here are some goodies i just bought and some winter mods/maintenance etc.

just bought B&M short shifter(thanks fellow forum member)

bought c5 delrin **** (like it so far)

ordered wheel position sensor(damn active handling code hope this fixes it)

ordered the air cowl vent cover and air hood bumper seal (hope they work?)

ordered that special price black out 9 piece kit (only needed the reverse and front clear corners so might sell the other parts)

just did the front license plate mod and LOVE IT

just tinted the tails(VHT NIGHTSHADE wrks wonders and 3 coats of clear)

thinking about upgraded Radiator? all Aluminum ?

new stainless turbo pipes from STS

NEW upgraded metal top oil pump for turbos(this has upgraded internals, will be doing dual pump upgrade in summer prolly)

dry chargers for air filter elements to help keep them clean(i hope)
New OEM front center spoiler (mine was shot and beat up bad)

I plan on checking/changing these fluids (clutch,tranny, diff any DIY or links for these would be great as its always nice to have a guide if u have question and if anyone tried MTL REDLINE or royal purple or any type of syn oil for those)

ordering the pfadt tranny and engine mounts from STS (or whoever has best deal)

getting info on relocation kit for oil sender unit?
have to do new pushrods and maybe valve springs to go past my 7psi (and feel safe about it)
^ will have to do a new clutch and i want to go big so i dont have to worrry about it if i want to handle 800ft lbs torque
im still on stock zo6 clutch and it seems to be holding the power very well cuz i dont do burnouts and I dont do lots of dig reving past 3k and dumping clutch, i mainly do rolls (so that helps)
ive always used SPEC and had great luck but it was a 500ft lbs single disc carbon kevlar material in my audi TT seems some forum members have issues and some swear by them..a few of those bad issues could have been due to those arp bolts. but the stock flywheel bolts will work just fine(i mean buy new ones of course and use lock tight or blue threadlocker but they will hold just fine?)
so i want to hear some good bad and whats the best for the money..a whole kit is what id get (clutch disk,pressure plate,flywheel&bolts, new throwout bearing,slave cylinder, and the remote bleeder thing(no idea where to find this)

anyone wanna make ideas or suggestions feel free

 

What do you guys think of the coolant bypass tube for throttle body and a new alum radiator ?

 

Nice set of "things to do"

coolant bypass - only if you want to

radiator - absolutely. HP = heat...gotta keep things cool(er)

 

coolant bypass will not make one iota of difference.

 

haha gotta love the many websites that claim 5-10whp gain from that bypass tube...it was one of those well if i see the true benefit from this mod then ill do it...so anyone that wants to share their experiences with this mod feel free! i was gonna measure the intake temps and coolant temps before and after using hp tuners has anyone else done this?

 

also just did the rear letter black out kit and love the new look...its amazing how much different my car looks now that ive done these cosmetic mods...def set my Z apart from the rest.esp in my town

 

if you are going with a new radiator you should look at a unit that has an integrated oil cooler... my .02

 

oh forsure...silly thing is i have tons of horsepower now and my oil temps and coolant temps are right at stock but my IATs are super low gotta love the rear mount and FMIC setup and when i sprayed meth to just test the system the IATs were crazy LOW and changed my AF ratio a whole 1:0 ratio meaning say in boost i was at 11.8 with no meth....now in boost with meth spraying it richens it to 10.8...thats how much room you have to play which is quite a lot in terms of tuning and timing advance....any good sources for those radiators cuz ecklers is on crack with those prices haha

 

my torch red Z06 also has the blacked out letters and they do look good.

it also has the black panel at the bottom which really looks good on this color.

 

Just a helpful bit of info...

I have the B&M also. When you install the aftermarket shifter, be sure to get bolts a little longer. The stock bolts don't go down in the holes as far because the aftermarket base is thicker. After a few years I found my shifter loose, and found some stripped out bolts. I had to tap my holes in the top of the tranny and install longer bolts. Its in there good now...

Learn from my mishap...

Toque

 

they come with longer bolts for this purpose.

 

Mine did not....

Toque

 

Just a suggestion, but don't buy anything from Ecklers. Their prices and service is the worst I've dealt with during my Corvette tenure. The DeWitts radiator is a really good idea for anybody with FI, and it's something I want to do sometime, too. There's lots of clutches now that hold the power of a FI car, and I went with a twin disc RPS. It's fine, but is quite a bit stiffer than stock, at least with the Tick master. If I had a do over, I'd probably get a McCleod twin, which is supposed to be stock engagement feel. Mine is quite abrupt@ engagement, and took getting used to. I can't believe your stock clutch is still working at your power level. I've gotten lots of great used parts from other forum members, but I believe a clutch is one of the parts you need to buy new.

 

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they are very glossy and would be even more had i sanded after clearing them...only wetsanded before painting them with the VHT nightshade...ive always had great luck with this stuff...then some clear coat.....did three coats of each for a nice thick paint job that can be cleaned and waxed very easily

oh and ya i bought the b&B from a forum member but only cuz it was brand new in box and nothing was even opened..and yes came with new longer bolts and new gasket seal...its a lot beefier(love this word to describe stuff) just feels SOLID...huge difference from stock...havnt been able to drive the car yet...im sure its gonna be hella different...ill post some pics of my front license plate mod too

P.S i just got the big *** red service manuals two thick *** books bout 200 but got em for 120 shipped on ebay...had to fight for them hard to find on ebay and most vendors want 175 plus...

 

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cost about 30 bucks and 3 hrs of my time...very happy with the result and should def help feed the FMIC some nice cold air

also i side note...if you buy the one sheet from mcmasters make sure you make the correct size for what your cutting..i decided to do one inch from the top of the cover all around and did a great job except the screen that every one buys doesnt fit the way you want it to so the mesh pattern matches the others (fog light area) so my pattern is more at an angle cuz of how i had to cut the sheet to fit. just an FYI if you go .75 instead of an inch you will be fine as the 1 in was barely too big for the 12x12 screen
i used black weather seal adhesive to make the screen stay in place..you cant see it at all cuz where you would place it is basically top n bottom of screen inside the cover....hope this helps...anyone have questions fee free and ill help best i can...BTW a good dremel tool is how i do most of my cutting and cosmetic mods...best investment you can make..so many great attachments and ways to get things done quickly.

 

Got almost everything on this list done already lol. I wanna get those LED taillights. Looks
Like 300 bucks or 330? Depending who I order from? Anyone have any luck with these or have issues. I've heard you have to get a flasher for LED mod so they flash right ?...and it's around $70. ?