned it off, let it sit for a second, turned it back on and it was the same situation. I was able to move it forward a bit, but the entire time it seemed like it was about to shut off. After I moved it into an open area away from traffic I went to start it again, but this time if I took my foot off the clutch it would shut off. Also, if I put it in gear it would shut off. (The engine was still idle'ing horrible, to the point i was surprised it even started). So I let it sit for a bit longer, turned the key, and it would turn over and shut off within 1 second no matter what I did. Now it won't even start at all. Its cranking over, but not starting. It seemed like no fuel is getting to the engine. I've had problems with the Column Lock message being displayed on the gauges but never suffered any effects from it. Hell, one time it went away for a year without even popping up. Question is, what could be causing my car to act like this? Is the column lock cutting off fuel to my engine possibly?

Thanks in advance guys...the tow ride sucked.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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B2587 & B2592.....f'ing column lock.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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question to anyone reading...when i go to order the Column lock Bypass it tells me it will not unlock the column if it has already been locked. if thats the case, how do I fix this problem since it is already locked???
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 10:49 PM
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Yes - GMs fix was to reprogram the computer to shut off the fuel if the column lock screws up, for safety. This can be re-programed back out by someone in the know ...

Insert key, Start yanking the steering wheel back & forth (left & right), then turn the key to unlock, this method may free up the stuck lock, and allow the CLB ( column lock bypass ) to be installed. repeated trys usually frees it up. also a weak battery can cause the stuck column lock to be more of a problem of not releasing, so fully charge up your battery, and try again. Some have said to disconnect the fully charged battery and rehook it up - may reset the the system for the better ...

This subject has be written about a 1000 times, see search. I've only told you the tip of the ice berg ...


and I could be wrong !!!

Good Luck
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cosmic Charlie
Yes - GMs fix was to reprogram the computer to shut off the fuel if the column lock screws up, for safety. This can be re-programed back out by someone in the know ...

Insert key, Start yanking the steering wheel back & forth (left & right), then turn the key to unlock, this method may free up the stuck lock, and allow the CLB ( column lock bypass ) to be installed. repeated trys usually frees it up. also a weak battery can cause the stuck column lock to be more of a problem of not releasing, so fully charge up your battery, and try again. Some have said to disconnect the fully charged battery and rehook it up - may reset the the system for the better ...

This subject has be written about a 1000 times, see search. I've only told you the tip of the ice berg ...


and I could be wrong !!!

Good Luck
lol I know all about the CLB issues. I already tired disconnecting the battery. No luck. I guess what I couldnt find in the search was what could be done AFTER the locking has occued. It's depressing to say the least lol. I guess re-programming the PCM may be my only hope..and lucky me, my GMPP warranty ran out a day ago.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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Maybe taking the dash apart and physically helping the lock slide free while the key is turned ... maybe your lock is sending a bad message to the computer, that it's still locked when it isn't, so manipulating the actual lock back & forth may make it register right (?)

just guessing

in the end you'll be the expert on this ... maybe some else knows here, give it a day ...
Good luck
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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[QUOTE=v03z06;1574731171]lol I know all about the CLB issues. I already tired disconnecting the battery. No luck. I guess what I couldnt find in the search was what could be done AFTER the locking has occued. It's depressing to say the least lol. I guess re-programming the PCM may be my only hope..and lucky me, my GMPP warranty ran out a day ago.[/QUOTE]

I bet GM will honor the fix. Try that route.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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Default Goodwill Policy

Just looked up some notes from way back when.

Goodwill is when GM agrees to fix a problem at their expense or partial, when out of warranty. Case by case judged on individual circumstances. They consider mileage, how out of warranty, if serviced @GM regularly, GM history etc.

They do their best for a fair judgement. Try this GM# 866-932-4368 (hope it's still good). A month out I'd say 50/50. A day out 100.

Good luck
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cor24vette
Just looked up some notes from way back when.

Goodwill is when GM agrees to fix a problem at their expense or partial, when out of warranty. Case by case judged on individual circumstances. They consider mileage, how out of warranty, if serviced @GM regularly, GM history etc.

They do their best for a fair judgement. Try this GM# 866-932-4368 (hope it's still good). A month out I'd say 50/50. A day out 100.

Good luck
wow some good news here. Sucks tomorrow is a Sunday. I have a friend of a friend who works for a dealer, he is gonna stop by and check it out, but I will be trying that number out tomorrow!
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 09:31 AM
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A0-LDCM : B2282, B2284, U1064
A1-RDCM : B2283, B2285,
BCM : B2587, 2592

It looks like the other main codes are battery related....this sounds a little much to just be a battery issue. But, at this point I can be wrong about anything lol...
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Were all the hodes History codes? H after the code? Were any Currect codes? C after the code. Were there a lot of other modules that had Unnnn codes? If so what others? Please post ALL the codes please.......
Those were all the codes. They were all H's. Sorry about that. Im gonna go pick up a new battery right now...figured its cheap enough to give it a shot. Thanks for the on-going help guys, its racking my brain
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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Well, battery didnt solve much. Crankin a hell of a lot faster now...but thats it. Ugh
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Do you have fuel pressure? What lb reading is it?

Do you have spark? Check fuse 13 in the engine compartment fuse box.

Two things needed for ignition, fuel and spark if the engine is turning over.
Fuse 13 looks good. When I turn the key I cant even get a read on the fuel pressure. Gauge doesn't move. Noticed something weird though, when I turn the key to the "on" position I hear a high pitched sound (like a sensor) going off somewhere in the center of the engine. After about 5 seconds it stops though
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by v03z06
wow some good news here. Sucks tomorrow is a Sunday. I have a friend of a friend who works for a dealer, he is gonna stop by and check it out, but I will be trying that number out tomorrow!
If you end up going to dlr they may offer the 50/50 deal. If so, call GM at the number, or new number if that one is bad. Fuel pump issues will be costly.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
No fuel pressure = no start. When you turn the key on the fuel pump should bring up pressure before you try to start the engine There is a relay (35 ) in the engine compartment fuse box. What is happening with the security light on the dash? Are you reading the codes with an external reader or through the built in one that displays them on the DIC???
The security light flashes for a few seconds then goes away like normal. I am reading through the DIC. I am trying to get a friend who works for a dealer over here to bring an external reader. Now I just got a "charge system fault" message on the DIC. The battery is reading 12.2...alternator problems maybe?

Originally Posted by cor24vette
If you end up going to dlr they may offer the 50/50 deal. If so, call GM at the number, or new number if that one is bad. Fuel pump issues will be costly.
Yeah I gave the # a dial last night and it seems like its still the right # but they were closed. I am going to call them 1st thing tomorrow. Only one day after the warranty expired so hopefully they'll feel for me lol
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7

As far as the charge system fault message, forget just about any error message until you get the car to run. They are just adding confusion to the process right now.
lol Yeah you're telling me. Thanks for all the help & time so far guys. I really appreciate you going out of your way to provide me with answers or possible solutions
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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Wow, so many problems with Corvette's, man my wallet just ran and hid after reading this!
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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Alright guys, good news is here...just went through my paperwork when I bought the car and my warranty is good until 12/27/10! The reason I thought it expired was because I got a letter to re-new my warranty saying it expired on 7/16...it was from one of the BS companies apparently. SO, the car will go to the dealer thanks to my GMPP.

I would like to thank everyone SO much for helping me out and troubleshooting with me. It means a lot that you guys would help a total stranger. Anyone of you ever come to upstate NY beer is on me!
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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Verdict is in : Fuel Pump.
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