Z06 ownership has been interesting so far. On my long list of things iv'e found wrong, this is the newest thing. Im borrowing this picture from EBM_Z06.



On my car, the hose just sticks into the hole on the intake lid (vararam). I don't have the little elbow piece or the grommet like the picture shows. I have also been throwing p0410 for a while, and wonder if it is connected to this discovery. So what is that elbow piece called, and where can I get one? Thanks in advance!

 

that hose goes to the air pump, so yeah its probably connected, and the plastic piece and gromet are just an elbow and a gromet. I had to make one from stuff I found at the auto parts store, but im sure you can probably buy one somewhere.

 

I live out in the sticks and there are no real junkyards to speak of that would have a C5, so im guessing I gotta make one. Great...

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

You have a private message.

 

Awesome, thanks for the tip!

 

When I bought my z06 that hose and elbow was not connected to my blackwing filter and I was getting the same code fairly often. When I discovered where it was supposed to go I made the connection thinking it would fix the code but the frequency of it stayed the same as it was before. There is an air valve on each side of the engine that I got somewhat cleaner by spraying carb cleaner/wd40 into the hoses that connect to them. The code almost completely stopped occuring but I still get it thrown from time to time. I believe that if I remove the valves and clean them thoroughly it will take care of the code for good and plan on doing so when I get back from my deployment. A search should help you identify the valves or you can always ask. I believe there is a post that will guide you on the process of cleaning them. I'd take pictures of them but I am 8 hours ahead of where my car is!

Also, I ended up breaking the mentioned elbow connection one day during filter maintenance. I found a very close replacement at Lowes in the plumbing section for less than a dollar. I bought a few different ones and installed the one that was the best replacement right in the parking lot and walked back inside and returned the rest for the 5 dollars they were all worth.

-Cov

 

When I search for p0410 it seems like there is a lot of conflicting information on what the cause is. It sounds like both check valves would have had to gone bad at the same time for the code to be thrown. If only one was bad, a different number would pop up (cant remember what it is). Im trying to finish up painting my project car so this is way down low on my list of priorities. Why isn't there more hours in a day?

Thanks for the tip though, can't hurt to clean em out anyway!

 

I just had the infamous P0410 in my C5, so replaced both check valves, but that didn't solve the issue for me and I failed emissions (though they were both stuck open, so replacing was a good thing anyways.)

After disconnecting the AIR hose (near alternator) via plastic connector that joins 2 rubber hoses on the drivers side (see Bill Curlee's post here > http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...eck-valve.html) and starting a cold engine, I realized I wasn't getting air flow FROM the pump (coming from the front of car), but could hear the pump running fine.

I removed the driver's side headlight and inspected the thin vacuum line running the to shutoff valve-- it was vacuuming fine. That left 1 thing I hadn't checked, the shut off valve. The dealer wanted $65 for a new shutoff valve, but I figured I take a stab at fixing the old one if not beyond repair.

The shut off valve disassemble rather easily (6 tabs) and is comprised of 4 basic parts-- 2 plastic pieces that make up the shell, a spring inside to hold the valve close and the rubber/plastic diaphragm that actuates via vacuum pressure to open the valve.


The rubber/plastic diaphragm is what failed in my case. You can see by the next 2 pics that it has a hole in the center of the plastic portion (why?) and that allows the rubber to be stressed a bit during operation. Do this a few thousand times and you have the recipe for failure. IMO, there's no point of that hole except to ensure the part fails over time.



After thoroughly cleaning the diaphragm to remove any contaminants, I took a guitar pick (.5 mm) and trimmed it to about the size of a dime, maybe a tad smaller and fit that between the rubber and plastic (using the cracks in the rubber to my advantage to get it in place) and then used plastic weld (dual tube type found at any hardware store) to glue that in place from the plastic side. See pics below.



I allowed the glue to dry as per the instructions on the tube of glue, then reassembled the part.



Below is a pic of what mine looked like after repaired.


I reinstalled the pump and shutoff valve and hooked up the vacuum line and electrical and started the car to test and ensure everything was working properly before I put the headlight back in as not to have to remove it again if it wasn't right.

I cleared the error codes, drove the car a hundred miles or so, then took it in to emissions today and passed just fine. P0410 is gone as expected.

If I had to do this over again, I might have glued the guitar pick to the plastic side as not to cause any more stress on the already worn rubber portion or just not used one and simply filled the hole w/ the plastic weld glue.

I'm not a mechanic (tho enjoy wrenching on things) and encourage simply replacing the part due to the obvious risk of the glue coming unglued and possibly lodging in the vacuum line or being blown through the hoses towards the check valves, but offer my story as how I inexpensively remedied my P0410 issue to get my car through emissions.

Good luck, I hope this helps

 

Interesting ... haven't heard of the AIR pump going bad on the C5s yet. I'm wondering if some of the P1416 codes are due to a weak AIR pump or partially opening shutoff valve when the ECU calls for air injection. The P1416 code is set when the passenger side AIR check valve fails, but that run is much longer than the driver's side, so wondering if a weak AIR pump wouldn't get enough through the passenger plumbing.

 

I haven't heard of a pump going bad either, but I'd imagine it's possible. I also haven't had the pleasure of troubleshooting a P1416... yet.

Check valves don't "run" per se as they are a just a simple valve w/ a metal plate inside that allows air to flow in 1 direction-- TO the exhaust. They prevent HOT exhaust from back tracking (when pump is off) through the hoses and potentially burning up your pump.

There is 1 pump that indiscriminately feeds air to BOTH check valves, therefore the passenger side does NOT "run" longer than the other. See pic below, note where the "hose from AIR pump" piping splits for driver/passenger side. Arrows indicate direction of air flow.


Hope this helps, good luck!

 

Great instructions and pics!

 

The DTC P1416 is a very common issue. Just do a search for P1416 and you'll find a hundred threads about it. It's caused by the passenger side AIR check valve failing ... but, I'm also wondering if a weak AIR pump could also cause a P1416 because it doesn't push enough air down the long tube run going to the passenger side head port.

I'm in the process of replacing the passenger head check valve right now ... my intake is off in order to access and change the check valve. In the photo you posted, the gold check valve in not OEM (the OEM valve is black), so someone has changed that check valve, and it looks just like the aftermarket one I purchased. Is the check valve between the engine and firewall also gold colored on you car?

When I removed the original OEM check valve I did find a small broken off piece inside of it, and it looks like it had a lot of exhaust back flow build-up. Hopefully, it was the cause of my P1416. If the P1416 comes back after I replace the check valve, then I guess I'll have to start looking at the output volume of the air pump.

 

Both of mine were OEM (black) before I replaced both of them with the gold aftermarket (purchased from advanced auto) a few days ago. That passenger side one was a bear since I didn't remove my intake, just fuel rail and 1 bolt attached to some bracket that was in the way, and I could only turn the check valve 1/12th of a revolution at a time.

Try blowing air through either end on your new one, you'll notice it allows air to only flow one direction (at least it should.) Now try with an old one, if malfunctioning, it will either:If the P1416 only affects the passenger side, I would deduce that the passenger side check valve would be stuck closed-- just my own deduction and I could be wrong. Would probably be good to try to blow air through the long tube once you have the passenger check valve off just to ensure there isn't a blockage in that last section of tubing.

J

 

thank you!

 

Yes, the new gold check valve works well with the blow test. The original black one seemed to also work OK with a blow test once I got it off the car, but like I said earlier there was a few pieces of metal inside it. I think something was coming apart inside the valve. Maybe one of these broken off pieces inside was not allowing it to function correctly. Anyway, I'll see if I get P1416 again after it's back on the road. If I do see P1416 again, I'd think it would have to be low air pump volume. That's the only other thing that would allow not enough air down the passenger side head.

 

Wow some good posts in here, thanks everybody!

I assembled some various parts and made my own elbow piece. This is the longest I have gone without setting p0410 but now that I say that, I know the next time I start the car it will come up

 

Im a newby to this forum, I have thrown the po 410 also. My problem is I have no Vacuum signal to the air pump. When I search for the leak I seem to find it at a valve that I think is stuck open. It is located by the transaxle passengers side. does this sound plausible. Oh yeah the vents in the A/c dont work either? Looking to see if others have this issue also.

 

What damage will be done and how soon will it be done if the P0410 problem isn't fixed. I must drive my C5 2000 for a while before it can be fixed.