I will be getting heads and a mild cam soon, just trying to figure out what to get. I have a 02 Z which i just got in Aug with 25k miles bone stock. I will also be putting on kooks headers and an x-pipe at the same time so i keep the labor cost down ..... hopefully...

Thanks in advance for the help..

 

Will it be your daily driver?
Will it see any time at the track or strip?
What are your expectations for sound/feel at idle?
Do you have a specific peak hp number you're aiming to reach?
What's your budget?

 

Not a daily driver.
maybe once or twice at the tracks.
no expectations for sound and feel as of yet.
would like to get it up to around 500+ rwhp
ok budget until i sell my stang

 

It's not easy to hit the 500 mark without nitrous, forced induction, or increased displacement.

This guy did it though: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-500-rwhp.html

 

Way to many deals on blower installs right now to try and get 500whp with heads and cam. It won't happen without a lot of the right parts working together. It will cost much more then a simple blower install. You wont even need headers to get 500whp with a kit from a&a but you will need a clutch.

 

Dispite all the hype you hear from forums/owners, 500RWHP is really hard to achieve with stock displacement. Not if you want to drive it on the street alot, anyway. Of course, the numbers game is highly dependant on your dyno operator.

 

Yep... Just tell the dyno operator to set the dyno's altitude to 5000 ft, and the humidity to 100%. You'll get great numbers from the dyno. LOL


No, but really, a mild cam isn't going to give you even remotely 500RWHP, especially on stock cube. I would recommend an A&A kit or at least a heads/cam 6.2L swap.

 

I have a $12,000 408ci motor, with heads, big cam, etc and am just over 500 rwhp and 490 rwtq....

 

You can do 500 rwhp with stock CI & extremely civil manners, the problem for most is the cost & attention to detail required. I did it with a 228/228 113* cam, so very reasonable driving manners.

To get there you need to make sure you are working with the right shop or individual & the recipe is clear. I choose Tony Mamo @ AFR & followed most of his ideas to a T starting from his proven 346 build with a 224/228 that dyno'd consistently between 460 & 475 rhwp. Again Tony's initial build was not a pair of heads & a cam only....detail.

Phase II is the next part were most including myself have our heads in the sand. At that power level, not the dyno games as other are suggesting, the rest of the driveline will begin to fail, not if.....when & how quickly. So I'm currently doing my clutch & rear diff for the second time. For that part I'm paying more than double as I should for not listening & doing correctly when they failed initially.

I don't see any economical ways to achieve the power level you are thinking as I believe any direction leads to a forged motor if you are going to use the power. There are many that will suggest a stock bottom end is fine, my guess would be that is driving style, not using the power, chit house luck maybe or a key board warrior.

Submittied respectfully by the school of hard knocks!

 

have seen a few LS6s in the 500 RWHP range.

Not cheap to build, maintain and reliability was measured in hours not miles. Pure blue printed and balanced race engines.

All used Lingenfelter 243 heads milled to 59, GM cup cam, Fast90/90 or LS6/TPIS90, dry sump, LG Pro LTs.

Not a tame engine, but a bloody rocket ship.