Well, it's about time I rebuilt this trans before I can't get it into gear anymore. I am pretty decided that I want to go with an RPM Level V. Since the trans is coming out when that happens, seems as good a time as any to do a clutch and possibly a new flywheel.
I have been trying to gather info on this, but I'm still not sure what I should do. I have a couple lingering questions, for those of you with more knowledge than me:

About the transmission rebuild:
There are lots of upgrades available, but are there any that are more worthwhile than others? I've read that the upgraded main shaft is a good idea, but I don't know why. If anyone could fill me in on this, I would appreciate it.

About the clutch:
I will NOT start another "which clutch should I get" thread..... Although, since you're already reading this, which clutch should I get? The car will make a max of about 460 rwhp when I get around the the H/C swap, and it's a daily driver. Stock-like engagement would be ideal, since I do get stuck in traffic from time to time. From what I recall reading, there is ONE clutch that has smooth engagement, no noise, and great holding power... I also remember it was about 2x as much as other options. Anyone know which one I'm talking about?

About the flywheel:
Aluminum? I've had one on my old 911, and it made traffic a total PITA; however, I know this car is a completely different beast. The surplus of low-end torque should make that less of an issue. I really don't like the chatter though. Is it possible to get a clutch/flywheel combo that doesn't make all that noise? (in the perfect world, there would be a forum member somewhere nearby who would be kind enough to let me drive their car if they have a clutch/ aluminum flywheel combo they enjoyed).

Finally: Is there anything else I should be considering while I'm doing all of this? New slave? Should I replace any other parts while I'm doing all this?

I know this is a lengthy post, but I'm figuring that this will probably be another 3-4k dropped into my baby, so I want to make sure I do it right. You guys set me straight when I was doing my header purchase/install, so I'm turning to you again.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
-John

 

Also change the fuel filter if it's an '01-early '03.

It's really easy to get to with the drivetrain out.

Definately get new hydralics, perhaps also a remote bleeder from Tick Performance. It will make fluid flushes a snap.

Also maybe an Elite Engineering tunnel plate with heat shielding?

 

Definitely get new hydraulics. There isn't a better time than when everything is torn down to install a remote clutch bleeder. You'll bleed your clutch by yourself in 5 minutes from start to finish. A new throw out bearing should be mandatory. The GM ones are only about $15 or so.

New flywheel and pressure plate bolts are necessary. Go ARP and don't worry about it.

Get a shop manual if you don't already have one. Just the torque specs and sequences make it invaluable.

And since you'll have the shifter out, may as well dump the stock piece of crap if you haven't already.

If your O2 sensors are even close to being changed, just change them while they're out anyway. They about $80 a piece or so.

How about a thicker/insulated tunnel plate?

 

You don't state the miles on the car and that could have a factor in recommended replacements. Personally, when taking out the driveline for a tranny install - 1) Replace clutch and flywheel with C6 Zo6 and all associated hydraulics. It will give you near stock feel and plenty of holding power for your mods. 2) Add remote clutch bleeder kit. 3) think about O2 sensor replacement - mileage dependent though. 4) Fuel filter - easy to get to since everything else is out of the way

 

Check torque tube bearings & couplers while apart & diff for leaks.

 

This is why I ask first. Didn't even cross my mind to change the fuel filter.

The car is an '03 Z with just around 63K on the clock. O2 sensors would probably be a good idea, since I didn't change them when I did the header install, and occasionally I get that code that relates to the sensor not warming up fast enough.

Please keep the suggestions coming. All input is greatly appreciated.

 

May I recommend our Level 2 Premium Clutch Kit that includes a 100% Kevlar disc, Billet flywheel, new pilot bearing, slave cylinder and pressure plate/flywheel bolts for 839.96 shipped to your door. It will hold your future power plans and engage like stock because of the full face disc. Feel free to call me at the shop if you have any questions, Chris 817-750-2000

 

The Tick Remote Bleeder is a must.

 

http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...aulics/#master

 

Ever notice that everybody is basically repeating everything?

 

maybe consider a new tick / tilton master cylinder. maybe even consider installing it before the tranny / clutch install.....it just might solve your shifting issues.