[Z06] Installing LTs tomorrow...
Anyone installed these on a C5Z? Any info is appreciated

good luck, post pics!!



Tom



Proper fit.
Are you reusing the stock manifold bolts.
Plug wires and the fact they may break of tear apart during removal.
Tune, if tuning, remove the air system also (if not an issue in your current state).
Get rid of the rear O2s.
Watchout for the ground wire on the driverside rear of the block. Do NOT break it, will become an issue.
Ensure your wires have good clearance from the tubes once reinstalled, OBX, especially the front tube on the passenger side, has a tendency of getting close/touching.
I would heat wrap the starter and all wires in the close region of the tubing. It gets really hot and you do not want to melt anything.
I do over protect things, but I want to be sure that nothing comes up down the road. I have done several LT jobs on my car(s) and others. These are just the few things I remember. I would go ahead and get a thicker tunnel plate for the install. I know you want to do it now, but get everything together and do it right the first time.
GO GATORS!
Micah
I bought the 1 3/4'' used... so it looks like they have been "pre dented" if you will haha.
I do not plan on reusing manifold bolts... what about the engine ground you were talking about? I need to remove it... or just work around it with caution.
Plugs and wires are new... so that shouldnt be an issue.
I bought the 1 3/4'' used... so it looks like they have been "pre dented" if you will haha.
I do not plan on reusing manifold bolts... what about the engine ground you were talking about? I need to remove it... or just work around it with caution.
Plugs and wires are new... so that shouldnt be an issue.
Steve
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts



I have always just purchased the kit that included the extended O2 Sensors.
Let us know how it goes.
Micah
All in all...the install was pretty decent. The driver side needs to go in from the bottom... and it takes 18.5 inches to get them in... not 18.4.... 18.5
. Use a center bolt to hold it in place, then place the gasket on the front and remove the center bolt and work your way back. As for the driver side... it will go in from the top. Make your life a ton easier and remove the starter and oil dip stick. Ive read a bunch on the pass. side being the hardest... but it seriously took less than 5 mins with the starter removed to get it in place. After its in... no problems.
I had to "notch" the tunnel plate for the O2s. Just used a dremel and cut out a 3"X5" section of the plate... worked great.
Biggest PITA was getting the catback to mate to the X... after a lot of 4 letter words...and a hammer... got it to work. Had to pick up some longer bolts for it... as the stock H is threaded and the OBX Xpipe isnt.
Also... Air tube on the pass. side... its at a different angle than the headers... just work it... it will go. OR.... just block it off and have it tuned out.
Very happy with the results... sounds great
Last edited by BPG; Dec 28, 2010 at 01:21 AM.



All in all...the install was pretty decent. The driver side needs to go in from the bottom... and it takes 18.5 inches to get them in... not 18.4.... 18.5
. Use a center bolt to hold it in place, then place the gasket on the front and remove the center bolt and work your way back. As for the driver side... it will go in from the top. Make your life a ton easier and remove the starter and oil dip stick. Ive read a bunch on the pass. side being the hardest... but it seriously took less than 5 mins with the starter removed to get it in place. After its in... no problems.
I had to "notch" the tunnel plate for the O2s. Just used a dremel and cut out a 3"X5" section of the plate... worked great.
Biggest PITA was getting the catback to mate to the X... after a lot of 4 letter words...and a hammer... got it to work. Had to pick up some longer bolts for it... as the stock H is threaded and the OBX Xpipe isnt.
Also... Air tube on the pass. side... its at a different angle than the headers... just work it... it will go. OR.... just block it off and have it tuned out.
Very happy with the results... sounds great

Nice work, just installed DYNATECHs with over road x-pipe on my Z a few weeks back.
Micah
All in all...the install was pretty decent. The driver side needs to go in from the bottom... and it takes 18.5 inches to get them in... not 18.4.... 18.5
. Use a center bolt to hold it in place, then place the gasket on the front and remove the center bolt and work your way back. As for the driver side... it will go in from the top. Make your life a ton easier and remove the starter and oil dip stick. Ive read a bunch on the pass. side being the hardest... but it seriously took less than 5 mins with the starter removed to get it in place. After its in... no problems.
I had to "notch" the tunnel plate for the O2s. Just used a dremel and cut out a 3"X5" section of the plate... worked great.
Biggest PITA was getting the catback to mate to the X... after a lot of 4 letter words...and a hammer... got it to work. Had to pick up some longer bolts for it... as the stock H is threaded and the OBX Xpipe isnt.
Also... Air tube on the pass. side... its at a different angle than the headers... just work it... it will go. OR.... just block it off and have it tuned out.
Very happy with the results... sounds great

Good job man. Feels great finishing up all on your own, huh?







