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[Z06] Installing LTs tomorrow...

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Old Dec 25, 2010 | 09:27 PM
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Default Installing LTs tomorrow...

Picked up a set of used OBX off road LTs and X. Gonna do the install in my garage... anything I should be expecting to be a pain in the butt? Wont have the car tuned for a few weeks... that going to be a problem?

Anyone installed these on a C5Z? Any info is appreciated
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Old Dec 25, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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Expect a check engine light on until you tune it due to no cats. Once its tuned, you should be good to go. What size primaries you goin with? As far as the install, I have no idea
good luck, post pics!!
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Old Dec 25, 2010 | 10:57 PM
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An archive search under "OBX Headers" should pay big dividends before the install. Biggest issues, if I remember correctly, are 02 sensor extensions and modifying the tunnel plate slightly for the sensors. Typical car stuff. GL

Tom
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 12:22 AM
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Fitting them into place was the only hard part for me, then again I have LGSuper pros which i think are bigger. Just take your time and be careful with your spark plugs. oh and I didnt get a tune and i was fine
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 12:48 AM
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Hopefully you have the install kit or an install kit. There are numerous little things to watchout for.

Proper fit.
Are you reusing the stock manifold bolts.
Plug wires and the fact they may break of tear apart during removal.
Tune, if tuning, remove the air system also (if not an issue in your current state).
Get rid of the rear O2s.
Watchout for the ground wire on the driverside rear of the block. Do NOT break it, will become an issue.
Ensure your wires have good clearance from the tubes once reinstalled, OBX, especially the front tube on the passenger side, has a tendency of getting close/touching.
I would heat wrap the starter and all wires in the close region of the tubing. It gets really hot and you do not want to melt anything.

I do over protect things, but I want to be sure that nothing comes up down the road. I have done several LT jobs on my car(s) and others. These are just the few things I remember. I would go ahead and get a thicker tunnel plate for the install. I know you want to do it now, but get everything together and do it right the first time.

GO GATORS!

Micah
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:59 AM
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Change the spark plugs while you're doing the install. Not changing my plugs left me with a lot of confusion and a nasty driving car that could have all been avoided by spending 20 bucks.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:06 AM
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Thanks everyone...

I bought the 1 3/4'' used... so it looks like they have been "pre dented" if you will haha.

I do not plan on reusing manifold bolts... what about the engine ground you were talking about? I need to remove it... or just work around it with caution.

Plugs and wires are new... so that shouldnt be an issue.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BPG
Thanks everyone...

I bought the 1 3/4'' used... so it looks like they have been "pre dented" if you will haha.

I do not plan on reusing manifold bolts... what about the engine ground you were talking about? I need to remove it... or just work around it with caution.

Plugs and wires are new... so that shouldnt be an issue.
The ground is on the drivers side it is a braided flat strap,unbolt from the engine block and after the headers are installed rebolt

Steve
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by machz800ps
The ground is on the drivers side it is a braided flat strap,unbolt from the engine block and after the headers are installed rebolt

Steve
will do. just found it a little bit ago...
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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Disconnect the battery at the beginning and pull the starter when the stock stuff is out. Pull the AIR tubing while you're at it. The first real project I did on my Z was LTs. After now having installed a supercharger and clutch, I look back and realize how simple and straight forward the LT install was. I wasn't able to that during or immediately after. GL.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by BPG
Plugs and wires are new... so that shouldnt be an issue.
In that case I'd recommend taking them out for the install. They crack easily. I destroyed one during my install and had to dig back into the bay to replace em.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 03:05 PM
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definately not trying to hijack a post, but im about to start an install myself. can you extend the factory O2 sensor wires, or will that change the readings in some way? im pretty good at soldering, etc.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Over-torque
definately not trying to hijack a post, but im about to start an install myself. can you extend the factory O2 sensor wires, or will that change the readings in some way? im pretty good at soldering, etc.
I don't see why you couldn't.

I have always just purchased the kit that included the extended O2 Sensors.

Let us know how it goes.

Micah
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 04:47 PM
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I extended the ones on my Camaro a couple years back. Didn't cause any problems. Surely it would be easier though to just spend the money on the ones that come with the LTs.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Over-torque
definately not trying to hijack a post, but im about to start an install myself. can you extend the factory O2 sensor wires, or will that change the readings in some way? im pretty good at soldering, etc.
I had the extensions... its about 10 inches difference from stock location to new location. you could use the rear O2s in the front location... but the connector would have to be changed. I ended up using the extensions and put the front in the front with the extensions and used a plug (18mm oil drail plug from a 1979 Challenger with 1.6ltr) to seal off the rear O2s. I had a buddy with HP Tuners turn the rears off.

All in all...the install was pretty decent. The driver side needs to go in from the bottom... and it takes 18.5 inches to get them in... not 18.4.... 18.5 . Use a center bolt to hold it in place, then place the gasket on the front and remove the center bolt and work your way back.

As for the driver side... it will go in from the top. Make your life a ton easier and remove the starter and oil dip stick. Ive read a bunch on the pass. side being the hardest... but it seriously took less than 5 mins with the starter removed to get it in place. After its in... no problems.

I had to "notch" the tunnel plate for the O2s. Just used a dremel and cut out a 3"X5" section of the plate... worked great.

Biggest PITA was getting the catback to mate to the X... after a lot of 4 letter words...and a hammer... got it to work. Had to pick up some longer bolts for it... as the stock H is threaded and the OBX Xpipe isnt.
Also... Air tube on the pass. side... its at a different angle than the headers... just work it... it will go. OR.... just block it off and have it tuned out.



Very happy with the results... sounds great

Last edited by BPG; Dec 28, 2010 at 01:21 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BPG
I had the extensions... its about 10 inches difference from stock location to new location. you could use the rear O2s in the front location... but the connector would have to be changed. I ended up using the extensions and put the front in the front with the extensions and used a plug (18mm oil drail plug from a 1979 Challenger with 1.6ltr) to seal off the rear O2s. I had a buddy with HP Tuners turn the rears off.

All in all...the install was pretty decent. The driver side needs to go in from the bottom... and it takes 18.5 inches to get them in... not 18.4.... 18.5 . Use a center bolt to hold it in place, then place the gasket on the front and remove the center bolt and work your way back.

As for the driver side... it will go in from the top. Make your life a ton easier and remove the starter and oil dip stick. Ive read a bunch on the pass. side being the hardest... but it seriously took less than 5 mins with the starter removed to get it in place. After its in... no problems.

I had to "notch" the tunnel plate for the O2s. Just used a dremel and cut out a 3"X5" section of the plate... worked great.

Biggest PITA was getting the catback to mate to the X... after a lot of 4 letter words...and a hammer... got it to work. Had to pick up some longer bolts for it... as the stock H is threaded and the OBX Xpipe isnt.
Also... Air tube on the pass. side... its at a different angle than the headers... just work it... it will go. OR.... just block it off and have it tuned out.



Very happy with the results... sounds great
Glad it went well. I will say this to EVERYONE. You CAN get your LTs through the top on both sides. Loosen the motor mount a bit and wedge it up with a pry bar and it drops in. I have done this several times with several different sets of LTs.

Nice work, just installed DYNATECHs with over road x-pipe on my Z a few weeks back.

Micah
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:01 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BPG
I had the extensions... its about 10 inches difference from stock location to new location. you could use the rear O2s in the front location... but the connector would have to be changed. I ended up using the extensions and put the front in the front with the extensions and used a plug (18mm oil drail plug from a 1979 Challenger with 1.6ltr) to seal off the rear O2s. I had a buddy with HP Tuners turn the rears off.

All in all...the install was pretty decent. The driver side needs to go in from the bottom... and it takes 18.5 inches to get them in... not 18.4.... 18.5 . Use a center bolt to hold it in place, then place the gasket on the front and remove the center bolt and work your way back.

As for the driver side... it will go in from the top. Make your life a ton easier and remove the starter and oil dip stick. Ive read a bunch on the pass. side being the hardest... but it seriously took less than 5 mins with the starter removed to get it in place. After its in... no problems.

I had to "notch" the tunnel plate for the O2s. Just used a dremel and cut out a 3"X5" section of the plate... worked great.

Biggest PITA was getting the catback to mate to the X... after a lot of 4 letter words...and a hammer... got it to work. Had to pick up some longer bolts for it... as the stock H is threaded and the OBX Xpipe isnt.
Also... Air tube on the pass. side... its at a different angle than the headers... just work it... it will go. OR.... just block it off and have it tuned out.



Very happy with the results... sounds great

Good job man. Feels great finishing up all on your own, huh?
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