'99 - Headlight Problem
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 221
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From: PHILADELPHIA PA
'99 - Headlight Problem
Hey Guys, hope you all are doing well!!!!
I am having an issue with Driverside headlight, it is no longer going up.
The round cylinder is spinning but it wont rise, I have been manually putting it up and locking it in place by pushing the latch to lock (if thats what you call it, kinda like you do to open up a ladder).
It is not making a grinding noise so I do not know if I need to replace any gears, I did research and see the thread pertaining to that.
After I manually lock it in and turn the lights off it does go down on its on, just wont come up.
Any info/assistance would be great!
Thanks fella's
I am having an issue with Driverside headlight, it is no longer going up.
The round cylinder is spinning but it wont rise, I have been manually putting it up and locking it in place by pushing the latch to lock (if thats what you call it, kinda like you do to open up a ladder).
It is not making a grinding noise so I do not know if I need to replace any gears, I did research and see the thread pertaining to that.
After I manually lock it in and turn the lights off it does go down on its on, just wont come up.
Any info/assistance would be great!
Thanks fella's
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
Likes: 87
From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
My guess and I could be wrong is that the gear is totally stripped and therefore not making any noise at all. The reason I'm hesitant is that normally you'd hear some grinding as the gear deteriorates. Once the teeth are gone its then silent.
I'd get a metal gear kit and strip it. Those who have done the job suggest doing both at the same time as you learn as you go along.
I'd get a metal gear kit and strip it. Those who have done the job suggest doing both at the same time as you learn as you go along.
Last edited by DeeGee; Aug 5, 2010 at 04:03 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 221
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From: PHILADELPHIA PA
Racer
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Waretown NJ
In most cases it's the black rubber and/or the inside of the gear that holds the black rubber not the gear teeth. In either case it's time for a rebuild. Rodney's brass gear is around $45 or you can get a plastic one with the black rubber insert for around $25 (eBay).
I just rebuilt one on the car instead of removing the entire headlight assembly.
I just rebuilt one on the car instead of removing the entire headlight assembly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 7
From: Iowa
yep, either the gear is totally stripped or maybe the arm has slipped off the key on the output of the gear/motor assembly. take off the black plastic surround around the headlight and see if you can look where the arm is attached to the bolt going out of the gear assembly. maybe the rotation of the shaft is enough to make gravity pull the door down but the friction without the key isn't enough to raise it? if that's the case you just need to push the arm back into place and tighten the 10mm bolt.
I've never heard of a gear that was so stripped that it didn't make any noise. any problems with it prior to this? does the motor on the non-working headlight run longer than than it takes for the other one to raise?
I've never heard of a gear that was so stripped that it didn't make any noise. any problems with it prior to this? does the motor on the non-working headlight run longer than than it takes for the other one to raise?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: PHILADELPHIA PA
yep, either the gear is totally stripped or maybe the arm has slipped off the key on the output of the gear/motor assembly. take off the black plastic surround around the headlight and see if you can look where the arm is attached to the bolt going out of the gear assembly. maybe the rotation of the shaft is enough to make gravity pull the door down but the friction without the key isn't enough to raise it? if that's the case you just need to push the arm back into place and tighten the 10mm bolt.
I've never heard of a gear that was so stripped that it didn't make any noise. any problems with it prior to this? does the motor on the non-working headlight run longer than than it takes for the other one to raise?
I've never heard of a gear that was so stripped that it didn't make any noise. any problems with it prior to this? does the motor on the non-working headlight run longer than than it takes for the other one to raise?
1st time I have had this issue. Yes, the motor on the non working headlight runs longer.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
Likes: 87
From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Run down to Headlight Gears in this link and you'll get all you need:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ngths-etc.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ngths-etc.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: PHILADELPHIA PA
In most cases it's the black rubber and/or the inside of the gear that holds the black rubber not the gear teeth. In either case it's time for a rebuild. Rodney's brass gear is around $45 or you can get a plastic one with the black rubber insert for around $25 (eBay).
I just rebuilt one on the car instead of removing the entire headlight assembly.
I just rebuilt one on the car instead of removing the entire headlight assembly.
You were correct on this one!
I got the part out the white plastic teeth looked fine, but there was all kinds of black broken rubber in there. I am ordering the brass gear today.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 221
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From: PHILADELPHIA PA
It was pretty hard (for me anyways) getting that part out without taking out the headlight assembly. I had very minimal space to work with. I may just take out the headlight assembly when I go to reinstall it, to give me some room to work with. I dont know how some people thought it was easy to do with the headlight assembly still intact.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Waretown NJ
I've done it both ways - for me it was faster to do it without removing the assembly. The trick is to have a 1/4" wrench for the 3 bolts – they just take time.
Just be careful to put the washers/spaces in place when you reassemble
Just be careful to put the washers/spaces in place when you reassemble
