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[Z06] Sc vs na

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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Default Sc vs na

SC vs NA,It seems from what I read on the forum that a NA 550rwhp run about the same 1/4 mile times as a SC 650 rwhp.I'm looking to Mod the Z and trying to decide which way to go.I know elevation,heat are factors.What else is there to factor?
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 05:27 PM
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Ask in the FI section. I'd think the type of FI would make a difference, as well as the way it's set up. If you're talking about 1/4 mile performance, or road course,etc. would all be factors. Roots type SC versus centri, or turbocharging all make a difference on how the power gets to the ground. If your criteria is strictly racing, then you need answers from racers, which I'm not. Good luck.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 07:13 PM
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money. Probably alot more to do it na then fi
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 07:20 PM
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FYI, you will not get ANYwhere near 550whp NA out of an ls6, some have been lucky to get 500, but driveability severely suffers. To get ~550whp na, you would have to go with a stroked ls3 or ls7, and then you are in 15k range for power not to mention drivetrain, clutch, etc to support that power. Many vendors on here are doing superchargers installed for ~6500 and seeing 600whp all day. Of course tho, you still have the drivetrain and clutch issues.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by robsciam
money. Probably alot more to do it na then fi


NA will cost a heck of a lot more
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cmb396
FYI, you will not get ANYwhere near 550whp NA out of an ls6, some have been lucky to get 500, but driveability severely suffers. To get ~550whp na, you would have to go with a stroked ls3 or ls7, and then you are in 15k range for power not to mention drivetrain, clutch, etc to support that power. Many vendors on here are doing superchargers installed for ~6500 and seeing 600whp all day. Of course tho, you still have the drivetrain and clutch issues.
I would have to disagree with you. I'm at 470RWHP on a Mustang Dyno and a DynoJet with a CAM, Unported FAST 92, and LS2 Intake. No head work at all.

Ported Heads, Ported Fast Intake, and electric water pump and think it can be done. I have no drive-ability issues what so ever. 2002 Z06.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 03:08 AM
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Up to 600 rwhp I'd stay NA if it's within your budget. If you want a little more you can spray it, but if you want much over 800rwhp you need to look at FI.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 03:44 AM
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the reason is because you're comparing peak numbers and not avg power, which is what wins...IATs will also climb faster with FI and unless countered you're not making the same power after a couple gears as you did on the dyno in one gear
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SargeZ06
I would have to disagree with you. I'm at 470RWHP on a Mustang Dyno and a DynoJet with a CAM, Unported FAST 92, and LS2 Intake. No head work at all.

Ported Heads, Ported Fast Intake, and electric water pump and think it can be done. I have no drive-ability issues what so ever. 2002 Z06.
Sorry, but the dybno is really really really off.

No way that a stock heads cam LS2 Intake Fast 92 LS6 is putting 470rwhp down - perhaps the car has a very aggresive ehad porting job you are not aware of.

I don't believe the stock LS6 head will not flow enough to deliver that power.

There is a reason us early C5Z adopters that where seeking decent NA hp/torque went with 402, 422, 427 and 440ci. You need the displacement, the heads and the exhausts and 100mm throttle bodies to flow enough to exploit the cam needed to pull that kind of power.

All the 450+rwhp Ls6's have extreme cams and headwork done to support those numbers, unless LS6's behave differently in 2010 to the way they did in 2001, 2002 and 2003.

Last edited by RC45; Sep 15, 2010 at 04:50 AM.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 08:39 AM
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For simple 1/4 mile work, I would go F/I all the way. Cheaper, less driveline shock and most likely using race gas at the track anyway. If you are road-racing, N/A may be better suited to your needs and you can always spray a little on top for special occassions.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cmb396
FYI, you will not get ANYwhere near 550whp NA out of an ls6, some have been lucky to get 500, but driveability severely suffers. To get ~550whp na, you would have to go with a stroked ls3 or ls7, and then you are in 15k range for power not to mention drivetrain, clutch, etc to support that power. Many vendors on here are doing superchargers installed for ~6500 and seeing 600whp all day. Of course tho, you still have the drivetrain and clutch issues.
I think a well-built 402/408 could do 550rwhp for well under 15K and would also handle a 150-200shot if needed. I've actually discussed this with a couple vendors because it's something I am looking at doing and they were both confident this plan is do-able.

You will eventually build a forged engine for the boost anyways, so that makes it more of an application decision...
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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used supercharger kit... the best value.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ~Joshua
used supercharger kit... the best value.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 01:01 PM
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We did the math years ago and it is a wash. A decent F/I setup costs the same as a decent big cube N/A setup.

Youstill need heaps of cooling, transmission beefing up, bigger wheels tyres to hook, clutch beefing up, forged bottom end, heads etc etc.

You can get the setup built for about $16 to $20K or build it yourself for $10 to $14K saving on the labour.

A decent fast car costs money - a fast "slap stick" car is cheap but won't hold up for long.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SargeZ06
I would have to disagree with you. I'm at 470RWHP on a Mustang Dyno and a DynoJet with a CAM, Unported FAST 92, and LS2 Intake. No head work at all.

Ported Heads, Ported Fast Intake, and electric water pump and think it can be done. I have no drive-ability issues what so ever. 2002 Z06.
Sarge, I have to respectfully call bs on that number. No one has EVER made that power on a cam only car.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RC45
We did the math years ago and it is a wash. A decent F/I setup costs the same as a decent big cube N/A setup.

Youstill need heaps of cooling, transmission beefing up, bigger wheels tyres to hook, clutch beefing up, forged bottom end, heads etc etc.

You can get the setup built for about $16 to $20K or build it yourself for $10 to $14K saving on the labour.

A decent fast car costs money - a fast "slap stick" car is cheap but won't hold up for long.
Fast, Cheap, Reliable. Pick two.

RC, I haven't seen you post in quite a while. Good to see you here again.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MPM IV
Fast, Cheap, Reliable. Pick two.

RC, I haven't seen you post in quite a while. Good to see you here again.
Yeah - my car has been down for almost 18 months now with some electric gremlin, so I figure by joining in the chitchat I will get up the motivaiton to try chase donw the issue and get the beast up and running again
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