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[Z06] z06 wont start.

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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:48 AM
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Default z06 wont start.

tried to start my 02 z the other day and nothing. push the clutch, turn the key and its almost as if im trying to start it without pushing the clutch. so i played with it for a while (THE CLUTCH) and it finaly started. go to start it a couple days later and it started but it read "charge fault system". so i turned it off and left it. tried to start it this morning and nothing. i have an amp with an after market head unit in it, could that be part of the problem. or could it be clutch related? thanks in advance for any help
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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Let's start with the obvious.....Is the battery fully charged?
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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way too little info.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by tlove32
Let's start with the obvious.....Is the battery fully charged?
I don't have a tester but the radio work and all the electrics seem to be working fine. I have been experiencing the excessive clutch dust and my clutch sticking to the floor.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RubenTrinidadz06
tried to start my 02 z the other day and nothing. push the clutch, turn the key and its almost as if im trying to start it without pushing the clutch. so i played with it for a while (THE CLUTCH) and it finaly started. go to start it a couple days later and it started but it read "charge fault system". so i turned it off and left it. tried to start it this morning and nothing. i have an amp with an after market head unit in it, could that be part of the problem. or could it be clutch related? thanks in advance for any help
ok, i will pull it out of you.......

age of battery, fully charged, trans. in neutral, did you disconnect amp, , daily driver, etc.....

by now you should know that the less you say the less we can help.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by imavettegirl
ok, i will pull it out of you.......

age of battery, fully charged, trans. in neutral, did you disconnect amp, , daily driver, etc.....

by now you should know that the less you say the less we can help.
not sure the age of the battery, but it doesnt look to old. theres no corosion on it, not sure if that means anything. i've only had the car for a year and it has 33k miles on it. cant tell if its fully charged ill try to get that info when i get home. the trans is stock and it was in neutral, i did not disconnect the amp i will try that. for mods..... it has a mild comp cam, lt headers, vararam intake, bullet exhaust and a dyno tune. if i sound like a nube its because im am. dont know to much about this stuff.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:26 PM
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Here is what I want you to try:

When you try to start the car and nothing happens, look at the clock and note the time. Leave key in the ignition but just turn it back to the off position. Wait at least three minutes and then try to start the car again. If it starts right up then the problem is with the damn VATS or ignition or PCM/BCM communications.

My experiences:

This issue has set codes in the past: B2721 or P1631.

I have a new CTEK charger attached to my optima red top and am going to experiment from here on out to see if it still does it with a fully charged battery. (at least here at home).

Also have to pick up my new key from the local chevy store: $54

Since I have already removed and cleaned and reinstalled the ignition switch two times which only eliminates the issue for a few dozen starts I will replace the switch next if needed. Even though I have verified the ohm from the pellet several times on it.

New starter just replaced as well when I put my new LS7 clutch kit in. (just in case).

My '01Z only has 35K on it as well.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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P1637 and p1638 generator L and F terminal circuit. Is what that thing read when I pluged it into my car. Did a search on here and I think it might b ground related.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:55 PM
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Yep, been all over my grounds too. Took them all off and retightened them after looking them over real close. I even wire brushed a few of them were possible.

Oh, the alternator takes a few seconds to kick on. What is the battery voltage on your car prior to starting and then how long before the alternator kicks the voltage up to about 14V?
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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Not sure. I'll be able to get my hands on a tester tomorow and I'll let u know
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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You can read the battery voltage using your on-board gauges. Use the buttons on the right hand side of the gauge cluster.....insert the key into the ignition and turn to the "ON" position, select button #2 labeled "gauges". You can scroll through til you see the battery voltage.

No tester needed.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 11:36 PM
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I had this issue when I first got my 03 Z. The problem happen to be that the someone put the negative battery terminal on wrong. It was loose and not making a great connection. Most of the time it would start, but sometimes not right away... A couple of tries while fiddling with it, and it would start again.

I ended up pulling the negative terminal, cleaning the contacts and putting it on nice and tight. It's been nearly 5 months since and I haven't had a single repeat visit of that gremlin. Try cleaning the battery terminal contacts and make sure they're nice a tight.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SCM_Crash
I had this issue when I first got my 03 Z. The problem happen to be that the someone put the negative battery terminal on wrong. It was loose and not making a great connection. Most of the time it would start, but sometimes not right away... A couple of tries while fiddling with it, and it would start again.

I ended up pulling the negative terminal, cleaning the contacts and putting it on nice and tight. It's been nearly 5 months since and I haven't had a single repeat visit of that gremlin. Try cleaning the battery terminal contacts and make sure they're nice a tight.
will do. thanks
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 10:13 AM
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I had the same problem when I had my car and to fix it I replaced the starter. When I took the original one off the ground was very loose and a post on the starter itself was hanging on by rust. Replace that and report back
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 01:34 PM
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its probably the original battery which is probably toast. Go to Walmart, purchase Optima Red Top battery. Done.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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Tighten your battery cables to 89 inch pounds per the FSM. You can do this by removing the hold down block on the bottom of the battery and moving the battery back toward the firewall. After troquing, reattach the hold down block. Apparently torque is critical in the C5s and C6s battery clamps.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the battery cables or you will risk cracking the battery case and suffering from the dreaded acid drip that will ruin the PCM and/or harness which lives directly below the battery....Yep, more GM forethought into that design

Well, the CTEK did not solve the issue. Let the car charge for over a day and the indicator lite was reading a full charge: DIC displays 11.8 volts and the car did not start. It set my favorite code again: P1631.

Picked up the key from chevy today and of course the car started right up three times. Will keep testing it and see what happens. Going to S.F. early next week for a few days so a long road trip will be a good test.
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To z06 wont start.

Old Aug 13, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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Was the security light on at all?
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Old Aug 14, 2010 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by golfinz
I had the same problem when I had my car and to fix it I replaced the starter. When I took the original one off the ground was very loose and a post on the starter itself was hanging on by rust. Replace that and report back
What should I b looking to spend with parts and labor
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Old Aug 14, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by SCM_Crash
Was the security light on at all?
yes i believe it was
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