[Z06] Clutch fix
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 680
Likes: 17
From: Moulton Alabama
Cruise-In 8-9-10-12 Veteran
Clutch fix
Ok, guys and gals, I am planning on getting my clutch changed this spring. I have an '01 Z06 without any mods. It does have 112,000 miles on it, but as far as I can tell the clutch does not slip at all. The pedal sticking to the floor at high RPM 3rd gear shift is driving me nuts. I have already PMed Ranger and got his thoughts and he says replace with the OEM clutch to alleviate aftermarket clutch issues. Why can this clutch not handle the torque in High 3rd gear shifts? Anyone found a cheaper solution rather than clutch change? My fluid is kept clean and I have changed the master cylinder to no avail. Tick Master says their master will fix this, but it is very expensive if it does not eliminate all issues of the sticking pedal. Not as expensive as a complete clutch change, but will it fix my problem? I plan on getting Van Doren to do this in Bowling Green rather than my Chevy Dealer. Just don't want Billy Bob at the dealership doing his first C5 clutch change because he has done truck clutches many a time!! Any other fixes for this issue besides Ranger method or clutch change?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
Short answer is, no. I don't know if installing a Tick MC will fix your 112k clutch problem, but I'd say you got your money's worth from your clutch. You can't cheap out of clutch problems, for the most part. BTW, just buying, and installing the Tick MC is WAY cheaper, and easier, than doing the whole clutch. My original clutch only had 16k miles on it, and the pedal stuck to the floor for the last 4k miles of it's life. I recommend upgrading, but I can tell you're pretty frugal, so I'd suggest the LS7 clutch upgrade. Costs about the same as the stock LS6, but is a lot better. Also, sorry, but you should also replace your master, and your slave at the same time. Big DIY, BTW.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
From: Long Island N.Y.
Pull out your clutch helper spring first...it's under your dash, that may help a little bit. Then flush your fluid a few times...not just 'Rangermod', a real flush. That may help, too.
But with your miles, it sounds like you've a new clutch to do.
I have both the TIC MC and a McLeod twin-disk....works like a dream on the roadcourse with 480rwhp!!!!
Good luck,
TomK
But with your miles, it sounds like you've a new clutch to do.
I have both the TIC MC and a McLeod twin-disk....works like a dream on the roadcourse with 480rwhp!!!!
Good luck,
TomK
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 50
From: Goldsboro NC
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi Texas
I too was having the problem with the sticking pedal after my cam install and tune. I just got the ACT single disk clutch kit from EnglandGreen and am in the proces of breaking it in now. I am hoping that this fixes the sticking pedal. It never stuck before, until the added power, so I am hoping that is what it is. Not looking forward to a master cylinder install really...
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 680
Likes: 17
From: Moulton Alabama
Cruise-In 8-9-10-12 Veteran
Short answer is, no. I don't know if installing a Tick MC will fix your 112k clutch problem, but I'd say you got your money's worth from your clutch. You can't cheap out of clutch problems, for the most part. BTW, just buying, and installing the Tick MC is WAY cheaper, and easier, than doing the whole clutch. My original clutch only had 16k miles on it, and the pedal stuck to the floor for the last 4k miles of it's life. I recommend upgrading, but I can tell you're pretty frugal, so I'd suggest the LS7 clutch upgrade. Costs about the same as the stock LS6, but is a lot better. Also, sorry, but you should also replace your master, and your slave at the same time. Big DIY, BTW.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 680
Likes: 17
From: Moulton Alabama
Cruise-In 8-9-10-12 Veteran
Pull out your clutch helper spring first...it's under your dash, that may help a little bit. Then flush your fluid a few times...not just 'Rangermod', a real flush. That may help, too.
But with your miles, it sounds like you've a new clutch to do.
I have both the TIC MC and a McLeod twin-disk....works like a dream on the roadcourse with 480rwhp!!!!
Good luck,
TomK
But with your miles, it sounds like you've a new clutch to do.
I have both the TIC MC and a McLeod twin-disk....works like a dream on the roadcourse with 480rwhp!!!!
Good luck,
TomK
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
Yep. He seems to have a heavy foot. 
Here's a pic of his pressure plate when I removed it. You can see in red the 6 tabs that broke off and one at the top that was ready to join them. The center circle shows the only two tabs that remained in the clutch assy - one of which was wedged in the fingers of the plate causing his shifting problem. One of them actually went through the inpsection cover.
Here's a pic of his pressure plate when I removed it. You can see in red the 6 tabs that broke off and one at the top that was ready to join them. The center circle shows the only two tabs that remained in the clutch assy - one of which was wedged in the fingers of the plate causing his shifting problem. One of them actually went through the inpsection cover.
Last edited by sperkins; Jan 28, 2011 at 12:29 AM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi Texas
Wow! That's crazy. Just to add note to the sticking issue that I was having, it appears to be gone with my new clutch kit. I still have the stock master cylinder. Did some high RPM 3rd gear pulls and shifts, and the clutch pedal did not stick!
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,321
Likes: 18
From: Columbus MS
Change the master cylinder first! Yes it's $300, but no matter what if you put in an after market clutch you will need it! Do this first then go from there! I'm getting ready to pick up a Tick as soon as I get my taxes back, I'm having the same issues the pedal gets very squishy and will stick to the floor during high RPM and fast shifting.
I have done the Ranger fluid changes several times, it helps but does not cure the problem and just gets worse after a few hard shifts.
I also had this same problem with my 2002 WS6, it was the master cylinder my friend bought it from me changed the clutch and slave and I told him it was the master cylinder and he needed a Tick. He did not listen until after he figured out that the clutch and slave change didn't cure it, then he finally bought the Tick problem solved.
I have done the Ranger fluid changes several times, it helps but does not cure the problem and just gets worse after a few hard shifts.
I also had this same problem with my 2002 WS6, it was the master cylinder my friend bought it from me changed the clutch and slave and I told him it was the master cylinder and he needed a Tick. He did not listen until after he figured out that the clutch and slave change didn't cure it, then he finally bought the Tick problem solved.
Last edited by BoostedEBZ06; Jan 28, 2011 at 02:57 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 50
From: Goldsboro NC
Change the master cylinder first! Yes it's $300, but no matter what if you put in an after market clutch you will need it! Do this first then go from there! I'm getting ready to pick up a Tick as soon as I get my taxes back, I'm having the same issues the pedal gets very squishy and will stick to the floor during high RPM and fast shifting.
I have done the Ranger fluid changes several times, it helps but does not cure the problem and just gets worse after a few hard shifts.
I also had this same problem with my 2002 WS6, it was the master cylinder my friend bought it from me changed the clutch and slave and I told him it was the master cylinder and he needed a Tick. He did not listen until after he figured out that the clutch and slave change didn't cure it, then he finally bought the Tick problem solved.
I have done the Ranger fluid changes several times, it helps but does not cure the problem and just gets worse after a few hard shifts.
I also had this same problem with my 2002 WS6, it was the master cylinder my friend bought it from me changed the clutch and slave and I told him it was the master cylinder and he needed a Tick. He did not listen until after he figured out that the clutch and slave change didn't cure it, then he finally bought the Tick problem solved.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 680
Likes: 17
From: Moulton Alabama
Cruise-In 8-9-10-12 Veteran
Yeh, I changed the master last summer with an OEM hoping this would help. I thinking the slave is bad due to the excessive dirty fluid when I bought the car. I can get away with it most times if I shift at or below 6000 RPM. Might as well change everything while I am in there. I think the LS6 or LS7 will grip fine for pretty much any of my aggressive impulses. The hydraulics, I am not sure about. Too late for the Ranger method to help mine. Fluid stays clean, just the high RPM pulls in 3rd suck!!!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 12,387
Likes: 2,909
From: Fort Worth, Texas
cant fully agree with you when you say you NEED a new master cylinder after a clutch replacement. Its good measure to do so but it may not be a must. I have monster stage 3 in my ZO6 and before that clutch found its way there i thought i needed a new MC. Only to find out that didnt solve my problem. My OEM MC woulda worked with this setup. Infact the MC that is in there now was ordered from AdvanceAuto
