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Can someone breakdown the lowering thing.

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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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Default Can someone breakdown the lowering thing.

I had always thought that my car was lowered until I posted some pics with my new Z06 splash guards yesterday and had several comments from guys telling me to lower my car. I posted this morning and found out what the stock height is, so I went to the shop and measured mine and mine matches exactly what the stock height numbers are. So, now I am ready to lower mine.
Can someone break down what it means to lower on stock bolts? I've seen some guys say they lower their C5 on stock C6 bolts........what does that mean? How about the aftermarket bolts?
I don't want to slam mine, but I do want it about an inch or so lower.
Also, does an inch mess the alignment up so bad that it has to be re aligned?
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:10 AM
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When people talk about lowering their car with stock bolts, that is simply adjusting the ride height using the bolts that are at the four corners on the front and rear springs. If they say they lowered it with C6 bolts or longer bolts, that is simply saying they replaced the stock bolts for longer bolts to get the ride height even lower that with the stock bolts.

If you have the F45 suspension, the front bolts are hard to get to without removing the front shocks.

Here is a good link on lowering.

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbi...5_Lowering.htm

Last edited by BWF07; Dec 10, 2010 at 11:13 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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TR6speed is on the ball!!!

After I installed different size wheels and tires I noticed my "stance" wasn't what i wanted it to be. I adjusted the rear bolts only to even out the front to rear heights. If my car wasn't my daily driver I would lower the front and rear more.

I posted one of the comments suggesting to lower your car. I think the stock bolts will give you enough room to make it look "right". I actually kinda like those splash guards and may get some for my car and also space the wheels out further (currently have Z06 size wheels).
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 01:38 PM
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since the suspension is basically installed "upside down" you actually use longer bolts to increase the drop (which if you think logically about it seems to be the opposite of what you would assume).
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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You forgot one more aspect to lowering and that is some people will cut down or completely remove the bushings on the front bolts to get it to drop even further than the factory adjustable range will allow.

And yes lowering your car an inch will throw off your alignment bad enough to prematurely wear out your tires, usually on the inside edges, and with the cost of replacing tires it's wise to let the car setlle by driving a little bit and then heading to the alignment shop. You can also have a performance setup alignment done which gives your car a slightly more aggressive alignment, toe in, camber and etc.. Think more of a track car setup, but this too will also wear out tires sooner. Factory alignment settings are fair at best.

Last edited by MG RED 99; Dec 10, 2010 at 11:30 PM.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 09:20 PM
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i will have lowing bolts for sale soon, going back to stock in the rear. to low with sub, amp and junk
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by MG RED 99
Think more of a track car setup, but this too will also wear out tires sooner. Factory alignment settings are fair at best.
The cars ride and performance will change dramatically.

Lowing the front no more then 1" is perfect, and then the rear, so the cars rake is 1/2" to 3/8" is great. ( mesured to the frame rails or best to where the A-arms meet the frame. Measuing to the top of the wheel well arches in the fenders is not a good option, as they are seldom equal

then an aggressive wheel alignment.

Lowering more then 1" ie cutting bushings can be a huge performance change and not for the better.
shocks bottom out, turning may be a challenge without a bump steer kit.

Lowing looks cool as heck, but may not be the best for the car.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
The cars ride and performance will change dramatically.

Lowing the front no more then 1" is perfect, and then the rear, so the cars rake is 1/2" to 3/8" is great. ( mesured to the frame rails or best to where the A-arms meet the frame. Measuing to the top of the wheel well arches in the fenders is not a good option, as they are seldom equal

then an aggressive wheel alignment.

Lowering more then 1" ie cutting bushings can be a huge performance change and not for the better.
shocks bottom out, turning may be a challenge without a bump steer kit.

Lowing looks cool as heck, but may not be the best for the car.
Mine remains at stock height. I've debated back and forth about lowering but I read perspectives like yours above and it conveniences me to remain stock.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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crank the front bolts as far as they will go, then cut the bushing in the rear in half and re install (super easy) and you will get that stance youre looking for. Total time should be no more than 30 min, even for a beginner ;-)
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
The cars ride and performance will change dramatically.

Lowing the front no more then 1" is perfect, and then the rear, so the cars rake is 1/2" to 3/8" is great. ( mesured to the frame rails or best to where the A-arms meet the frame. Measuing to the top of the wheel well arches in the fenders is not a good option, as they are seldom equal

then an aggressive wheel alignment.

Lowering more then 1" ie cutting bushings can be a huge performance change and not for the better.
shocks bottom out, turning may be a challenge without a bump steer kit.

Lowing looks cool as heck, but may not be the best for the car.


I have to agree with the above statement. Let’s face it; those engineers that designed the C5 knew what they were doing. I realize that there is a little room to play with before you screw the ride and overall handling up my lowering it. They did design the ride height and ride quality for the overall general buying public, so I am sure there is that little area to play in. If you really need it low, than the best thing is to consult a good suspension shop and do it the right way so you still maintain some type of ride quality and it is still a safe suspension system.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:44 AM
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When one looks at the engineering suspension data and wind tunnel tests of the 1" lower front and appropriate rake plus aggressive alignment for road racing, no need to go any more.

But for street use, keeping the stock ride height would be best for suspension travel and ride quality.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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Can anyone confirm that lowering a Vette with the active handling option does in fact cause problems? I would like to go about an inch lower all round, but don't want to mess up the active handling.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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I lowered mine all the way on stock bolts without cutting anything. It rides just great, looks cooler and doesn't drag the nose anymore than normal on my local roads and streets. I think you can lower it as a trial to see if you like it or not. If not, you raise it back up. Nothing ventured and nothing lost. It comes right down to your local streets and your personal prospective. This one is an easy mod to evaluate for yourself.

And I left mine down after running the trial...
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by doublec4
Can anyone confirm that lowering a Vette with the active handling option does in fact cause problems? I would like to go about an inch lower all round, but don't want to mess up the active handling.
Good question........also, whats the deal with the magnetic ride that some of you guys are talking about??
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryBum
Good question........also, whats the deal with the magnetic ride that some of you guys are talking about??
Most likely, what the issue is, the magnetic ride as well as the Selective ride (F45), the shocks are computer controlled and if you lower the car, the shock travel will be less. Therefore when you hit a bump or drive a rough road, the computer tries to adjust for it and with the shock travel reduced, your ride will be harsher then if you are in the stock height.

I happen to have the F45 in my '01 and i have lowered it some and I do notice a slight difference.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by doublec4
Can anyone confirm that lowering a Vette with the active handling option does in fact cause problems? I would like to go about an inch lower all round, but don't want to mess up the active handling.
lowered mine with AH, no problems
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:56 PM
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lowered mine on the stock bolts, great look and seems to ride abit stiffer but i love it...
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by c5BlackBeauty
Mine remains at stock height. I've debated back and forth about lowering but I read perspectives like yours above and it conveniences me to remain stock.
Thier are certain degrees of lowering, and unless you slam it, are you going to experience some of the negatives. Lowering a half inch and not completely bottoming out the suspension on the factory bolts will result in a lowered look without the negatives in ride quality. In fact the handling will increase slightly up to a point. The nice thing is it can all be reversed if you don't like it.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Thanks guys,

when I said active handling, I meant to say the magnetic selective ride control

It's a nice option that I don't want to mess up!
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 11:43 AM
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Lowering it will make the ride slightly rougher, since there isn't as much travel available, but it's not bad. I have mine lowered on stock bolts with f45 selectable ride option.

I didn't take any pics with the new wheels before I lowered it, but here is a shot with my old wheels at stock height, then a shot lowered on stock bolts with the new wheels.




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