Hey Guys,

I need a new clutch and I think I'm going to do it myself in a couple of weeks. I decided since I have to drop the drivetrain anyway, I'm going to upgrade to either a 3.90 or 4.10 diff (still trying to decide) while I'm down there.

Can you guys think of anything else I should do at the same time? Don't want to spend a lot more, but I want to do what makes sense...

Thanks!

 

I'm sure your planning on doing the throw out bearing but you should add a remote bleeder for the clutch fluid. you may want to look at your rear axle seals...leaky butt. might be the time to fix them.
good luck with the job. let us know how it goes...I'm gonna have to tackle this job in a few years too. there is a really good write up on replacing the clutch here. pm me if you want it.

 

When you do the clutch, be sure to install a new slave cylinder. It is very cheap insurance. I also would strongly recommend the remote slave cylinder bleeder assembly offered by a couple of the forum vendors. The remote will make your life much easier on the install.

 

I've heard that adding a remote bleeder is a good idea... any suggestions on the best place to get one? I'm planning on using this writeup as a guide, is this the one you have?
http://www.cajundude.com/dopeinstall.doc

 

I'm definitely planning on replacing the slave... Pretty cheap and no reason not to while I'm down there. Thanks!

 

While you are in there why not replace the wimpy stiffener plate with a better one. It makes a heck of a difference.

 

why not replace the master cylinder also?

 

Headers

 

Agree with all the posters above. I replaced: throw out bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder and installed a remote bleeder.

Go with ARP bolts. Do not reuse the old bolts and do not go with GM bolts. There was a thread about it a few weeks ago. The ARP bolts are worth the money.

Make sure you have a good torque wrench as well.

 

I'll look into this, where did you get yours?

I'm trying to decide between a spec stage 1 and an LS7 clutch kit. I've been told that an adjustable master cylinder isn't necessary. Why do you say I should replace it?

Not yet... I wish

Thanks, I'll look into the ARP bolts. Where did you get yours?

 

The diff will likely be as much as a set of nice, used headers.

 

If you use the cajundude writeup as a guide, there is one thing that you need to be careful with. If you do put some grease on the input shaft, just use a VERY thin film and then wipe it off. There will be enough left on the shaft to help with installation. Just be sure you don't get any at all on the clutch or inside the pressure plate. It will migrate to the disk surface.
I am looking for some dimensions on the bellhousing if you get a chance. I'll send a PM.

 

Torque Tube bushings while your in there.

 

Thanks for the tip. PM returned.

Do these go bad?

 

Clutch decision depends on how much power you are making and how you intend to use it. The lower diff gear will further stress these components.

When I did mine I was intending to leave the car stock so I bought a stock replacement clutch. I think I read at least one thread where a guy said he was making 500 HP and still using the stocker with no problems. I purchased the EXEDY 04173 OEM Replacement Clutch kit from Amazon. It actually had OEM LUK parts in the box and comes complete with flywheel. I also replaced the pilot bearing with a bushing since the one in my car had disintegrated. For that I used a NAPA part number 615-1161 bronze pilot bushing. As mentioned the slave cylinder should be replaced while you are in there. On my car the worn out pilot bearing had allowed the input shaft to flex enough to break the throw out bearing collar off the slave.

I have done over a 100 clutches on many different cars in my life. I have always painted the input shaft splines with a thin coat of anti seize. I have never had a clutch slipping problem from doing this. When you see the amount of rust on the splines you will wonder how the disc could slide on them. I have seen clutches stick and not release properly due to rust on the splines.

I would not do the job without going through the torque tube or mount as GM calls it. I thought my car had problems in that area and found a deal on a brand new one so I replaced that whole assembly in mine. If I ever have to do it again I'll go through the spare I now have before I pull the tranny. It has 2 rubber flex discs and 3 bearings that could wear and need replacing.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking I may do heads/cam eventually so I want something that will hold a little more than stock. I'm considering the LS7 or Spec Stage I. I'm leaning towards the Spec...

 

The pilot bearing is a small,but important part-if you mess it up while reinstalling the drivetrain,you get to do the whole job again in a couple of weeks! (Like I Did!)
Obviously,I'm a klutz,so on the second go-round,I installed a Kevlar/Composite pilot BUSHING from Jegs,and 6k+ miles later,It's working sweet!
The problem with messing up the pilot BEARING,is that when it scatters,it begins munching off the end of the propshaft,so you've gotta redo it soon,especially if the car gets driven a lot.(plus it makes some very unpleasant noises while it's eating away the propshaft)
The BUSHING (Kevlar or Bronze) is a lot more forgiving of misalignment during the reinstall process,and they will also tolerate a worn propshaft much better than a bearing.
just my 2 cents...

 

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it.

 

Just ordered clutch kit, flywheel, slave cylinder, pilot bearing, Tick remote speed bleeder, ARP bolts and a couple of tools I didn't have... looking forward to driving around without the clutch slipping after this weekend.